Commando front brake.

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Steve Munro

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May 2, 2025
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I have fitted a Commando front brake, and Brake lever assembly to my A10 BSA. The lever assembly incorporates the Choke lever and has no provision for an adjuster. (unthreaded cable socket) I'm using a brake switched cable but can't get a cable to suit the setup. I need a cable that has 115 - 120mm of inner extending from the outer on the bottom end from the end of the outer cable adjuster to the center of the clevis pin. I have purchased 2 different cables, and both have been too long to get proper adjustment. The first one was way too long, and the last one was about 25mm too long to get a satisfactory adjustment. Does anyone know enough about the cables to advise where to get the correct one, or a genuine item with the 115-120mm of inner protruding the bottom end of the adjuster thread to the clevis pin center?
 
Stephen Hill said:
Consider shortening one of the long cables. In the "good old days" it was a fairly common procedure.
Click to expand...
i did this recently to a new clutch cable (inner)
Even with a new clutch, stack height shimmed to the finest tolerance and the adjustment bolt set to 1/4 turn out. the clutch lever adjuster on the bars is well over 50% of its travel out.... so i reduced the inner cable length 👍 :D
 
I am a real dill - when I shorten cables I usually try to solder them myself with a soldering iron. With the last clutch cable I installed, I gave it to my plumber friend who silver-soldered it with a torch. It is absolutely lovely.
 
Steve Munro said:
I have fitted a Commando front brake, and Brake lever assembly to my A10 BSA. The lever assembly incorporates the Choke lever and has no provision for an adjuster. (unthreaded cable socket) I'm using a brake switched cable but can't get a cable to suit the setup. I need a cable that has 115 - 120mm of inner extending from the outer on the bottom end from the end of the outer cable adjuster to the center of the clevis pin. I have purchased 2 different cables, and both have been too long to get proper adjustment. The first one was way too long, and the last one was about 25mm too long to get a satisfactory adjustment. Does anyone know enough about the cables to advise where to get the correct one, or a genuine item with the 115-120mm of inner protruding the bottom end of the adjuster thread to the clevis pin center?
Click to expand...
Can you fit a standard cable fit for a Commando front drum? That will have correct inner/out lengths if you are also using the commando lever. But you can also make up your own cables using proper methods...not rocket science. Check out loads of YouTube videos showing methods. Use proper solder used for plumb, not electrical type (should be 50/50 or 60/40 Tin to Lead ratio type).
 
I suggest many things must be a lot different these days. Commandos are 1960s motorcycles. In those days many more things might have been 'do it yourself'. It was half the fun of owning a motorcycle. In my job as a scientist, I often worked with young engineers. My last job in defence factories was with a design group. My boss was a 30 year old engineer and I was on contract. When I showed him my Seeley 850, all he could say was 'I am impressed'. I thought that was funny. I have worked with engineers for about 30 years. An engineering degree must be worth something. The mindset has changed. An engineer in the 19th century would have to be pretty good.
 
acotrel said:
I am a real dill - when I shorten cables I usually try to solder them myself with a soldering iron. With the last clutch cable I installed, I gave it to my plumber friend who silver-soldered it with a torch. It is absolutely lovely.
Click to expand...
Be aware that what is called silver solder in NZ and Australia is not what they call silver solder in the UK.

Our silver solder is 3.5 % silver and can be melted by a soldering iron. We use this for soldering stainless steel cable.

Theirs is what we call silver brazing rod or similar and melts at 600 C plus. This is not suitable for cables and the high temp will probably cause embrittlement of the wire and it will snap.
 
I use a solder pot, Low Dross Sn60/Pb40 bar solder, and Harris SCLF16 Stay Clean Liquid Solder Flux. Melts at 183-191C. Perfect joint every time and never have had a failure.
 
marshg246 said:
I use a solder pot, Low Dross Sn60/Pb40 bar solder, and Harris SCLF16 Stay Clean Liquid Solder Flux. Melts at 183-191C. Perfect joint every time and never have had a failure.
Click to expand...
Is this for stainless cable? We found the silver was necessary for stainless wire otherwise it would not stick.

60 / 40 tin lead doesn't work for us on stainless wire but I guess the Flux you list may change that. I don't know.

"Silver solder in New Zealand is primarily used for joining copper and copper alloys, as well as other metals like brass, stainless steel, and steel. It's a high-strength, lead-free solder, often chosen for its durability and ability to create strong, leak-proof joints."
 
