Cylinder barrel paint...Alternatives to PJ1? (2013)

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H

Hegel

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Oct 8, 2008
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Hi guys,

I'm trying to find a decent alternative to PJ1 silver (it doesn't seem to be on sale anymore), since both the S type and SS have silver barrels.

I see Simoniz and Hycote both do an engine enamel. Are either of them any good?

Any recommendations?

All the best,

S
 
Engine paint rattle can is what I've settled on for a plain jane Commando like my Trixie. Prior Peel was weapons grade coated with GunKote, but similar and maybe better available on a search. New Peel is Black Body Emission coated by Swain, though others offer similar. Some powder coat- though that is hard to touch up d/t its thickness and does hinder some heat flow if pushing luck WOT in tail wind up hill loaded in dry hot air on low octane.
 
VHT CALIPER PAINT was recommended by others here, I got great results. High build mimics original coating very well.
 
I bought a couple different cans of silver paint, mostly the high temp variety. They all had a bit different look, so I just chose the one I liked. I was a bit worried about it and getting gas in it, because all the silver varieties seemed not very resistant. However, after I painted the barrels, it and it dried, I did put it in the oven for about an hour, it seems fine. I haven't had any problems with it. It's easy enough to touch up although I haven't. I wouldn't get wrought up about which one.

Dave
69S
 
I'm using Halfords VHT silver at the moment. It seems to stick ok but is not highly fuel resistant unless baked on.
 
I never bothered with oven baking my sprayed barrels figuring just runing would do it in short order anyway and did, does.
 
hobot said:
I never bothered with oven baking my sprayed barrels figuring just runing would do it in short order anyway and did, does.
Click to expand...


I just simply ran mine to cook it in too but I noticed a few chips where the cyl studs are after a while. I am using the VHT stuff. after a few rides its solid but before hand when it gets its first heat cycle it smells like hell and is wet!

Cheers,
 
Hi guys!

Thanks for your thoughts. The barrels are out for a rebore, in the mean time I'll get some cans and give them to the reburbisher. I could do the respray myself, but I don't have ideal conditions at home at the mo, they have a nice spray booth.


What sort of temperature should it baked at?


:)
 
The can of VHT in my garage says 200f for one hour. If I was to do it again I would bake it then allow it to cool then bake it again before bolting it up.

Don't touch it while its hot either, it melts right off!!
 
What sort of temperature should it baked at?
Click to expand...
Depends what you use but most hi temps will need an hour at 150C. That Halfords stuff leaves a dusty residue which can be wiped off without damaging the main coating. The cylinder never gets as hot as the head but I just let the engine heat do the job like Hobot says. Here's mine from 3 yrs ago with halfords hi temp.
Cylinder barrel paint...Alternatives to PJ1? (2013)
I've just re-done it but it was in pretty good nick, just a few chips here and there.
 
The problem with the "engine heat baking" method, is, you'll have grubby fingerprints and smeared paint from assembly. The baking hardens the paint, best done before trying to rub it off, oil solve it. 200F for an hour is a common one, read the label, the info is there for you.
 
Concours is correct, touch ups can be baked on the bike w/o smudging * but better let the paint dry good before handling, so I use the most versatile tool I own, a hair dryer outside, to keep peace with my kitchen owner. Ain't no "H" in hobot.

Cylinder barrel paint...Alternatives to PJ1? (2013)
 
hobot said:
Concours is correct, touch ups can be baked on the bike w/o smudging * but better let the paint dry good before handling, so I use the most versatile tool I own, a hair dryer outside, to keep peace with my kitchen owner. Ain't no "H" in hobot.

Cylinder barrel paint...Alternatives to PJ1? (2013)
Click to expand...
No worries...
Cylinder barrel paint...Alternatives to PJ1? (2013)
 
Aw man Contours I'm not man enough to have such privileges in home kitchen, after I responded to challenge, "Why did you ruin my oven!" "It was easier to ask forgiveness later than permission first" ---
 
Worth a post I think.
I did a bit of searching over the weekend to see what folk were using and ended up getting a can of VHT Barrel paint in gloss black.
Admittedly it was for my 110 mm bore DR but was so impressed I will blast and paint the 850 barrel with the same.
It got an hour in the fan oven last night so on it goes today after a bore prep.

Cylinder barrel paint...Alternatives to PJ1? (2013)


Cylinder barrel paint...Alternatives to PJ1? (2013)
 
Last edited:
Time Warp said:
Worth a post I think.
I did a bit of searching over the weekend to see what folk were using and ended up getting a can of VHT Barrel paint in gloss black.
Admittedly it was for my 110 mm bore DR but was so impressed I will blast and paint the 850 barrel with the same.
It got an hour in the fan oven last night so on it goes today after a bore prep.

View attachment 9021
Click to expand...
That looks a really good finish.

Dave
 
Cylinder barrel paint...Alternatives to PJ1? (2013)
Cylinder barrel paint...Alternatives to PJ1? (2013)
Cylinder barrel paint...Alternatives to PJ1? (2013)
hobot said:
Engine paint rattle can is what I've settled on for a plain jane Commando like my Trixie. Prior Peel was weapons grade coated with GunKote, but similar and maybe better available on a search. New Peel is Black Body Emission coated by Swain, though others offer similar. Some powder coat- though that is hard to touch up d/t its thickness and does hinder some heat flow if pushing luck WOT in tail wind up hill loaded in dry hot air on low octane.
Click to expand...



Gunkote for me! Not sure about silver though.preheat, apply then bake at 300*-349* for 1hr or more. I sandblast then go right to the coating procedure. After baking and cooling doing a full blown hot water Dawn scrub and clean out.

Then I send the cylinder out to get a bore job if needed. I do not want to have blast sand anywhere after the finished cylinder. Then of course I have to do the full clean and scrub job again.

bulletproof:) note buy two cans they are small, (but they do go a long way), attach a red spray straw to one of the spray head nozzles to spray into the recesses. Use the other for the flatter areas.


https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...s/gun-kote-oven-cure-gun-finish-prod1150.aspx
 
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