DogT said:So it looks like the thing to do without a lathe is select parts for the correct diaphragm shape, to hell with the clutch pack height? Maybe this explains why some have easy clutches and some not.
pete.v said:I think that is why Old Britts sell the drive plates with different thickness. You buy the set, use the one that works and send the others back for credit. (for those without a lathe)
http://www.oldbritts.com/ob_clutch_info.html
DogT said:I tried the OB clutch set and there was none thin enough to work on my clutch without slipping. I probably need something in the .030-.040 range. I measured the Barnet plain plate I got and it's .075 or so. So my only other option is Jim's method most likely.
worntorn said:Will the 850 clutch stack with it's extra plate but thinner plates fit into the 750?
Deets55 said:. The spring is concave at rest and I believe almost flat with the lever pulled in.
Pete
L.A.B. said:worntorn said:Will the 850 clutch stack with it's extra plate but thinner plates fit into the 750?
The clutch drum is the same for both 4 and 5-plate clutches but the 5-plate pressure plate is thinner.
L.A.B. said:worntorn said:Will the 850 clutch stack with it's extra plate but thinner plates fit into the 750?
The so-called '850' 5-plate clutch was originally introduced on the late 750 models (from 212278).
The clutch drum is the same for both 4 and 5-plate clutches but the 5-plate pressure plate is thinner.
http://atlanticgreen.com/clutchpak.htm
DogT said:I tried the OB clutch set and there was none thin enough to work on my clutch without slipping. I probably need something in the .030-.040 range. I measured the Barnet plain plate I got and it's .075 or so. So my only other option is Jim's method most likely.
pete.v said:Deets55 said:. The spring is concave at rest and I believe almost flat with the lever pulled in.
Pete
Mine is convex at rest (although you could argue that it is flat) and more convex with the lever pulled in.
This action was being performed with one finger, of course. In all the time/years I have had this set like this, the clutch has never ever slipped. This is a 5 plate 850 setup on my 750. I recommend this to anyone.
[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c8RjSvg-aME[/video]
swooshdave said:DogT said:I tried the OB clutch set and there was none thin enough to work on my clutch without slipping. I probably need something in the .030-.040 range. I measured the Barnet plain plate I got and it's .075 or so. So my only other option is Jim's method most likely.
I'm surprised you couldn't find a combination that would work.
ludwig said:I am happy for you that your clutch works fine , but it is way too big .
It sticks out of the belt like a sore thumb .
Cut that drum down to 32 mm and throw out half of the stuff that is inside .
ludwig said:Pete .v ,
If you ever have the chance , install your complete clutch on a mainshaft , put it in a lathe and spin it to 3000 rpm .
You will likely get an idea of the forces involved .
A standard 850 clutch , with the extra steel plate like often recommended , weights 6 kg .
With a little effort , you can bring that down to 2.5 kg or less .
That makes a huge difference in rotational energy .
All you need is 3 narrow steel an 4 fibre plates , an alloy back plate and a thin alloy pressure plate .
It will all fit in a 30 mm wide basket .
Instead of adding stuff to get to the correct stack height , why not removing it ?
swooshdave said:Because not everyone has access to a lathe? Sound incredible but it's actually true. So for us mere mortals we have to play with stack height and not the clutch size. :mrgreen: