Clutch basket wobble

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baz said:
Did you use the tab washer under the clutch nut? If so it should loosen a bit
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Yes, I did. Totally as per the book. Too inexperienced to make 'improvements' along the way!
 

Clucth nut, fixing in place?

The belville washer works wonders there also. Jim Sorry, but what's a belville washer? Any picture? Fritz
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concours said:
Published data is WRONG. Use 40 ft. lbs.
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kommando said:
No as it gets magnified by the time you get to the edge of the basket, your own figures show 12 thou at the shaft becomes 20 to 25 thou at the larger diameter (surprised it not more). I would be looking for 1 to 2 thou runout on the shaft. It needs taking out and it tested between centres to find the bend plus the sleeve gear bushes checked as well.
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Thanks Kommando. Can the mainshaft be removed without removing the gearbox?
 
Mart UK said:
Yes, I did. Totally as per the book. Too inexperienced to make 'improvements' along the way!
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The tab washer is soft mild steel
It can squash a little and loosen
The tab washer does a good job of stopping the nut falling off but not keeping the nut tight with the result sometimes the clutch center becomes worn on the spline and will need replacement
Next time you are in there make sure you replace the main shaft clutch circlip
 
BERT said:
Please read post #26. Thank you
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I have always tightened the clutch nut with a foot heavily down on the rear brake pedal which I reinstall for this purpose. We can only guess if your method contributed to the bend.
 
baz said:
The tab washer is soft mild steel
It can squash a little and loosen
The tab washer does a good job of stopping the nut falling off but not keeping the nut tight with the result sometimes the clutch center becomes worn on the spline and will need replacement
Next time you are in there make sure you replace the main shaft clutch circlip
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And as indicated by L.A.B. the 06.8072 circlip will give more control over clutch wobble. You need to thin it down until it's a tight fit in the mainshaft slot though.
 
BERT said:
Please read post #26. Thank you
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The other guy saying to use 40 ft/lbs did not read your post and confused the rotor nut (that you mentioned) with the gearbox shaft nut.
The rotor nut does go to 70 ft/lbs, the gearbox nut to 40 ft/lbs even though the manual says 70 ft/lbs (I use 42 ft/lbs and a new ring clip)

The rotor nut 70 ft/lbs has a direct impact on the sprocket taper and seating ( I retorque the rotor nut three times over a 24 hour period) needs that figure.
To your question, could using the clutch locking tool against the rear isolastic stud bend the gearbox shaft when used to tighten the rotor nut I would not know as I machined that tool to hold the rotor independently from the rest of the primary drive to tighten its nut.
Even though the primary and gearbox are somewhat flimsy by design (poorly supported for one) I would have thought not as far as bending unless the shaft was known to run concentric beforehand.

Would the primary drive ratio come into play multiplying the 70 ft/lbs of the rotor nut when held by the clutch drum would be something for the mechanical engineers.
 
Time Warp said:
The other guy saying to use 40 ft/lbs did not read your post and confused the rotor nut (that you mentioned) with the gearbox shaft nut.
The rotor nut does go to 70 ft/lbs, the gearbox nut to 40 ft/lbs even though the manual says 70 ft/lbs (I use 42 ft/lbs and a new ring clip)

The rotor nut 70 ft/lbs has a direct impact on the sprocket taper and seating ( I retorque the rotor nut three times over a 24 hour period) needs that figure.
To your question, could using the clutch locking tool against the rear isolastic stud bend the gearbox shaft when used to tighten the rotor nut I would not know as I machined that tool to hold the rotor independently from the rest of the primary drive to tighten its nut.
Even though the primary and gearbox are somewhat flimsy by design (poorly supported for one) I would have thought not as far as bending unless the shaft was known to run concentric beforehand.

Would the primary drive ratio come into play multiplying the 70 ft/lbs of the rotor nut when held by the clutch drum would be something for the mechanical engineers.
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I ask(post #26) because I am tempted to put a fitted pipe on the shaft and bend it back if it could have been bent this way from the outside. by me or previously
 
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BERT said:
I ask(post #27) because I am tempted to put a fitted pipe on the shaft and bend it back if it could have been bent this way from the outside. by me or previously
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You could end up with 2 bends, both cancelling each other out at the clutch end so getting rid of the clutch wobble but having issues elsewhere including inside the box. It needs to be straight along its full length, only way to ensure that is to buy new or get it straightened properly. All we know currently is that its bent, not where its bent.
 
BERT said:
I ask(post #26) because I am tempted to put a fitted pipe on the shaft and bend it back if it could have been bent this way from the outside. by me or previously
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You could try that
See if it comes out with a tweak but you will be putting a lot of strain on the sleeve gear and bearing
It's not much more work to remove the mainshaft now you the primary stripped
I'd remove the shaft and try it on some V blocks if you have some
If not make a couple up
A couple bits of ally or even hardwood would work with a vee cut into them just for checking purposes
 
kommando said:
You could end up with 2 bends, both cancelling each other out at the clutch end so getting rid of the clutch wobble but having issues elsewhere including inside the box. It needs to be straight along its full length, only way to ensure that is to buy new or get it straightened properly. All we know currently is that its bent, not where its bent.
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Thank you. I will remove it. Can it be done without removing the inner primary case and countershaft sprocket? The sleeve gear bushes feel good.
 
BERT said:
Thank you. I will remove it. Can it be done without removing the inner primary case and countershaft sprocket?
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Yes but the countershaft has the sleeve bushes so if these show as worn that will need to come out too, but the gearbox shell will still be able to be left in place, primary inner will need to come off for access to the nut and washer holding the sprocket on.
 
BERT said:
Thank you. I will remove it. Can it be done without removing the inner primary case and countershaft sprocket? The sleeve gear bushes feel good.
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You will need to remove the clutch circlip
You can leave the inner chaincase on unless as kommando says you are removing the sleeve gear
Do you have the tool to remove the locking ring from the clutch actuator? Sometimes they are loose
Often battered with a hammer and punch !!!
 
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