CNW Front DIsc Brake Upgrade

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dirtymartini

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Has anyone installed the CNW Front disc upgrade? I keep looking at it but $1,000 keeps holding me back :lol: Will it work on the Mark III? I'm guessing I would have to replace the original right hand switch gear and throttle?
 
CNW make a special bracket to fit the stock switchgear to the Brembo master cylinder for the Pre 1975 models. So, to use a CNW brake kit for your mk111, you would have to fit new switch gear and twist grip too.
 
My master cylinder is shot and I was thinking of the re-sleeved 13mm master cylinders that are available at different vendors. Then I saw the CNW kit. Maybe I will try the 13mm upgrade and see how that works.
 
The CNW master cyl kit and your oem front disc will stop the bike like a modern machine - the limitation will be the front tire. IMO, the CNW complete kit (discs and MC) is not necessary for an oem bike - just the CNW MC will allow you lock up the front wheel if you want and the feel is superb.

Not saying that the CNW complete kit wouldn't be great but unless you have a larger, stickier tire on the front than an oem-size Avon RoadRunner or whatever, the complete kit isn't really needed as far as performance is concerned…APPEARANCE? Well, that's a different thing! :)

Also, I have had the oem MC, a sleeved OEM MC, and the CNW MC on my Commando. A sleeved oem MC is noticeably better than stock but the CNW MC is an order of magnitude better than that. OTOH, the CNW MC does not look remotely like the oem piece and if the stock appearance is mandatory, the sleeved MC is the only option as far as I know.

For the first few years after buying the CNW MC, I would periodically alternate it with my sleeved oem so I could have oem switchgear but I finally just said the Hell with it and opted for superior brakes over stock appearance/switchgear.
 
It depends on how fast you ride. If you ride conservatively in built up areas with fairly low speed limits, the stock brake will never overheat and can be made to do the job just fine.
If you ride aggressively on mountain highways, then the stock brake is a joke, the tiny pad area is not sufficient and the brake will overheat and fade to zero no matter what master cylinder is on there.

The cure for my bike was the Madass 320 mm disc and six piston caliper. By all accounts the CNW Brembo is also a great setup.

Glen
 
mike996 said:
The CNW master cyl kit and your oem front disc will stop the bike like a modern machine - the limitation will be the front tire. IMO, the CNW complete kit (discs and MC) is not necessary for an oem bike - just the CNW MC will allow you lock up the front wheel if you want and the feel is superb.

Not saying that the CNW complete kit wouldn't be great but unless you have a larger, stickier tire on the front than an oem-size Avon RoadRunner or whatever, the complete kit isn't really needed as far as performance is concerned…APPEARANCE? Well, that's a different thing! :)

Also, I have had the oem MC, a sleeved OEM MC, and the CNW MC on my Commando. A sleeved oem MC is noticeably better than stock but the CNW MC is an order of magnitude better than that. OTOH, the CNW MC does not look remotely like the oem piece and if the stock appearance is mandatory, the sleeved MC is the only option as far as I know.

For the first few years after buying the CNW MC, I would periodically alternate it with my sleeved oem so I could have oem switchgear but I finally just said the Hell with it and opted for superior brakes over stock appearance/switchgear.
Click to expand...

My problem is I have a Mark III and would have to come up with a throttle/switchgear solution.
 
dirtymartini said:
My problem is I have a Mark III and would have to come up with a throttle/switchgear solution.
Click to expand...


I fitted the complete Madass single disc kit to my MK111 and kept the stock switchgear. It took a few hours of work to do this. If you go to page three of this thread and read on, there are photos and description of how to do this.

new-front-brake-kit-t15950-45.html?hilit=madass%20brake

Glen
 
About three years ago I bought and installed the complete CNW front brake upgrade, simply fabulous

my stock right handlebar Norton switchgear was replaced by the Brembo master cylinder/lever from CNW, which was just fine
with me as the only thing on stock switchgear was the kill button which had stopped working some 20 years ago anyway

I think the entire setup including the disc, caliper, Brembo lever/master cylinder and curved fender stay was about $1300
 
I did a CNW Brembo upgrade. Fantastic upgrade. I ride hard on mountain roads and breaking is spectacular now. I was not worried about keeping stock OEM appearance. I also upgraded to CNW billet triple trees and hyd clutch. Was happy with the entire package
 

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worntorn said:
It depends on how fast you ride. If you ride conservatively in built up areas with fairly low speed limits, the stock brake will never overheat and can be made to do the job just fine.
If you ride aggressively on mountain highways, then the stock brake is a joke, the tiny pad area is not sufficient and the brake will overheat and fade to zero no matter what master cylinder is on there.

