Casing jointing compound (2018)

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Woody850

Woody850

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I have been reading through the threads for jointing compounds for crankcase halves and begin to scratch my head as to which to use. Having looked in my cupboard in the garage I find Hylomar (which according to some does not fair very well), Hermetite Red, Berner HSDR 70, Fluid D, Beko SEALCON and Curil which leaves me unable to decide which to use for a crankcase and eventually for the base gasket of a BMW boxer.
In the States there seem to be some very good aircraft quality compounds but I must note that I live in Europe and sourcing could be an expensive undertaking.
In case you wonder why so many have accumulated it has been over many years now and some are used some not.
 
Put my casings together 10 days ago, i used Three bond 1184 not that expensive & really easy to use (and comes highly recommended)
Use all the bolts to hold the casings together, even though most will have to come out again when mounting into the cradle / front ISO carrier
 
Loctite 515 or 518, anaerobic so only sets in the absence of air so any excess stays liquid and wipes off or if internal is washed away by the oil and does not block oilways, plus its seals good too. 518 is for aluminium cases, 515 will work but 518 is preferred.

Q13: Can I substitute LOCTITE 518 Gasket Eliminator for LOCTITE 515 Gasket Maker?
A: These are both anaerobic flange sealants designed for rigid machined flanges. They are similar products with one of the key differences being that LOCTITE 518 is a better product for use on aluminium flanges. Thus, LOCTITE 518 probably can replace LOCTITE 515 for most applications. However, LOCTITE 518 is generally a faster setting anaerobic and it may tend to cure too quickly on very active metals like brass. In this instance, LOCTITE 515 may be a better choice.
 
i use Dirko from elring . it is a grey compound like threebond . it works for me .


Eldert
 
How can I get some to go between the cases without pulling the motor apart ?
 
acotrel said:
How can I get some to go between the cases without pulling the motor apart ?
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u can do a half-ass job or do it right. the surfaces need to be clean. so if they are covered in oil..... all bets are off.

do it right...
 
I,ve always used Permatex Ultra Grey Maximum Torque Gasket Maker [HASHTAG]#82194[/HASHTAG] on crankcase halves and also on the bare metal cylinder to crankcase joint on 850,s.
Clean and degrease, then brush on with stiff 1/4" wide brush and assemble, never had any leaks and will use the Ultra Black version on an upcoming Kaw Z1R motor rebuild.

It,s a silicone type mix and not recommended for contact with petrol though I,ve used it successfully on the carb manifold joints.
Hot oil and even brake fluid won,t worry it and stays oiltight between rebuilds.

Readily available in Europe around 10€ / £9.00 for 99g tube.
 
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Woody850 said:
In the States there seem to be some very good aircraft quality compounds but I must note that I live in Europe and sourcing could be an expensive undertaking.
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Pardon the silly question - I just don't know. Does Amazon exist in Europe? I'm often tempted to tell people in this forum about some product on Amazon but don't because I don't know if you can reasonably order from them.
 
marshg246 said:
Pardon the silly question - I just don't know. Does Amazon exist in Europe? I'm often tempted to tell people in this forum about some product on Amazon but don't because I don't know if you can reasonably order from them.
Click to expand...

Yes it is. And often the shipping cost is surprisingly small (not always). So please go ahead and share any Amazon links for folk.
 
Permatex Motoseal. Great stuff - basically the same as Hondabond, Yamabond, etc. It's non silicone, non hardening so it doesn't end up gluing the parts together as part of the "sealing" process. I have used it to seal/stop leaks on old britbikes, exotic Italian car motors and Detroit Diesel marine 2-strokes. IMO, there is no better test - especially the DD motors! :)

As noted, there is no way to reliably seal leaks from the outside. Parts have to be disassembled/cleaned and mating surfaces checked/trued as needed.
 
Not having used or even seen it, is it somewhat like aviation permatex or wellseal?
 
Put my cases together with Wellseal, both on the Commando and the Atlas. Not that many miles on the Atlas but over 2k on the Commando, and not a dribble. See Mick Hemmings NOC DVD. I also use it on head gaskets, again no leaks. I think a well ventilated crank case is as important as any sealant to prevent leaks.
 
I've used a number of sealers over the years with varying results; none of which lasted as long as I thought they should. I just put a motor together using Three Bond for the first time. It is interesting and very sticky stuff. Others have used it to good success--I have high hopes.

~998cc
 
Fast Eddie said:
Yup, I’m a Wellsealer too...

I decant into a small glass jar and apply it with a small modellers paint brush. Takes a little longer than squinting silicone out of a tube, but is strangely satisfying.
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Yep, same here. It's one of the reasons I like it. As it can be left 24hrs before assembly there's no rush to get the halves together unlike silicone. I can make sure there's some where it's needed and none where it's not. If it's what Mick Hemmings recommends then it's good enough.
 
I used Hylomar and it was a real pain to use. Acetone is the thinner, so it dries in a heartbeat. I couldn't get a good coat on mine so I have leaks. I wouldn't use it again except maybe for small stuff. Fairly expensive too. I'd go with any of the above mentioned that are easy to work with.
 
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