Thread lock on crank case to cylinder barrel studs

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Feb 26, 2022
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Hi all,

I am getting my MKIII bottom end back together and had a question about using locktite on the studs going into the top of the crank case to secure the cylinder barrels. I'd imagine it would be a good place to use something since they can't be retorqued once the barrel is in place. What would you guys recommend to use here?

Thanks,
Anthony

Thread lock on crank case to cylinder barrel studs
 
Have never used any thread lock on the engine studs and have rebuilt mine and a few other Norton's over 48+ years and I still using all my original studs and nuts, never had a stud come lose yet.
 
I always use Blue (medium) on all crankcase studs. It is very annoying when a nut gets stuck the stud and then the stud comes loose rather than the nut. Also, if using stainless steel studs, you either must use anti-seize or Locktite if you ever need to get the studs out and I don't consider anti-seize the best in that situation.

I also double nut them and put them in firmly - but don't over tighten!
 
What will you use for gasket sealant? And what did you use on the crankcase halves.
I have yet to rebuild my engine but one day it may need it
Thanks
Dennis
 
What will you use for gasket sealant? And what did you use on the crankcase halves.
I have yet to rebuild my engine but one day it may need it
Thanks
Dennis
For crank case halves a lot of people will recommend Threebond, Hondabond, or Yamabond as interchangeable options. They are a solvent based non-setting sealant. I used Permatex Motoseal, which is what's available locally for me and seems to be very similar.

Gasket sealant I haven't used much of to be honest, though I did buy some Permatex tacky gasket sealant today to install my CNW reed breather. Matt recommended to use a gasket sealer on the gaskets in his instructions and that seemed the best option in the store. It's a little messy but seemed to work ok.

Anthony
 
What will you use for gasket sealant? And what did you use on the crankcase halves.
I have yet to rebuild my engine but one day it may need it
Thanks
Dennis
Usually nothing on gaskets except when putting the head on an 850, I smear some RTV on the two 5/16" studs per AN's advice. I also out a VERY thin smear on both sides of the composite gaskets around the pushrod tunnels but make sure it is not on the fire rings. They sell/recommend: https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-details-2/18674 and I use that, but I doubt that it matters which RTV.

Sometimes when the gorillas have been at the timing cover, I'll use Copper Coat on both sides of a new gasket: https://a.co/d/cyMPrYz and let it dry before assembling. It seems to help, and the cover is no harder than usual to get off.

I'm different than others. I use Permatex Aviation Form A Gasket #3: https://a.co/d/h56dZnW Every motorcycle engine I've build in the past 52 years I've used the same thing. My Triumph 500 I build from junk in 1971. It never leaked and when I split the cases a few years ago, they came apart without problem and cleaned up with denatured alcohol. On the contrary, I took apart a Norton 750 engine last week that had some grey sealer. It took me three hours to split the cases that were leaking! I still don't have the old sealer off and there were chunks of it in the sump.
 
For crank case halves a lot of people will recommend Threebond, Hondabond, or Yamabond as interchangeable options. They are a solvent based non-setting sealant. I used Permatex Motoseal, which is what's available locally for me and seems to be very similar.

Gasket sealant I haven't used much of to be honest, though I did buy some Permatex tacky gasket sealant today to install my CNW reed breather. Matt recommended to use a gasket sealer on the gaskets in his instructions and that seemed the best option in the store. It's a little messy but seemed to work ok.

Anthony
For metal to metal joints ( my 850 had no gasket at the base when I tore it down) I use loctite 518. When there is a gasket I use the old standby, spray copper coat.
 
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