Cafè seat shaping

tjfisher said:

Wow great idea's . The reason I'm trying out different designs and shapes are for comfort and function
I'm sure the first won't be the last I enjoy the build and design so 2-10 won't upset me


@ diablouph ya I plan on setting the tail light in the shell I'm waiting on it so I can shape the second seat and it might work in this one too. And it's led so I'll need to wire the bike by hand for neg ground .

Depending on the space in the final design Im hoping to put the battery ( small cell ) and the main fuse block in the tail section

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If you want to try some different methods and would like more usable space under the cowl, the forming it in alloy is the way to go. It will also save some weight and the appearance of a polished alloy cowl is hard to beat.
The disadvantage of going this route is the amount of work required. Evan Wilcox charges as much as $1400 for a cowl and seat pan. After doing one, I can see why.

Starting point is to make a buck. Run a dividing bulkhead down the centre. Use heavy paper for the stations and just do one side for starters. You'll be able to see if the shape is what you want from one side only. Play around with the curves on the paper stations until the overal shape is faired.





Once you have the shape you want with the paper stations,, which are positioned on the wooden buck base and centre bulkhead by grid lines, remove the paper stations and lay them over top some plywood to be used for the permanent stations. Trace around the paper stations. Make two of each station, one will go on the right hand side, one on the left.
This gives you perfect side to side symmetry automatically, as long as the wooden stations are fastened in the correct spot (on the grid lines)




Start shaping metal. In this case it is .050 5052 Aluminium. An easier choice would be .063 3000 series, but not quite as light and softer, less dent resistant.







Ive got a ton of wiring on this bike and it all fits under there including two fuse boxes and the largest LIthium Ion battery sold by Ballistic. The electrics are all on an independant al. plate that slides out after disconnecting the weatherproof quick connects. There is a bit of room left for the inevitable additions.

I wouldnt call Wolfies poorly shaped. It looks much like the standard Manx seat with an extra inch or so of padding. Ill bet it will be quite comfortable.
Your point about the shape being important is well taken though, especially if the padding is minimal.
Ive ridden on on of those bowl tractor seats, our old Ford 9n had one. The comfort was ok for about 20 minutes, after that give me any kind of foam seat, formed is best but a plain old slab beats the tin bowl!

The cast one in the photo is interesting. After a long day of plowing the butt imprints would be quite impressive.

I wonder if we could do some up with the Norton logo?

Glen

Where'd you score that nice flat connector weartear?
Amend to spend days and days on a holely metal seat, especially this huge gap and edges beauty or one with raised bolt heads even rounded on solid suspension on rough surface and twisted to watch the goings on behind, ie: implements. Btw fore a couple of decade foot inserts and various shoe use sorbathine. Sheets and test sample available.
http://www.sorbothane.com/

Foxy, is that item available with larger meat and veg trays?

Hobot, the flat connectors are Weatherpaks, they are made by Pico and are available in a variety of sizes. Most auto parts stores have them.

Glen

I picked up my seat today, I am really happy how it turned out. It looks great and is quite comfy to sit upon. I'm into it for about $250, and have enough materials left to make another.

worntorn said:

Maybe some long distance riding Corbin owners will chime in.

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I love mine. I've had it for 3+ years and it's very comfortable. Better than the stock seat. It also puts me a little closer to the ground so i can put my feet down flat at stops. Big fan of the corbin.

With the liscense plate and all the wiring it's at 5 pounds.

Yum no wonder its nailed down or would blow right off in a breeze! The off the shelf Old Brits over stuffed solo cafe seats weigh about 6 lb. Have you a total weight yet? Them big meats are hard to heat much w/o leaning on them a good bit for time, after the finish scrubbed off good. Then if not familiar with fatso tires they loose grip on very edges more than the skinny ones do. Do you have to remove the tail light hangers to lift seat to check oil?

THe seat comes off with 4 screws, and the tail light stays on. Oil will be filled at the steering neck and checked on the side of the tank I am building. The seat will be just under 6 pounds with the battery in it.

Very good to read this am Brent. Should really shock and confuse the modern thumb commensor sports bikers no end. Do you plan to take it to share the stares at rallys? My Peel project is hung up - next step requires like a foot and half of Al welding for her cage before other stuff can be fitted. You come to mind often for that job of course.

Round 2 lol !!! Stared shaping the next one with the tail light
Be nice all it's work in progress But I really do want opinions











It looks like the tail is tweeked but I think is optical delusion but I'm not done either lol !!!!

Yes, possibly tweaked and a new tire needed. And don't forget to build up the kicker with some weld so you can actually kick it. The foam will be a great place to put electrics into. Fire retardant I hope.

The foam is just for shaping I'll finish it off in Fiberglass with a fiberglass pan/fender . And it wil be a awesome semi water resistance area for the electrics . I can't wait to get a design I'm happy with so I can start glassing