Chain Oiler Question

I wanted to ask you guys for information on the chain oiler on my '68 Commando. Even though I have replaced the element, I still get too much oil from the oiler and it will drip several drops on the floor after the bike sits overnight. I don't have this problem on my '70. I've been told to just disconnect the oiler, but I wanted to see what other Commando owners have done with theirs.

Disconnect the oiler.

I think it is Belray that makes some sticky clear chain lube. Apply at every other gas fill up. A friend of mine swears by Scot Oilers.

Greg

Several drips? I always had puddles. That was the first thing I did when I got my 69/70 S. disconnect the feed to the chain oiler and use PJ1 or whatever you like. You can buy a chain for $25-30 and replace it every year, just like changing your oil. All it does is make oil drip and who wants that, except BP or Exxon.

Dave
69S

Its about the first thing to be blocked or removed on Commando's. Best route it to drool out the swing arm spindle. Its basically a slow total loss system that don't oil chain enough to matter just grime everything to keep rust at bay.

Old school removed chain and dunked, soaked washed in paraffin/kerosene then dunked in heated grease, wiped off and installed. Standard practice was to keep on chain in oil or grease bucket ready to switch out for dry chain and cycle em.

I use a fish tank air valve in line with the hose after the filter element. Makes it adjustable and they are just the right size for the tubing.

I wanted to keep mine original bone stock just for esthetics.
When some one ask'd: OH!, what's that? I tell em the automatic chain oiler.
Wow does it really work?
Nope.
No response, point made.
I took my filter housing, clear tube up near oil tank, apart and pulled the wick and filled it w/ silicon over 2 years ago then reassembled.
Nothing gets past the wick and no drips. The unit is just there because it came that way.
It is historically correct with no legitimate purpose.
They later came out w/ a srew type clamp to regulate the flow.
I have one but never tried it.
Fill it up w/ GE silicon tub/tile stuff let sit and reassemble.
PJ black on a warmed chain lasts a long time.
Properly adjust chain and ride till warm
Spray on an old tooth brush and rub on inside/outside and both sides of links.
Let cool to chain.
Doesn't prevent fly off just limits it. Minimal wipe off the rear license plated after 60-100 mile ride.
I do the chain about 1x a month.
So far no issues.
Marshal

I have a "Chain Lube Program" that seems to work well:

I keep the can-o-lube close to where I park the bike and lube the exposed portion of the chain every time I park the bike, the "random factor" seems to work and I think I get the entire chain regularly.

Vince

Chain oiler. Just what a Norton needed, a built in oil leak.

Jim, I think you are competing with Swooshdave for the humor here, but my sentiments exactly.

Dave
69S

Marshal, you and i have come to same conclusion and solution for chain oiler, just for show. Same with an amp meter too. In gritty conditions its better to just run dry chain or make a grinding paste I've found. Otherwise I run a sealed X-ring.
I admire those disciplined enough to clean up after Norton oiler or lube it enough to matter on their own. Effort wise I'll just change chain 8-10K miles.

BTW if you can lift the rear links out of the sprocket valleys even a little bit, no matter how tense or slack the chain set, its getting worn to matter.