Cafè seat shaping

Ok so what do you think? First shape was going to shape one maybe two more before I glass one

It may be the photo, but it looks as tho there is maybe a bit of a flat spot or dip in the top line about three inches from the front?

I could not shape mine in foam, just couldnt get side to side symmetry. I made a wooden buck instead, they are easy to make symmetrical.
I did build my tank from a foam pattern, however it was done by someone with artistic talent, I just dont have it!

Glen

I kind of like it but wonder if you've got enough room to sit far enough back, unless ya checked of course. How will you a fasten it down? Racers would just zip tie of course. Harley catalogs have chrome and colored zip ties or some that lie flush w/o the cubic wart.

@ Glen yes the knife got away from me for a second and cut a little to deep but that's no biggie I'll take it out in glass of final shaping . After glass I'll have to skim with filler to make it perfect so I can take that out later.


@ hobot I'm short so it seems to fit right but can never tell until I do seat foam and cover . As for the hold down I was planning to fab a cross bar to hook into the factory shock bolts . It will be kinda like a cross with a bar running front to back and on side to side all moulded into the glass pan

Ludwig that's a great idea thanks I'll work on that, I think I have one or two blocks left that I can shape with or I might leave this one alone a make the second like that and a shorter tail cap .

@ hobot I'm short so it seems to fit right but can never tell until I do seat foam and cover . As for the hold down I was planning to fab a cross bar to hook into the factory shock bolts . It will be kinda like a cross with a bar running front to back and on side to side all moulded into the glass pan

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I'm having fun reading and seeing you creativity, just beware of fit conflicts of using the shock bolts for both seat and hump tabs and the less amount of threads to hold em tight. The Alloy threads in the seat knobs can't take the needed clamp force for very long I found, especially with my luggage rack arms taking up some threads, though a bit less than just seat thin tabs.
Ive epoxied steel nuts inside my knobs but even those let good after a year or 2.

I've seen racers use polyurothane foam in a plastic bag to plant butt in till set up then trimmed up to custom fit with some cushioning added.

I find for serious to dangerous corner loads the farther I can slide back to relieve fork loads the faster and farther over I can go w/o THE Hinge onset in un-tammed factory isolastic Cdo's. Hard as I've dared I can not control an un-tammed factory isolastic Commando to handle-keep up with modern solid mounted engine bikes in sweepers over 80 mph, where power has nothing to do with the modern advantage in handling. The wild thing is Cdo can feel just fine until some minor road undulation onsets THE Horror, So just because they can be made to look like race level bike don't be surprised too bad to find it ain't really.

Ludwig is right and the slope down at front is very important. The way the seatpan is now with the slope up to meet tank top would be torture on even a 20 mile ride.
Even better would be a cutout and dropped area like the new bicycle seats have. They are made in male and female versions, which makes sense.
Why not do the same with a motorcycle seat?
Those Manx seats with the cutaway for the oil tank access killed two birds with one stone or should I say killed one bird and saved two stones?

Glen

worntorn said:

Ludwig is right and the slope down at front is very important. The way the seatpan is now with the slope up to meet tank top would be torture on even a 20 mile ride.
Even better would be a cutout and dropped area like the new bicycle seats have. They are made in male and female versions, which makes sense.
Why not do the same with a motorcycle seat?
Those Manx seats with the cutaway for the oil tank access killed two birds with one stone or should I say killed one bird and saved two stones?

Glen

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Then again he seems to be emulating the shape of the Corbin. It's not about the slope up to the tank but the shape as it slopes.

I'd suggest you get some measurements on a Corbin to give you reference. Or get a Corbin if you want the easy way out.

Ive heard a few complaints about discomfort with the Corbin when used for long distances. Maybe some long distance riding Corbin owners will chime in.
Might depend on the riding position as well. With an upright riding position it could be Ok, with rear sets and clipons it looks like torture down below.
Glen

worntorn said:

Ive heard a few complaints about discomfort with the Corbin when used for long distances. Maybe some long distance riding Corbin owners will chime in.
Might depend on the riding position as well. With an upright riding position it could be Ok, with rear sets and clipons it looks like torture down below.
Glen

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Actually I think it's the opposite, with rear sets and UK bars it's quite comfortable. Not sure about clip ons.

