Center stand troubles

L.A.B.

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You mention bolting up to the frame?

But the stand shown is the later ('71-on) type that bolts to the engine cradle, the stand stop lugs should rest against the plates of the cradle?
Or have I misunderstood what you have said?

The upper spring hole is above and forward of the left hand stand pivot with this arrangement.
 
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the plate on the frame says 72 and the engine number also says 72. but the stand bolts to the frame i will take a photo tomorrow.

mmm it has me stumped might have to modify this stand sum how and put lugs on the outside not on the inside.
 
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Assuming you've got the stand with the helper pedal to the nearside (L) the longer topside of the stop blocks should contact the cradle with stand up and the shorter front part (at 90deg) should stop the bike rolling off the stand when its down. That is if the blocks are welded in the right place and they seem to be.
The spring is attached to the 1/8" + cradle hole first (I think this end has a different hook form, more of a 'U'?) This hole is adjacent and 1" above L side stand bolt/nut head. Hook it to the stand with the pivot legs as high as you can get them, close to the cradle (easier if both legs are positioned to the left of the cradle, ie the L one well left and the R one inside the r/h cradle plate.
Make sure the bike is on the sidestand and not upright cos the next bit calls for some force and you don't want to pull the bike over. Have a big screwdriver or piece of bar handy (a mate will help though you can do this on yr own) then with both hands pull the stand down so both legs are outside the cradle and try to align the holes. Get the driver loosely in one hole (you can work the stand along the bottom of the cradle against the spring then fit the opposite bolt. Usually I do the L first). The other side is a lot easier since you have something to lever against.
Another way which could work and save on all that heaving and pulling is to space out the coils with lots of 1/8" spacers by stretching it and ramming spacers between the coils. But if you don't get enough in and they start dropping out during installation when you stretch it more you'll be p****d.
It's not so bad once you see where it all goes. Good luck.
 
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i will take a photo of my stand and the bottom of the bike where it is mounted tommorrow and will post it up then. thanks for the help so far.
 
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Why would anyone transfer a 72 no. to an early frame unless that's what they could find after an accident, would keep the paperwork straight I suppose.
I think you can use the Mk3 stand but of course you have to drill a couple of 7/16" holes + the spring hole. This is a cradle out job unless you remove the rear iso bolt, oil tank, exhausts etc and jack up the engine and cradle (frame rails in the way).
FYI my stand pivot hole centres are on appx 1-9/16" radius backwards from the lower gearbox hole centre and appx 7/8" from the bottom of the lower cradle. The LH spring hole is appx 15/16" above the L pivot hole centre. Might be a touch forward of vertical but not much. If you do this get some accurate dims. off someone with a bare cradle.
 

L.A.B.

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Commando frames are normally stamped with their part number (in fairly small digits) on the front face of the left hand fuel tank bracket so can give info on the production year.

A '71-'72 should have '06 2002' part number

An earlier frame is likely to be stamped '06 0406'

But a frame mounted centre stand would seem to identify it as pre-'71.
 
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My 71 roadster has frame brackets for center stand, but center stand is bolted to engine cradle anyway. Presume it took a while for design changes to settle down!
 

L.A.B.

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Center stand troubles
 
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thanks for the pic should i be able to just drill some holes in the correct spot on my engine cradel without having to remove the other center stand mounts and adding a hole for the spring. if so can someone give me some idea where the holes must be drilled. here are some photos of my stand and the mounts.

http://boganpages.burnoutworld.com/gallery/NortonRebuild/stand_mount1
http://boganpages.burnoutworld.com/gallery/NortonRebuild/standmount2
http://boganpages.burnoutworld.com/gallery/NortonRebuild/P1020660
 
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I don't think that you're going to be able to do this without major re-working and dismantling.

You appear to have a pre-71 frame and the later models had the lower cross tube repositioned forwards by the side stand mount. I suspect that it will get in the way of the later type stand.

Your best advice is probably to look for a 1970 or earlier type centre stand. Fairy Spires has them listed part no 06 1116 @ £63.50
 
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I wouldn't be too sad about this. This older stand does not flat spot the iso's.Iam sure you can work a trade to get back the doe.
 
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norbsa48503 said:
I wouldn't be too sad about this. This older stand does not flat spot the iso's.Iam sure you can work a trade to get back the doe.

I'm a committed main stand user. Do you think this has long-term consequences for the rubbers ? I've never noticed it...but then again, I've never looked for it either.

I have wondered about the factory advice regarding setting Mk111 isos. If the bike is on the mainstand, then the weight of the rolling chassis, less "power train" is hanging on the rubbers but if the frame is on blocks, the weight of the "power train" i.e. Engine / Gearbox / Swing Arm is pulling down on the isolastics. Which is heavier ? I should have thought about the same.
 
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I do the same as you and never worry. These stories come from bikes stored for years when they run again they vibrate like crazy. Older owners just laugh. So if it was going up for a long lay up leaning it up agaist a wall would flat spot the tyres still leaving some life in the iso's but how much I don't know. Horse a piece.
 
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norbsa48503 said:
I do the same as you and never worry. These stories come from bikes stored for years when they run again they vibrate like crazy. Older owners just laugh. So if it was going up for a long lay up leaning it up agaist a wall would flat spot the tyres still leaving some life in the iso's but how much I don't know. Horse a piece.

Looks like I'm going to have to hang a chain block off the garage roof then :D . Please, nobody tell me that's going to distort the frame spine :roll:

There's no substitute for riding them is there ? Get out there, wear 'em out and rebuild 'em indefinitely :wink:
 
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i guess i will be on the hunt for either a pre-1970 stand or a 1972 frame either for sell or swap, i wouldnt mind getting the frame just to make it all original again and would give me a chance to 2pac the frame and paint my cases. I guess i now know why i had to die grind some metal of my engine cradel to get the gearbox in.

thanks for all the help so if you know anyone looking for a pre 1970 frame or selling a 1972 frame please email me on stapy_69@iinet.net.au
 
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