Casing jointing compound (2018)

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Ok I have taken the descion and placed the order.
Wellseal will be the one yes from Amazon.
At some stage I will write my views.
 
Took a time and Bingo, great handling (with a small brush), plenty of time for Assembler and not a Dropbox of oil on my Garage floor but do use a reed valve to breite your crankcase.
 
That's a pretty decent road report. (2 years +)

WELLSEAL is probably like anything else if the joint face is prepped.

What's some time.
I remove the studs and break the edge on all holes (countersink) including threaded. (also deals with pulled threads)
Flat the faces with a flat block (lathe tool holder) and kerosene on W&D and redo the countersink if needed.
I am yet to see a drilled or threaded hole that does not have a shiny ring (high spot) around it after flat checking.

Acetone clean the faces, small brush applied Wellseal and left to sit for a 1/2 hour and then redabbed with the brush and left again to settle.
I think (but have no evidence) letting this product sit so it settles and tacks off before assembly is paramount.

This is before the second 'dabbing and left again to sit.
Those factory lines in the face (the pic makes it look much worse than it is) are more than enough reason to take your time with this job as is removing any potential high spot.

ws.jpg


Wellseal (imho) is the most British way to do it.
 
Time Warp that is an excellent explanation how it should be done. I will put that to use soon.

I'm not sure it is a should but maybe a could be done.

If the faces had been attacked by some previous persons and any damage was not addressed with the likes of JB Weld or Devcon with the same flatting off ThreeBond mastic would probably be a safer option for a leak free joint.
For me Wellseal is great for surfaces in good condition.

I only ever use Loctite 515 on gaskets, wiped on, all but wetting them.
A case of, open to suggestion with new products but this has worked for some time so will do for now.

The main thing is to not add to the 'British bikes all leak myth/legend.
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There is a possibility the modern compounds (even though Japanese bikes look to have used some from of ThreeBond type product for 50 years (Kawasaki H2 case joint for one) might be more forgiving once set up/gone off compared to Wellseal as far as heat cycles and other possible movement while retaining the seal (Or not)
 
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Nice Wellseal pic TW!

And I completely agree that Wellseal is the best... for good surfaces. My preference is for a modern silicone product on any dodgy surfaces.

I‘m not sure if Loctite 515 is the same in all countries etc? But the stuff I have is labelled ‘gasket replacement’. I started using this only recently after good recommendation, but I’ve now stopped using it. IMHO it sticks way too well to use WITH gaskets. Removing old gasket material when this stuff has been used is an absolute nightmare and I was really worried about damaging the faces in doing so. Maybe that’s why its called ‘gasket replacement’? Maybe it’s better in a metal to metal application?
 
"Wellseal (imho) is the most British way to do it."
So, use that to have the OEM Norton leaks? :rolleyes:

"The main thing is to not add to the 'British bikes all leak myth/legend."

Don't know about "all British bikes" leaking but from my experience when they were producing them is that ALL Norton Commando's came with leaks/they were not an optional extra! :D
 
I'm in the wellseal camp as well for the Joint halves but I use 518 Loctite between the cast iron cylinder and the case jointing face without a gasket.
Cheers,
Tom
 
Great thread (but kind of like a motor oil thread, a lot of right answers). What's the consensus on gaskets vs no gaskets?
 
You may cast stone at your leisure..... I always used Caterpillar Liquid Gasket on HD cases an never suffered even so much as a seep. Upon my first teardown of one I was initially shocked to discover they used no gasket whatsoever, but soon recovered as I was quite young and easily shocked. If ever My Norton comes down I'll search that or whatever Cat recommends now. I don't venture far from a well known to have sweet water being an asshole of habit.
 
Sealing technology is not what it was 50 years ago
But leaving a gasket off without checking first leaves you open to issues with shimming. I use the best current gaskets, which have also moved on in the last 50 years, plus use 518 one side and grease the other. 518 on non gasket faces.
 
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+1 on Kommando’s points.
Gaskets have a thickness. Assembling things that should have gaskets, without gaskets, means that lack of thickness needs taking into consideration.
I used to try and assemble engines with the fewest gaskets possible. Eventually I realised I was wasting my time and creating work for the sake of it!
Now I’m a firm believer that there’s nowt wrong wi’ gaskets !
Just make sure you use good uns...
 
Wellseal doesn't seem to be that easy to get in US. I couldn't find it on Amazon. Several sources on Ebay but all in UK. Shipping $ almost as much as product.
I was able to order some from Pegasus Auto Racing located in Wisconsin.
 
Wellseal doesn't seem to be that easy to get in US. I couldn't find it on Amazon. Several sources on Ebay but all in UK. Shipping $ almost as much as product.
I was able to order some from Pegasus Auto Racing located in Wisconsin.
I just had a search for a new tube for myself and came across a website hear in Germany which gave me the best offer:
Now that G.B. is out of the EU I cannot say how export duties will affect International customers but it certainly is worth a consideration.
Likewise I source the bulk of my parts from Norton Motors.de but that has been standard anyway.
 
I can't say I have ever had a problem wetting both sides of a gasket with Loctite 515 (Its not toothpaste :D )
My 850 base gasket will get just that in the morning as did the inner gasket on the gearbox.

Even my DR780 got Wellseal at the cam/rocker box to upper cylinder head joint.
It was Hylomar from the late 1970's to I forget when.

Its all good if the oil stays on the inside.

IMG_3150 - Copy.JPG
 
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