Crack in Kickstart Shaft
- Thread starter ctsbc
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Nortons require full body weight applied and often with some downward momentum to boot, main thing that could damage is slamming down w/o the slack taken up by engaged ratchet against most resistance so no impact shock just pure torque thrust. A good sealed Combat will hardly let ya cross TDC until bored waiting on bleed down or a gung ho heave ho. I'm tickled to finally clear karmic block that no amount of prior kicking most of two months worked but surely aged the kicker mechanism. Ms Peel's new shaft looks like polished nickle plated bright steel alloy, not dull or dark with machining marks as some appear to be. What's up with that? I usually shop Baxter's Cycles so likely its source. Its a photogenic beauty if I ever snap shot it.
concours
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About the choices in replacement shafts... another post in the "wanted" section raises a question about the quality of the aftermarket part. Can anyone else chime in with some observations?
"by KSUWildcatFan » Thu Dec 29, 2011 12:25 pm
Those kick start shafts are a pain in the ass to find in GOOD, used condition without damage. I bought an aftermarket one (crap), two used ones (both crap), and finally gave up and bought a NOS one from Walridge. Do yourself a favor, save yourself the trouble, and just pay for a NOS part.
I obtained a nice used one but I believe it's from an Atlas or something (different spring hole location). It's in my spares bin for "just in case".
Best of luck to you!
-Jordan"
"by KSUWildcatFan » Thu Dec 29, 2011 12:25 pm
Those kick start shafts are a pain in the ass to find in GOOD, used condition without damage. I bought an aftermarket one (crap), two used ones (both crap), and finally gave up and bought a NOS one from Walridge. Do yourself a favor, save yourself the trouble, and just pay for a NOS part.
I obtained a nice used one but I believe it's from an Atlas or something (different spring hole location). It's in my spares bin for "just in case".
Best of luck to you!
-Jordan"
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concours said:
New from Old Britts is around $200. I wonder if Jordan got a non-Andover one?
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Gents,
I cracked one and bought a replacement that included the bronze bush. Broke right away.
The shafts are supposed to be case hardened like a lock shackle, but if the wall thickness is too thin, they are brittle and break. The original design had a big top-hat shaped bush, and the shaft wall was thick where the bush stepped down. All our gears and transmission shafts are case hardened, which is supposed to mean tough core, and hard brittle case. Manufacturing to spec on a complicated part like this one ain't what it used to be.
If the bush is already pressed in, send it back. The bush dimensions are in the factory manual, and it ought to look like a top hat with no lid.
If you weld (heat) the shaft you'll lose the case hardening, and then you'll have a mild-steel, dead soft shaft.
I cracked one and bought a replacement that included the bronze bush. Broke right away.
The shafts are supposed to be case hardened like a lock shackle, but if the wall thickness is too thin, they are brittle and break. The original design had a big top-hat shaped bush, and the shaft wall was thick where the bush stepped down. All our gears and transmission shafts are case hardened, which is supposed to mean tough core, and hard brittle case. Manufacturing to spec on a complicated part like this one ain't what it used to be.
If the bush is already pressed in, send it back. The bush dimensions are in the factory manual, and it ought to look like a top hat with no lid.
If you weld (heat) the shaft you'll lose the case hardening, and then you'll have a mild-steel, dead soft shaft.
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concours said:I just got a used one... no telling how many more kick cycles in it before it fails, lol, but it passed visual, dimensional and LP inspection. In to service it goes!
and SNOWBALL!
Can you explain how that stuff works?
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Concours
There is no cracks in that shaft.
We use LP in our industry. And that looks like a good one.
Cheers,
CNN
There is no cracks in that shaft.
We use LP in our industry. And that looks like a good one.
Cheers,
CNN
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Swooshdave
Liquid Penetrant is a non-destructive test method for checking cracks (sometimes hairline or hard to see by the naked eye examinations) It will become evident with LP.
(The red stuff )gets put on and left there to sit for a short time then it is removed from the surface. The developer (white stuff) gets sprayed on after, and then you wait again a short time. If there is a crack present then the developer will show the LP leach out of the crack and show its ugly head 8) (Clear as mud) http://talonndt.co.uk/introduction.htm
Regards,
CNN
Liquid Penetrant is a non-destructive test method for checking cracks (sometimes hairline or hard to see by the naked eye examinations) It will become evident with LP.
(The red stuff )gets put on and left there to sit for a short time then it is removed from the surface. The developer (white stuff) gets sprayed on after, and then you wait again a short time. If there is a crack present then the developer will show the LP leach out of the crack and show its ugly head 8) (Clear as mud) http://talonndt.co.uk/introduction.htm
Regards,
CNN
concours
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CanukNortonNut said:
Yup, thanks, that is the replacement I got, the cracked one is a few pages back. I just wanted to verify my old eyes aren't missing anything. I've rubbed lots of dye as well while performing ASME section III work. Avoid it as much as I can now, lol
Case hardened?
Seems like there are better choices.
How would anyone know these are supposed to be case hardened?
Is this info buried within the manual?
...and to what hardness at what depth?
This is asked with a friendly smile and no underlying motive whatsoever.
Inquiring minds desire to know.
All the best.
Seems like there are better choices.
How would anyone know these are supposed to be case hardened?
Is this info buried within the manual?
...and to what hardness at what depth?
This is asked with a friendly smile and no underlying motive whatsoever.
Inquiring minds desire to know.
All the best.
rvich
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swooshdave said:concours said:I just got a used one... no telling how many more kick cycles in it before it fails, lol, but it passed visual, dimensional and LP inspection. In to service it goes!
and SNOWBALL!
Can you explain how that stuff works?
Dave,
It is sort of like rolling something in flour to look for wet spots. So what I want to know is where to buy this stuff. I searched for some recently and discovered it isn't sitting on many shelves. I notice the cans say "industrial use only". So does this mean I have to buy it on the black market or what?
Russ
rvich said:
I have the old Magnacheck and Zyglo at the lab. It's been years since used for profit.
They are still available.
IIRC this stuff ain't cheap to purchase. MSC offers a kit but they are bandits on the best of days.
Shop around, we go outside now because of the litigious society we live in, the report is the cert.
Buy yourself a good head loop like OptiVISOR with 10X glass. Magnification alone reveals a lot on M/C parts.
All the best.
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DIY kits are available to check stuff before flying off on it. The cracks you look for are about the same size as a single thread of a spider's cob web not its catch web.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/t ... naflux.php
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/t ... naflux.php
rvich
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hobot said:DIY kits are available to check stuff before flying off on it. The cracks you look for are about the same size as a single thread of a spider's cob web not its catch web.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/t ... naflux.php
Thanks Hobot, sometimes it is a matter of figuring out what to search for. I found the same product at Miller Welding at a better price:
http://www.millerweldersales.com/produc ... ct_id=1611
But now that I have an idea of what to ask for I can probably have the local welding shop price it for me as well.
Russ
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