CNW starter

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Ok, it's the next day. This morning Matt calls me says he will send me an email with trouble shooting tips to try. So I go out to the shop to just see what I had done yesterday. I turn the key on, hit the button to see if it blows and the damn thing turns over like nothing was wrong!
I've heard about those Gremlins before but really never seen one until today.
As I am writing this they are probably out there right now messing with the wiring.
I'm going back to try it again
 
That's why I have a gremlin bell hanging from my bike. Seriously.
 
That's good news, but something must have changed e.g...

Have you washed the bike in the last couple of days and it's just dried out ?
Were the handlebars turned to the left or right when it blew fuses?
Was the bike on the centre stand and now it's not.
Were the lights in the on position and now they're not.
Did you simultaneously pat your head and rub your stomach, where as last time you rubbed your head and patted your stomach ?

I could go on, but you get my drift :rolleyes:.


Cheers,

cliffa
 
Got your drift. I tried everyones suggestions, no matter how wild they may be. The bell is on order and I am standing on 1 leg, patting my head and clucking like a chicken. And if that doesn't work I'll leave the bike on the street with the keys in it!
I think Matt and I have narrowed it down to the relay going bad
 
Relay - Yep, that was my original guess.

please do post some video of your starting ritual ;);)

Glad it's on the mend anyway.
 
SO... the "bad relay" fixed itself? ;)

I'm with Cliffa on this - something caused the problem. However, I disagree with him re the patting head/rubbing stomach advice. Swinging a dead cat around your head three times at midnight is the only sure cure for such problems.
 
swooshdave said:
What’s the rating on the relay?
Click to expand...
Don't know. the relay has "12v" and "40A".
Matt wrote me saying the 20amp fuse was right.
Looking right now at the parts stores for a diode less relay. So far no joy.
 
The reason I said to clean your starter switch contacts is that intermittent current from a corroded switch sends strong pulses instead of continuous steady flow of current. Your wire resistance changes due to current flow, so if you turn something on the wiring, fuse and fixture are all designed for the voltage and amperage of the continuous flow. If your switch has corroded you may get some weird behavior because of that shitty connection causing some pulsing that blows the fuse...

On a norton corroded switch contacts are normal maintenance check stuff when something is dodgey. (most often directionals)
 
A circuit diagram would help but I assume there isn't one available online?


Guido said:
Don't know. the relay has "12v" and "40A".
Matt wrote me saying the 20amp fuse was right.
Click to expand...

Is that "20A" the main fuse or an additional fuse?

Not knowing the exact wiring layout, if it is similar to other pre-engaged starter systems then only the relatively low relay operating current (from the handlebar starter button switch) should be using the 'main' fuse as the higher current feed to the relay (that powers the solenoid not the starter motor) should be coming either directly from the battery or, from a starter cable connection?
I would expect the starter solenoid current to momentarily reach about 15A-20A (during the starter drive gear engagement) then rapidly fall to approximately half (so 10A or less) once the starter motor begins turning.
 
Just woke from a nap.
The starter switch is a CNW supplied switch which is only a few months old. Came with the kit.
The wiring harness, which is supplied to just run the starter, is made by CNW.
The whole kit is on a dedicated circuit.
Matt is sending me a new relay. I was looking for a local shop to have one cuz I was going to go for a ride today.
Last week I was waiting for carb parts.
Today would have been perfect for a ride.
Oh well.
 
Went back out and the thing starts right up. I found a relay at auto zone without the diode. I totally forgot I had bought 2 of them last year for the horns. Now the battery is too low to start so it's on the charger now.
All I wanted to do was change the jets on my carbs. Then this whole mess happened. I'll put the new relay in after the battery reaches full charge. The starting ritual is nothing big. The carbs are PWK's from JS Motorsports. Lift the enricher and off she goes.
Everyone has been such a great help. Thanks. Guido
 
Someone asked earlier if the relay was replaceable. The short answer is that anything with a part or serial number can be replaced and probably does break or wear out. When I was in the military I was give a serial number my DI went to lengths to tell us that if we damaged our ability to carry out our primary mission we could be fined or jailed, he also told us that we were expendable...

If I had a problem with my Norton and it fixed itself, I would be doubly concerned...

Best
 
RoadScholar said:
If I had a problem with my Norton and it fixed itself, I would be doubly concerned...
Click to expand...
Believe me. I am still concerned.I put the old relay back in to see if it happens again while I am out riding. I have the new relay and a bunch of fuses in the side cover so if it does happen while I'm on the road I can change it then get back home.
If it does it again then it may be the starter itself.
That bell better arrive soon!
 
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