Best "fix" for stripped carb float bowl threads?

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L.A.B. said:
I have repaired a float bowl thread using M5 metric (coarse).

As M5 is only slightly larger diameter than 2BA (4.7mm) and M5 coarse pitch (0.8 mm) is almost identical to 2BA (0.81 mm).

I had one screw's threads that stripped on a carb body. For a while I backed it up with a nut that I ground the side off of so it would fit over the hole. Eventually I decided to risk ruining a sleeved carb and tap both the holes to M5 x 0.8mm. It worked perfectly. I didn't even drill the old threads out. I took the carb off the bike and ran the M5 x 0.8 tap right over the 2BA threads and got a good result on both holes.

*****I bought stainless button head screws at Mcmaster carr in M5 x 0.8 but the head width was a little too wide to fit without pressing against the side of the bowl, so I chucked them in my drill press and held a file against them while they spun to grind the 9.5mm head down to a narrower head. I've taken the bowls on and off a dozen or more times when I was having sticky float issues without any problems stripping the new threads... I really like the allen head rather than the flat heads because the screw balances better when you are threading it against gravity..

Best "fix" for stripped carb float bowl threads?
 
If you take a threaded bolt or set screw and hit it on two sides you'll basically squash it, and thus widen it. You can then screw it back in to its old hole whereby it will cut a little more thread as you do so.

It's a good 'get you home bodge' although sometimes they have become perment 'modifications' ...

I of course, would never do anything so heinous ...
 
When you get that screw sorted, just nip them up gently and put the long thin cable tie around both bowl screws. Thin twitch wire works just as well. Does anyone have a better way of locking those screws against vibration?
Ta.
 
I have tired a few things to keep my bowls from falling off which can not be detected until ya slow down to stop or or tried to re start at gas stations till seeing/smelling the reason for not started or if started having to blip up to stay running. Locite will eat the screw slots up trying to turm em against that so only use a smear of RTV of your favorite color. There are epoxy thread repair kits I have used to fix TS cover case screw threads and worked a treat so over kill sufficient for mere carb threads. Could JBW and retap too but JBW is more brittle in this thin application than the epoxy made for this and no drilling required but may be used to open hole up some to accept more goop for better fill in long term. Teflon tape comes apart and must be replaced each time and tends to pile up inside threads so taboo for me anymore. If ya loose a bowl screw can steal one form the carb cap to carry on, If you have tools to access it away from home.
https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=ep ... ead+repair
 
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