boyer bransden horn issue...

No... Only because all turn sigs and brake lights are led's... The 60w headlight is nice and bright tho... But i can see it blink a little at idle... Somehow tripping the relay I have the turn signals and a small incandescent turn signal bulb hooked up to.... Which is extra weird considering the relay is branched off the main power and grounded separately... Still no work around without a battery, despite the options for 'small' ones?

Yoose guy just don't get it yet. No battery means no battery and adding a battery size horn that needs a battery to work is just as ridiculous of thinking you ain't risking life and limb soon as seated or even within reach of a cycle. Chris adds more evidence to your false sense of safety yet still risks rides. As I've still got a toe hold on survival sense of fear spikes, I am in camp with LOUDest, Brightest and appropriate aggressive behavior riders so will carry a battery, even in special events as can be lighter than the charger. After you have battery slung out with side cover or bounced to break its ties to drain out on its side or so old dead must disconnect, No battery is just another way to run em with some care, not to let go of throttle while on horn and brake at same time as hi beam on. If you have not ridden about sans battery you have missed out on part of vintage cycle scope.

hobot said:

Yoose guy just don't get it yet. No battery means no battery and adding a battery size horn that needs a battery to work is just as ridiculous of thinking you ain't risking life and limb soon as seated or even within reach of a cycle. Chris adds more evidence to your false sense of safety yet still risks rides. As I've still got a toe hold on survival sense of fear spikes, I am in camp with LOUDest, Brightest and appropriate aggressive behavior riders so will carry a battery, even in special events as can be lighter than the charger. After you have battery slung out with side cover or bounced to break its ties to drain out on its side or so old dead must disconnect, No battery is just another way to run em with some care, not to let go of throttle while on horn and brake at same time as hi beam on. If you have not ridden about sans battery you have missed out on part of vintage cycle scope.

Click to expand...

Do tell... help us unnahstand... :lol:

BB ignitions require at least 7 volts to work properly, you also need the power storage of a battery to reliably work the horn, it just seems to me that to put a battery into the circuit would

A help starting

B give you a reliable horn

Concours its fairly risky stupid to ride w/o good horn and lights but its not much more stupid than to ride at all, so logic requires flippant attitude anything goes until you are taken out of the equation by natural causes or motorcycle caused. This is a NO Battery thread so illogical to suggest things that require a battery and other stuff on top of that. If you can get a black box analog boyah to behave below 10-ish volts you have a very special boyah compared to mine, I don't ever care to use again, so sold off long ago but its still working a treat last decade now in NY Combat. W/o a battery I could rarely barely kS my Peel at times but if towed to about 20 mph no problemo unless I let rpm too low for voltage. My compromise solution was a 1.2 ah gell cell alarm battery that could slip in my back pocket to carry off to charger at rallys to KS out of there. I had a color change LED in lamp shell so could keep a bit track of voltage balance gain or loss. Contact breakers in my current Combat allow KS w/o battery just the blue can and swift kick.