Charging Puzzle

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If I was you Swoosh I'de look at this as a good time to by one of those new Shorei (not sure on the spelling) lithium batteries. I just put a Sparx high output alt & Reg/Rec in along with a new head lamp and I had just bought a new 14 ah regular type battery. It takes up my whole battery box so I really wish I knew about the Shorei batteries first because I could use one & still have room for a clean mounted fuse pannel all in the stock battery box. They can make them in several differant size boxes so you can tell them what you want.
 
DogT said:
That may or may not work, Josh. There are just too many variations on what is happening in my book. If the rotor is weak, it may seem fine, but won't hold up to a good run with lights. The only real way is to keep an eye on the battery voltage while running long term. It's probably not a bad idea to run it without the battery and the voltmeter to see what's going on too, though, sometimes the battery will drag down the charging system because the battery is sucking the system.

Dave
69S
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According to Walridge Motors check your two stator leads (for a single phase) out of the primary....You should get 20V AC at 1750 RPM
If the rotor is good.
Cheers.
CNN
 
One ohm resistors are a cheap purchase. I bought one from outfit called Nebraska surplus a few years ago for about 25 bucks. You need one that can handle at least 200 watts. Its just a simple matter then of following the test proceedure in the shop manual. You can check output both at the alternator and at the rectifier. You can even quickly load test the battery with it. While there are work around test methods, a test with correct load will give the most accurate results.
 
Unless you just want to let the battery sit not hooked up to anything for 12 hours or more. Does the same thing. Then read the voltage and compare to the chart. That's easier and there's no guessing how long you need to discharge it.

Dave
69S
 
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