Well, you know how I said I thought the replica lens might not be the same because the original lens didn't fit? Apparently I didn't take into account that the mounting brackets were a wee messed up from the hit. :?
Anyways, on to the installation. I will say the instructions left a little to be desired. I would have liked a little more details. But that's what you have me for, right? This is for the earlier tail lights. You'll have to wait until I get an 850 for the other style.
So here's the tail light. As noted it's a replica. I have an original one but the instructions said that the replicas would be easier to work with. I'm not sure if this is true or not.
The first step is to remove the reflector. That is about all the instructions said. Other than a Dremel might work better than side cutters. Actually I found the side cutters to work just fine. What you don't want to do is what I did and cut too far. You want to leave the housing area on the back of the light intact.
As you can see if you snip and twist you should be able to remove the reflector. The instructions said to make a notch at the bottom of the reflector but didn't give much detail. I could have studied it closer I guess.
Once the reflector was out I took some pliers and recrimped down the lip so that the back housing wasn't loose. While it doesn't make a difference it would be one less thing to rattle.
The instructions said to insulate the back of the LED board so I covered it with electrical tape. Not elegant. :|
Next I pulled out the wires.
Noticed I've also straighted out the lens mounting tabs. You won't have this problem.
Pull the new wires through. They said White on one side and the Brown and Green on the other. I don't know why.
Attach the three wires. White is Brake (no idea why white, isn't that usually switched power? Green is ground. I think that is typically Red or Black (depending on ground polarity). And Brown is Running Light. That was actually closest to the Norton wiring, not sure about other bikes.
Using the shorter of the supplied bolts you thread the bolts in (but not too far) put the thinner of the nylon spacers on, and then screw the bolts the rest of the way.
You may need to start the supplied nuts on before getting the bolts all the way in. WIth my tabs not perfect one side worked and the other didn't.
When I was done this is what was left over from the kit.
I took this opportunity to tidy up my wiring. I still don't like it. The LED board requires a ground wire and they provide a fitting for this. I made a jumper to my ground wire I have for the turn signals.
And anyone see my first problem? I've emailed them to see if this is warrantable. Otherwise it looks great.
The running light is fine but the brake light is really bright.
Is it worth the effort and cost? I don't know. I was hoping for a brighter light (which I got), less power draw (this I also got) and longer bulb life (haven't lost a bulb yet but the thrashing the tail light takes I can't imagine them lasting 4 ever). :mrgreen: I don't like the way the wires wrap over the top of the board. They could theoretically rub and short here. While I have ground wires I don't think the instructions mentioned how to properly ground the light if you don't. WIth better instructions it would have taken me a less time. It took me about an hour but remember I was also documenting the process for you, my dear readers.
So now the biggest electrical draws I have are the headlight and Boyer. Going to a different ignition can lessen one of those.
