blue can capacitor

Not open for further replies.
Aug 24, 2005
Having just fitted a high output alternator and Podtronics reg./ rect. unit, I find not much room in the battery area, is the 2MC "blue can" capacitor necessary?, can it be bypassed?, I left it out of the circuit but got no ign. / lights, back in circuit and power is back on, I have it mounted on it's original spring but now horizontal -- the manual says to have the terminals pointing downward. Any ideas / solutions will be appreciated. Ride safely. James.

The "blue can" is actually a capacitor. It's used to help start the bike when the battery is dead. You don't need this capacitor as long as the battery is charged.

Does your red charge-warning light still work with the podtronics unit? and does it do away with the warning light assimilator? I was thinking of installing one of these units but couldn't find any details on this modification. It is certainly a lot cheaper than the Boyer unit.
If the capacitor is to be left out of the circuit, the two wires that connect to the common lug on the capacitor have to be hooked together. If you don't, you will have no ignition power.

I did this two years ago when I installed an RM23/Podtronics on Pop's bike and a Sparx 3-phase alternator on my own.

Shortly after installing the Sparx, my assimilator died. I installed a battery status monitor from Sterling Motor Works in it's place.

I am thoroughly satisfied with both the Sparx and the BSM.


Thanks for the feedback fella's.
DaveM, the Pod. unit still allows the ign. warning light,it does not do away with the assimilator,although Derek Wilson has successfully modified his system using a battery status monitor,more info Derek, please. Good to know that the capacitor can be by-passed if need be. Great resources in this site. Ride safely. James.
I am running the Sparx 3phase alt and power box. I have a new WL assimilator from Andover - removed the blue capacitator. It all plays nice and works beautifully...
Just need to sort our the carbs and deal with the coming winter snow... :wink:

How did you wire your three-phase Sparx with the stock assimilator? Is it the solid state Mk3 one or the old mechanical can type?

The stock assimilator takes AC current direct from the alternator. With the three phase you have three legs from the stator. Did you just pick two?

I was told by Bob Kizer (Podtronics) that this would not work. I'm using a Lucas RM24 three-phase with the Podtronics on my Interstate. I have a small cube solid state device from RGM that measures the DC volts at the battery and turns on the warning light under 12.5 volts and over something like 14 volts. (Don't have the spec sheet handy) It works, but I'm curious to know that the OEM device works with three phase.

The new WLA is solid state (circuit board surrounded in rubber in a 35mm film canister). I asked Nick at Andover about compatibility with the 3-phase and here are his responses...

"Yes, it's solid-state. The original Lucas one has a thermo-mechanical switch inside which is prone to self-destruction.
Lucas no longer make them so we commissioned our own."

"the assimilator simply "looks" at the charging situation and tells you yes or no - the charging current doesn't actually pass through it."

I believe I just choose two leads from the alt, but I would have to double check the bike to be sure.

Hmmm, the MkIII assimilators were flat, potted solid state devices and seem to be still available ($30 from Old Britts). I guess when they are gone, the film can device will be all that's available.

There is a diagram of how to make a solid state assimilator in one of the older INOA Tech Digests. I tried my hand a few years ago. Never was much good with electronics. Others, however, claimed they did it. It fit inside of the stock can and looked original. I gave up after a couple tries and bought a MkIII one (066393).

It's good to know that it will work with a 3-phase as I have a couple more RM24/Podtronics to install. I'll use the MkIII assimilator next time.
Al Osborne in England makes a solid state unit to replace assimilator, this works by lighting warning light when voltage drops to certain level. This is cheap & works well, I have used one for a few years. If anyone wants details of Al Oz I will find them out
That sounds like the device I bought from RGM that I'm using with the RM24/Podtronics three phase. Works fine.
The capacitor isn't essential, but is will allow the bike to run without the throw away the battery and run without the damn thing....then you will have lots of room under the seat for all sorts of things.
Not open for further replies.