Charging woes

don

Joined
Mar 19, 2005
Messages
17
I,ve just finished building a Atlas Cafe Racer but am having a charging problem , I have a new stator, good rotor, boyer MK3, and a new Tympanium reg/rectifier. I,m only getting 10 to 11 charging volts , I,ve replaced the tympanium with another new one but no difference , I,m wondering whether this all I can expect from this setup, ANY advice will be appreciated.
 
Joined
Mar 19, 2005
Messages
696
you should have at least 14 volts, to charge a 12 volt battery...make sure the clearance between the stator and the magnet is there, if it touches, it will load all the voltage to the frame, and not the battery.
 

Anonymous

Guest
bad ground, wire touching somewhere the frame? Where are you measuring the voltage? across the poles on the battery? does the voltage increase with engine speed, like it most likely should? Can't be much wrong....
 

Anonymous

Guest
is the rotor on straight, loose? Someone must know what you should measure straight off the wires, out of the primary case, would be alternating current,before the rectifier, but ther must be a way to localize the problem.
 

Anonymous

Guest
I have the rotor fixed to the belt drive pulley. I read in a manual that 9volts AC should be coming out , and thats what mine measured though that doesnt sound right
 
Joined
Mar 18, 2005
Messages
28
Check to see if the wires are good at the exit point of the stator, sometimes you can get a "crack" and "bleed" there. Did you build the loom yourself, I am thinking you did. Was it all new wire or did you "cut and paste"? I would suspect a suspect ground first. Do us a favor and keep us posted! I love a good electrical solution when it finally happens.
 

Anonymous

Guest
eledtrical

double check wires ar stator for tiny breaks in insulaton.
 

Anonymous

Guest
It charges 10 t0 11 volts at the battery, 9volts AC at the alternator . every thing is brand new ,there certainly doesnt appear to be any shorting any where , I,ll try another new stator
 

Anonymous

Guest
A chiltons manual I have says 9Volts AC should be at the Alternator , mine is brand new ,I wouldnt think the wires would be cracked but I,ll try a new one . No one can verify what should be coming from the Alternator AC.
 
Joined
Apr 7, 2004
Messages
1,691
This is common when changing over to podtronic (sp)or tympanium You would like to see 13-14 volts @ 3000 rpm then have the internal zener kick in and keep it there. An amp check is really what's important for the real world. Just put an amp gage were the fuse goes in the system. Bikes off to start. Turn the key on and you should see about a three amp draw for the Boyer, fire it up at revs to 3500rpm you should see three amps positive. Turn on all the lights head and tail you better have 1 amp left over or your not going to be chargeing the battery. If you have a problem you can run a LED tail light they draw one third of the current required for a standard tail light. norbsa
 

Anonymous

Guest
Thanks Greg, I just asked Reg to check his Alternator AC output but I,ll dig up an amp gauge and do as you say,
Don (Brisbane)
 

Anonymous

Guest
the nearest I could get to a 1ohm/50watts resistor is a 1.3ohm/50watt ,I dont know if this will make a big difference but all I,m getting from the Alternator is 4.7v AC, I changed the stator to another new one and got the same result. I,ve checked the rotor magenitism and its as good as other ones I,ve got lying around.
 

Anonymous

Guest
I think I may have found the problem, I,ve removed the rotor ,something I didnt want to do as It is spigoted and doweled to the pulley, but now its off and the magenitism is definitely not as strong as others I have., I thought it was as good as the others but its not, I now have to machine another one to replace it. I,ll keep you posted.
 

Anonymous

Guest
Sure was the old rotor I used with not enough magnetism. now I,m getting 14.2 volts. The only part that wasnt new let me down.
 

MichaelB

"Sons of Arthritus"
VIP MEMBER
Joined
Jan 14, 2004
Messages
1,779
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Thanks for the update. We all appreciate hearing how these conclude.
 

Anonymous

Guest
what did you have to machine? I had a rotor on a 1941 cycle remagnetized once...but how would machining do the trick, or did you take a non-stock rotor and adapt it? Just curious....
 

Anonymous

Guest
No , my rotor is spigoted to the front pulley which required some machining , when I realised the rotor had no magnetism I replaced it which required machining of the replacement rotor, Got it.
 
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