CUSH DRIVE REPLACING (2006)

Hey all i need some help i removed the rear wheel to find out that the cush drive rubbers were gone i have bought new ones and have been trying to fit them but in no way had any luck please tell me what were these blokes thinking and how do i get the hub and everything back together on my bike as the rubbuers wont stay in there holes and slip out on me?

Nasty...tight fit. There has to be a block on each side of the little stub on the brake drum, and I think there has to be a method as to which block goes left, and which right...but could be wrong. Maybe they are identical. Anyway....it might indeed be too difficult to get the stubs between the new blocks the first time, with the brake drum still on the bike...take the drum off the bike and force the stubs between the new blocks, on the workbench....rubber blocks will stay pretty good in place if the wheel is laying on it's side and you place the drum down on top and push it on. Once the blocks have been broken in by some use on the road...you will be able to remove/replace the wheel/hub from/onto the drum with the drum still in the swingarm, as instructed in that other thread...First time might be just plain too hard to do.... :wink:

yeah i have tried that but the slippery lil buggers just come out and ya right there is a right and a wrong the fat rubbers go to where the most forward pressure will be applied then the thin ones are at the back i guess i will just have to wrestle with it a lil more.

Go for it.......it'll fit.......somehow :wink:

Know the problem! Fat ones forward, with the flat side facing backwards, thinner ones back. A trick is to grease the insides so the tongues can slide in better and warm the rubbers (not in that order!) in hot water. You can get the wheel in without removing the drum, but it requires a fair bit of leverage to encourage the wheel to settle in and wangle the spacer into place - but it will go eventually. HTH
Mebbo

Once you have the rubbers sorted, use the wooden handle of a mallet or something similar to "pry" the wheel onto the brake drum paddles. Come from underneath the swigarm when you pry it over & make sure you are not levering on the aluminium disc that is screwed to the brake drum, else you may dent it & have a permanent reminder of how not to lever it next time you have to do it. If you lever it from underneath & accidentally chip the swingarm paint it will not be so noticable. Obviously it is best if you have the bike on the centrestand while doing this job.

Mebbo said:

Know the problem! Fat ones forward, with the flat side facing backwards, thinner ones back. A trick is to grease the insides so the tongues can slide in better and warm the rubbers (not in that order!) in hot water. You can get the wheel in without removing the drum, but it requires a fair bit of leverage to encourage the wheel to settle in and wangle the spacer into place - but it will go eventually. HTH
Mebbo

Click to expand...

How to determine forward..all 3 are the same order..?...

Littlefeat69 said:

How to determine forward..all 3 are the same order..?...

Click to expand...

?
Forward is the side the drive dog pushes against.

Put the fatter rubbers to the front of the bike when the hub slot is at 12:00.
Make sure the radius side on all the rubbers is away from the drive dogs/pins. (flat side against the pins)

Make sure the drive dogs are smooth with no damage, a little rubber grease on the drive dogs might help (Buy the rubber sets two at a time)

Time Warp said:

?
Forward is the side the drive dog pushes against.

Put the fatter rubbers to the front of the bike when the hub slot is at 12:00.
Make sure the radius side on all the rubbers is away from the drive dogs/pins. (flat side against the pins)

Make sure the drive dogs are smooth with no damage, a little rubber grease on the drive dogs might help (Buy the rubber sets two at a time)

Click to expand...

Tks so much