Crankshaft studs.

I know what is recommended. Although would like to know what riders, experts, owners might say regarding the RE USE of the STUDS & NUTS on the Crankshaft.
Your personal opinion matter.
What your thoughts on that?
Thank you.

i would change them ,providing suitable replacments are used, once torqued they stretch .. but ask Jim he's the man.

I had Mick Hemmings do my crank as i wanted to feel confident as i opened the trottle that it would stay together. He fitted new AN bolts an says they never give trouble. I have rebuilt car one peace cranks before but it was the fact that the crank flexes that put me off doing it myself and that you can't get at it with a torque wrench so its down to feel and experience. I would think it's just as possible to over torque the studs/bolts with may lead to failure as to under torque them. But with such high stresses its false economy not to fit good quality new ones. After all how much more would it cost if they fail.

toppy said:

you can't get at it with a torque wrench so its down to feel and experience.

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??

I've never had a problem with using a torque wrench on the crankshaft studs. I use an offset wrench adapter, and adjust the torque setting to correct for the additional length. I think that's a fairly standard practice in industry.

Ken

There's really only two places that need pretty exact and sufficient nip ups, the rod caps and crank cheek fasteners and as both are able to have bolt/stud stretch measured [except the deeper crank fasteners] best to measure both torque and stretch and then use the average torque value found for the couple-3 fasterners ya can't measure for sure. Tables show that for the size and materials of rod cap and crank fasteners target stretch is ~.006 to .0065", depending on your knowledge/experience and beliefs in vibrating thermal expansion with faith in factory manual & T-wrench accuracy. I have not found any grade of loctite still keeping nuts clamp force tight as later found not to need much force to re-nip or start removal but made full removal more a strain. So I use loctite red there but mainly to prevent full back off into spinning crank spaces but no faith at all loctite does anything to retain stretch and clamp force in critical fasteners.