The cure for my bike was the Madass 320 mm disc and six piston caliper. By all accounts the CNW Brembo is also a great setup.

Glen
Click to expand...


Again, the issue is the master cylinder, not the oem caliper. The CNW MC and the stock Norton/Lockheed caliper will proved more than enough stopping power for the oem-size front tire, regardless of how aggressively you ride. The limitation is the front tire. If you can lock the front wheel at any speed (as the CNW MC/oem front tire can), then having "more" ability to do that doesn't help you at all.
 
I have to disagree with you. The cool brake's ability to lock the wheel has no bearing on what occurs with a superheated brake, which is what you have after pulling the bike down hard from speed a couple of times in rapid succession. If ridden very hard the stock pads will overheat and the brake will fade to nothing. It is quite a shocker when it occurs. No master cylinder arrangement can help you. I have had this occur twice with the stock brake, both times pushing the limits of the bike.
Jim Comstock mentioned that he had the same thing occur.

To see what I mean, take your bike up to 70 MPH, brake hard to stop or near stop, then accelerate hard to 70 MPH and immediately stop hard again. Now accelerate had to 70 then apply the brakes, you will have little or no brake.


Glen
 
I have to agree with Glenn. I switched to a Brembo m/c on my MK3, and really improved the braking power in easy riding. But hard braking use on twisty roads does overheat the stock brake and make it fade. For really aggressive riding, you need a better caliper too, with more pad area.

Ken
 
worntorn said:
I have to disagree with you. The cool brake's ability to lock the wheel has no bearing on what occurs with a superheated brake, which is what you have after pulling the bike down hard from speed a couple of times in rapid succession. If ridden very hard the stock pads will overheat and the brake will fade to nothing. It is quite a shocker when it occurs. No master cylinder arrangement can help you. I have had this occur twice with the stock brake, both times pushing the limits of the bike.
Jim Comstock mentioned that he had the same thing occur.

To see what I mean, take your bike up to 70 MPH, brake hard to stop or near stop, then accelerate hard to 70 MPH and immediately stop hard again. Now accelerate had to 70 then apply the brakes, you will have little or no brake.


Glen
Click to expand...

Well, I have never had that happen with the stock caliper/Ferodo pads on the street but I won't claim to have pushed my Commando like I used to run my 996 Duck on track days when we lived in NY. OTOH, I routinely practice Commando panic stops from 90+mph just to keep the "feel" of it in my bones but I don't do successive ones. So the brakes don't get the sort of repeated continuous load you are describing. My typical rides here do have a lot of tight curves/straights/lots of braking but I certainly wouldn't call what I do any more than at most, 7/10ths. Well, then again, maybe it USED to be what I would have called 7/10ths but now, for me it might be 10/10ths! :)
 
I've had the CNW front disc upgrade on my 1973 850 Commando for a couple of years now and am so totally satisfied that I am fitting the same upgrade to the 1972 750 PR replica (well, only a sort of a replica or it wouldn't have the CNW front disc I guess). I've never regretted it. Good back up from them too from what I hear - if it should be needed.
 
swooshdave said:
dirtymartini said:
Has anyone seen or used this guy...?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/251863006504?it ... 23&vxp=mtr
Click to expand...

That is Gary from DBR. He has ground many a disc, including mine. Highly recommend using him or buying one that is already done.
Click to expand...


They did my disc just like this one. I have a Magura master cylinder, SS brake lines also. As previously stated the setup is good for most riding, but the OEM caliper is not as good as the Brembo in all situations. Maybe next year.

MF
 
I should clarify that although I don't need the CNW complete kit for street operation on my engine-wise stock Commando (though SS brake lines/good Ferodo (or whatever) pads are also needed IMO when you install the CNW master cyl), the CNW Complete kit is, as we used to say, "totally bitchin'." I often consider installing the "rest" of the kit (caliper/disc) just for the look!

NOTE: I didn't realize that CNW is now producing an adapter that allows use of the oem switchgear until reading this thread; I haven't looked at their site recently. I ordered one today so I can remount the oem switchgear/use the brembo MC. COOL!
 
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