Cyclops LED

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I would be most worried about clearance at the back of the shell.

There's not a lot of room there (plus the switch at the top of the shell sticks way down).
 
Yes I have had one in my Commando for two riding seasons, approx. 2000 miles. I had no problem installing it in the standard headlight shell and I have had no problems with it since installation. The beam that is thrown out is very bright and I have had several riders tell me that the color, a blue tint is distinctive and very noticeable from a distance, all pluses for me. I recommend the light. It also uses less energy and since I also have an Alton electric starter the battery recharge rate is good.
 
Thank you for the response champ7fc.

What did you use for an H4 reflector?
Is your bike still wired positive ground? In which case, did you have to do anything to wire the headlight?

Stephen Hill
 
I'm betting you'll need the rectifier to be compatible with the positive earth ("If you have AC powered headlights, you will also need the optional rectifier shown" https://www.cyclopsadventuresports.com/ ... _p_85.html). The lamp I put in mine three years ago http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-CREE-LED-LA ... 0011.m1850 works with both, so it must be running an internal rectifier. However, it's only listed as 3000 lumens on low. See permanent-solution-dim-commando-headlight-t20361-45.html#p265392 for all the dirt. Ignore the links there for the bulb, as that seller no longer offers this lamp.

Nathan
 
Nater_Potater said:
I'm betting you'll need the rectifier to be compatible with the positive earth ("If you have AC powered headlights, you will also need the optional rectifier shown" https://www.cyclopsadventuresports.com/ ... _p_85.html). The lamp I put in mine three years ago http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-CREE-LED-LA ... 0011.m1850 works with both, so it must be running an internal rectifier. However, it's only listed as 3000 lumens on low. See permanent-solution-dim-commando-headlight-t20361-45.html#p265392 for all the dirt. Ignore the links there for the bulb, as that seller no longer offers this lamp.

Nathan
Click to expand...

I sure don't think you need the AC rectifier. I believe that is for bikes that don't have lights you want to add them to.
 
Sorry for the delay, positive ground is not a problem, the LED array is a direct plug in to the H4 PLUG. There is a control module in line with the array and the connector. The whole unit attaches to the shell just like an H4 bulb. The directions included are easy to follow. Good luck and safe riding. Craig
 
Just Installed it tonight. MUCH brighter than Halogen, these tired eyes welcome it. The headlight bucket is at maximum capacity though. While it only adds a little material I have several relays in there so it was tight.
 
Just to confirm, not polarity sensitive?
I have just changed my old bayonet globe retainer to a H4 system as I had a spare headlight and fitting from what is now my race bike.
I am keen to fit the Cyclops LED, currently running the halogen globe.
Regards Mike
 
I've used a Philips LumiLED H4 LED bulb in my 2013 Triumph Bonneville and really love it's output...even makes me more visible to traffic in full sun. It has flexible metallic thread ribbon as a heat soak so it's very good for fitting in tight lamp buckets. Here is a newer version of the same product (increased output):

https://www.ebay.com/itm/H4-9003-LE...ash=item362436ea22:g:zVsAAOSwYxBZ740F&vxp=mtr


Cyclops LED
 
1.3 lbs. ? Plug n' play.. how about old Brit bike polarity ? A 2013 bike would be a - ground plug n' play.
 
The fan-cooled types make a turbine-like whirring noise when the light is on and the motor is silent. I told one onlooker it was the fuel injection priming.:cool:
 
Torontonian said:
1.3 lbs. ? Plug n' play.. how about old Brit bike polarity ? A 2013 bike would be a - ground plug n' play.
Click to expand...
I'm sure "1.3lbs" is just the shipping weight...my setup was a few onces. The connector is a standard H4 3 prong plug...should be straight forward to make up a patch connector to swap polarity if needed.
 
I have put a couple of inquires to the Cyclops people, the reply was prompt and to the point - no waffle or hard sell.

I have vague recollections of asking about polarity problems and them saying it wouldn't cause problems.

Most electronic components run natively at 5v or less. You could email them and ask if a lower than nom.12v would matter. If not, it should not affect bulb brightness and would mean that the relays could go.
The switched current would be lower than a 60w halogen anyway, so one of the 2 way micro relays would be fine if you felt the need to preserve the lighting switches.

I just noticed they are now offering a 7000 lumen emitter in H4.
 
Tornado said:
I'm sure "1.3lbs" is just the shipping weight...my setup was a few onces. The connector is a standard H4 3 prong plug...should be straight forward to make up a patch connector to swap polarity if needed.
Click to expand...
Tell us all to swap polarity without blowups.
 
Fitted my CYCLOPS 3800 LUMEN LED to the Roadster, only change I had to make was changing from the original round bayonet fitting and lens to a H4 setup. Luckily had these in stock as the race bike was once a road bike and had this conversion. Still + earth(ground)
Pics show after conversion initially with a HALOGEN globe Low first then High beam, then the LED. Also Low then High Beams
No point in showing the original set up as no comparison to the other two.
Regards Mike
 

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Kewl. Did you need to do anything to the wire connections/hi/lo switch to run +ve Grnd?
 
No, when I converted from the old bayonet fitting to the H4 plug, all I did was swap wire for wire with bullet connectors.
The CYCLOPS comes with its own black box between the globe and the H4 plug. Just connect the 2 x H4 connectors, the one in the bike and the one on the CYCLOPS lead and you are good to go.
Less draw on the battery than the HALOGEN.
Regards Mike
 
Hi Mike,

did you get your cyclops from a local supplier?
Sounds tempting.
Cheers
Iain.
 
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