Maybe Im built off kilter then, because I have clipons, rearsets and a seat that rolls up at the front much like a Corbin, only less, and it isnt working. The seat is rounded in the back like the red line drawn by Ludwig. That part is very comfy. The rise up in the front is the problem for me.

Ordered the Apex bars to roll the body back a bit and may do some custom seat sculpting. This is not on a Commando tho, so the dimensions are different. The Apex riser bars are very adjustable in different directions plus give anywhere from 0 to 4" rise.



Glen

worntorn said:

Maybe Im built off kilter then, because I have clipons, rearsets and a seat that rolls up at the front much like a Corbin, only less, and it isnt working. The seat is rounded in the back like the red line drawn by Ludwig. That part is very comfy. The rise up in the front is the problem for me.

Ordered the Apex bars to roll the body back a bit and may do some custom seat sculpting. This is not on a Commando tho, so the dimensions are different. The Apex riser bars are very adjustable in different directions plus give anywhere from 0 to 4" rise.

Glen

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Three possibilities:

1. You're hung like an elephant with matching testicles.
2. You're arm/leg ratio may make the seat uncomfortable. Perhaps you have really short arms and legs? Or perhaps short arms and long legs or, well, you get the point. All of these factors will determine your attitude on any bike. Some will fit and some won't.
3. As you mentioned the seat you tried wasn't on a Commando or isn't a Corbin. The spacial dimensions are going to be different.

Try a Commando with a Corbin. They are very common and you should be able to find many variations.

Are you going to put the stop light in the shell?

Ive been reading some of the reports on the Corbin Gunfighters fitted to Commandos. Some like them, quite a number dont.

I think Ill stay with the stock Mk111 seat instead, its very comfortable.

As for the other bike, the adjustable bars might do it, will report back.
One way or another Ill make a comfortable long distance machine out of it. Ive got 900, 1700 and 3200 mile round trips to do on the bike this summer. At 57 years old, Im beyond riding in discomfort for those kinds of distances.

Probably should be on a Goldwing, but not quite ready for a Grampy bike just yet.



Glen

Wow great idea's . The reason I'm trying out different designs and shapes are for comfort and function
I'm sure the first won't be the last I enjoy the build and design so 2-10 won't upset me


@ diablouph ya I plan on setting the tail light in the shell I'm waiting on it so I can shape the second seat and it might work in this one too. And it's led so I'll need to wire the bike by hand for neg ground .

Depending on the space in the final design Im hoping to put the battery ( small cell ) and the main fuse block in the tail section

Here is what I have done. I am waiting for it to come back from the upholstery shop. I made an aluminum base, with nutplates and adel clamps to mount it to the frame rails. An access panel with dzus fasteners for the battery (http://www.ebay.com/itm/BALLISTIC-PERFO ... 359wt_1396) and nut plates to mount my tail light and liscense plate. I purchased half a cow to cover it for about $50 off eBay.

Here are some pictures. It was pretty comfy to sot on while I was doing the shaping. I am also running my wiring inside the seat.

Looks like you are or were an A and P?

Affirmative. I was full time until 4 years ago, then part time until 2 years ago. Had to let the IA expire this year.

Wolfie, that seat looks like it would have a good comfort level, lots of foam thickness there.
It looks like the medium density foam which most motorcycle squabs are made from?

If you dont have the luxury of that much thickness of foam, then there are some higher density types available. I have some skinny little Sammy Miller seats on my Trials bikes. Apparently Sammy didnt know about the high density foam or felt it was for sissies who should learn to always stand when riding a trials bike. Too bad, the original Ossa seats where pretty decent, just regular foam but 3" thick vs maybe 1" for the Sammy Miller item, which the sales rep promised was a perfect match to the original!

Glen

I got the foam from my upholsterer. He does mostly boat stuff. So it's boat seat foam. It is very comfy and shapes nicely. I am getting very excited to see the finished product, just waiting for the call.