Cosentino Roadholder Upgrade

how are you limiting the travel of the slider? Just asking as a guy who has found many a bent 2MM dowel and lots of tiny dents on the valve bodies from those dowels.

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Surely it's the nuts that take the hit, the pins only limit the valve movement ?

Cash

Cash,
I have been into a bunch of front ends and I would say about one third of them have bent over dowels.
Just about all of them have the tiny dents at the contact points on the cups. This is why I provide new ones in my kits.

Hi norbsa,
I'm not saying it doesn't happen, though I don't ever remember seeing it, just the pin has nothing to do with stopping the forks over extending.

It would be nice to know what's causing it, heavy oil perhaps ?

Cash

norbsa,

I didn't mean to be so dismissive of your kit but the point I was trying to make is that it uses the same fixed orifice damping system that the stock Nortons do, although with increased travel and revised springing. I'm sure the system provides better performance than stock but there has been a lot of advances in suspension tech since Norton designed those forks and there is plenty more performance to be had by upgrading the damping even further. The cartridge I use has a top-out spring designed into body to eliminate the metal to metal contact and shock of topping out that bends the dowels in the original design. So besides not damaging the piston locating parts it also eliminates the top-out clunk on acceleration. So to answer your question, yes the damper rod controls overall travel, but it is designed with specific features to do this more effectively.

Chris

Jeandr said:

BrianK said:

Zackybilly, for what's it's worth, I ended up reducing the mains on my FCRs from the 152s they came with to 140s. Raised the needle clips a few notches as well. Here's what I ended up with (copied from another thread I participated in a while back):

Needles in position #2 (were #5 originally).

Slow fuel screws 2/3 turn out. I was getting some popping on the overrun at 1/2 turn, which 2/3 has mostly eliminated. I think a little
popping on especially "violent" overrun is a good thing. Could be wrong...

Slow air screws 2 turns out

Replaced main jets (originally #152s) with #140s, down from the #145s I had done last time around. Still seems not too lean at WOT, so all the better. May try 135s, but I think I'm close. (Note: I never did try the 135s. The 140s seem right.)

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I was on that page a few minutes ago I have to change my main jets too because my bike is running way too rich.

How about starting? What is your technique?

Jean

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Jean, hi. Sorry for not responding sooner. Just rediscovered this thread (and am afraid it's gonna cost me money I don't have, as these fork mods sound so great).

Anyway, zackybilly completely nailed the starting technique. Do not underestimate the need to dial up the idle - I crank that sucker up (which thankfully is so easy on the FCRs) and just back it off as it warms and the idle climbs (which happens fairly rapidly, so don't walk away, or your bike will!) Best - BrianK