Clutch Drag ==> Stalls

Status
Not open for further replies.
Tornado

Tornado

VIP MEMBER
Joined
Dec 5, 2017
Messages
4,868
Country flag
Was already to make first long ride of this year today, but when I went to put it in first gear, clutch held in, clunck! Engine stalled. Tried again, and same stall. On CS, clutch in, I found rear wheel very hard to turn, almost needing two hands. Alway seemed OK the previous two around town rides last week.
Checked clutch adjuster nut, slackened it off, then turned in adjuster until pressure on clutch spring felt, then back out 1/2-1 turn. This made no difference in hard to turn rear wheel while holding clutch in.
Could this be a loose clutch basket nut (the one under the plates)? I followed OldBrits rec to only torque to 40 ftlbs not the 70 the shop manual reccomends...used some Locktite on it as well. Primary fluid is fresh, ATF F.
 
I would try setting the adjuster to 1/4 turn out and make sure there's just a little play at the lever. Clutch cables elongate over time and the clutch pushrod and the adjuster wears. Clutch plate stack height decreases.
 
Pete Mahone said:
It sounds like my clutch on the mk3
I call it ‘sticky’ and am planning to pull it apart as soon as I get time.
I pull the clutch lever in with the key in the off position and kick her over until it ‘unsticks’ usually 1 or 2 kicks. Then it’s good to go.
Click to expand...

I've never known my Mk3's bronze plates to 'stick' but they would drag slightly sometimes making 1st gear selection harsh and neutral selection difficult especially if the plates were not removed and cleaned periodically.
Last year I fitted a set of (5) Surflex friction plates which were a definite improvement.
 
It depends.
If you have aftermarket Barnett Kevlars in there then the ATF is ideal.

A seal of some type on the clutch pushrod can be helpful if even a tiny bit of trans oil is getting on the plates.

Glen
 
Last edited:
Pull in the clutch with the bike in neutral. Push the kickstart. There should be little resistance. If high restance than you have sticky plates.
 
More details:
Some of you know I did the full gearbox tear down and replaced all seals/bushes/bearings/springs over Winter. Had the primary completely off for this, so clutch plates were cleaned, primary chain slack set as per book. I did replace the OEM felt seal inner primary cover...but new one a bear to fit and it didn't seem to be very even along its inner orifice. I did apply healthy smear of grease to clutch rod was recommended. I was running ATF from about 2000 miles ago last season after I had some sticky clutch plates...tended not to full release during on road shifting occasionally...nothing like what it's doing now though. Cable is new last year...Venhill with 4000 miles total.

I played around with different clutch adjustments and lever free play earlier...from 1/4 to 1 full turn out after resistance point. No difference.

It is possible some gear oil got on plates...is that enough to give the stalls shifting into first on CS and hard wheel turns with clutch pulled in?
No one thinks it might be the basket nut torque? I did fit a new circlip.
 
OK, tried kicking in N with clutch in...definitely quite stiff.
I will be pulling primary off to have a good look/cleaning of the plates.
 
Is the ball on the clutch arm in the gearbox sitting right???, I am still running my orginal clutch plates and has over 160k on it, my clutch has always been light and never sticks, have never touched the clutch height and have only replaced clutch centre and primary chains, run AFT F tranny oil in primary 7 fl oz and never over fill my gear box, I don't run a clutch seal and have never had gearbox oil in my primary, so I be pulling it apart to find out why, not a major job and is part of general maintenance, I be taking notice of the ball in the clutch arm as its easy to get out of place when the clutch rod has been removed and reinstalled.

Ashley
 
Ball is correctly located in the lifter arm. Was very careful with that as per MH's gearbox work video. It was all working fine last week on short town rides. Went to pot trying to pull out of my parking spot today. Best guess is too much GB oil, contamination of plates. When filling GB and primary, bike is not fully level as parkade floor slopes a fair bit. Thought it would be close enough...maybe not. Need to watch this I suppose.
 
When I fill my gearbox I use a messuring cup and messure by the book I found out a long time ago by using the level cube in the gearbox it over fills the gearbox and gets oil down the clutch rod, so using the messuring cup I get the right amount without overfilling, usualy its about 1/2 up on the kickstart spring looking through the filler cover when he bike is sitting straight up.
Been doing it this way for over 40 years and my gearbox only rebuilt when the dreaded lay shaft bearing blew way back in 1979 and have replaced the kick start pawl 4 times, I always go by the book lol.

Ashley
 
oil on the clutch plates and then they stick together.
pull out the plates, clean them carefully, reinstall with
a DynoDave Clutch Rod Seal. Report back if it continues.
 
Details on the DynoDave seal?

@illf8ed : yes, that is something I was thinking...ias mentioned earlier, I set that nut to 40 ft-lbs with some blue Locktite as per OldBrits tech doc rec. New c clip was used.
Will check this once apart.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

S
Clutch adjustment concern
Replies
19
Views
1,047
Semitone
S
Edfury828
Rear Wheel turns with kicker - no clutch
Replies
5
Views
386
Tornado
Tornado
ashman
Seems to be a debate on use of clutch when stopped
2 3 4 5 6 7
Replies
134
Views
5,732
ashman
ashman
gpzkat
Clutch work on my N15CS, some interesting challenges
2 3
Replies
40
Views
898
franko
F
Saber
Lost Clutch Issue
2 3
Replies
47
Views
2,392
Saber
Saber
Back
Top