Last edited:
johnm said:
Is this for stainless cable? We found the silver was necessary for stainless wire otherwise it would not stick.

60 / 40 tin lead doesn't work for us on stainless wire but I guess the Flux you list may change that. I don't know.

"Silver solder in New Zealand is primarily used for joining copper and copper alloys, as well as other metals like brass, stainless steel, and steel. It's a high-strength, lead-free solder, often chosen for its durability and ability to create strong, leak-proof joints."
Click to expand...
You need a special flux to solder stainless steel properly, adhesion, or ‘tinning’ is not governed by the solder type, but by the flux.

IMO normally available lead free solder is best for cables as it has a higher tin content which makes it stronger.

I use this flux for stainless cables:

www.castolin.com

EutecTor 157 Flux

A highly reactive flux for use primarily with stainless steels. It is formulated to dissolve the chromium oxide layer to promote improved wetting. Also very effective when soldering many of the copper-base alloys. Features and benefits Powerful deoxidizing action Safe, secure joints Wide...
www.castolin.com www.castolin.com
 
Fast Eddie said:
You need a special flux to solder stainless steel properly, adhesion, or ‘tinning’ is not governed by the solder type, but by the flux.

IMO normally available lead free solder is best for cables as it has a higher tin content which makes it stronger.

I use this flux for stainless cables:

www.castolin.com

EutecTor 157 Flux

A highly reactive flux for use primarily with stainless steels. It is formulated to dissolve the chromium oxide layer to promote improved wetting. Also very effective when soldering many of the copper-base alloys. Features and benefits Powerful deoxidizing action Safe, secure joints Wide...
www.castolin.com www.castolin.com
Click to expand...
Thanks. Seems neither of these two fluxes can be purchased in NZ. But I have maybe found an alternative.

I think I'll continue to use our "Silver solder" anyway as it has worked very well and I have a packet on my shelf. More expensive but I don't do many cables a year.

Thanks
 
johnm said:
Is this for stainless cable? We found the silver was necessary for stainless wire otherwise it would not stick.

60 / 40 tin lead doesn't work for us on stainless wire but I guess the Flux you list may change that. I don't know.

"Silver solder in New Zealand is primarily used for joining copper and copper alloys, as well as other metals like brass, stainless steel, and steel. It's a high-strength, lead-free solder, often chosen for its durability and ability to create strong, leak-proof joints."
Click to expand...
Yes, stainless.
 
Another option, not as manly as making your own, is to contact Venhill Cables. They will make yoy what you want.
 
My only thoughts on this thread relate to the advice to cut and re-solder on a nipple. I am reasonably confident in my own mechanical abilities, but I would not attempt to solder a nipple onto a brake cable (especially the front brake) as I’d always be worried it would let go. Other cables yes, but not brakes. Am I alone in this?
 
cliffa said:
My only thoughts on this thread relate to the advice to cut and re-solder on a nipple. I am reasonably confident in my own mechanical abilities, but I would not attempt to solder a nipple onto a brake cable (especially the front brake) as I’d always be worried it would let go. Other cables yes, but not brakes. Am I alone in this?
Click to expand...
I have done a number of brake cables and would have no qualms in doing more.
Just need to birdscage the cable inner properly and use high-tin solder. Not lead - electrical stuff is not good here.
By birdcaging, the spread of the cable inner strands prevents "pull-thru". The solder just holds the birdscage spread out. So @cliffa, it is not the solder holding the load.
There are specialised birdscaging tools, I see, but doing it yourself is not difficult.
Cheers
 
Last edited:
cliffa said:
My only thoughts on this thread relate to the advice to cut and re-solder on a nipple. I am reasonably confident in my own mechanical abilities, but I would not attempt to solder a nipple onto a brake cable (especially the front brake) as I’d always be worried it would let go. Other cables yes, but not brakes. Am I alone in this?
Click to expand...
My friends and I are the opposite. We do not trust anyone but our own cable manufacture.

I personally have had two commercial nipples pull through on my Commando (one a throttle and one a rear brake) and will not trust my life to some random person on the other side of the world.

We make the nipple properly with a small and larger hole drilled and then reverse each strand back to create a birds nest in the larger hole.

As Rob said the solder on the birdsnest maintains the larger balled shape so it cannot pull through the smaller hole.

We have raced bikes with cable activated brakes for around 50 years with no issues.
 


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