ballsat resistor

Hello gents! Im hooking up my wire harness and boyer ignition to my 74 850. i have white wire from the boyer going to to the white blue which goes to the l handed kill switch (white and yellow) does this need to go to the ballast resistor too? also what else hooks to the ballast? or do i even need the ballast? thx tons!!!! rob

With Boyer and other electro box ignitions you bypass-trash the ballast resistor and the points condensors too as the brain box controls coils and back lash. Feed white power wire from bar kill switch straight to Boyer. Earth the head if not already. Keep the big blue can as helps battery spike current to horn and Boyer needs.
Realize the Boyer trigger plate wires are only for initial start up and road testing, they have an expiration date built in to show up about time youforgetabout em.
Search up Boyer trigger wire upgrades to brew your own on get kit from
Greg Fauth Norton Bsa <norbsa@hotmail.com>

thx greg! so no wires to condensor or ballast. I got a wiring harness and headset harness from old britts. I studied the wiring diagramd set uo rectifier, ignitiom switch etc... how they are supposed to be and no juice whatsoever!!!! ive gone though the wires 20 times all match up with good connections. brand new battery too. the prvious owner had the brake lights and signal removed so i thought to replace them!!! ugg what a pain. im just confused as to were to begin. frusturated, rob

hobot said:

Feed white power wire from bar kill switch straight to Boyer.

Click to expand...

White [W] is power to the handlebar kill switch/button, white/yellow [WY] from the switch to Boyer white.

flanker850 said:

I got a wiring harness and headset harness from old britts. I studied the wiring diagramd set uo rectifier, ignitiom switch etc... how they are supposed to be and no juice whatsoever!!!!

Click to expand...

Power should be getting to the ignition switch from the battery and fuse through the brown/blue [NU] wire so check the various brown/blue connections for volts?

If there's no 2MC (blue can) emergency starting capacitor fitted, then an addtitional jumper wire may need to be connected between the two brown/blue wire connectors that would normally go to the 2MC.

How about looking on the Boyer site.

I know the black box analog Boyer can start w/o a battery or the blue can, just can't hardly kick it off fast enough so requires a good rolling start by help of kids, a downhill slope or holding a PU truck side to over 25 mph. Don't forgetabout the trigger wires lurking. Boyers have a bit sluggish response rise but most do last decades, ugh.

L.A.B. said:

hobot said:

Feed white power wire from bar kill switch straight to Boyer.

Click to expand...

White [W] is power to the handlebar kill switch/button, white/yellow [WY] from the switch to Boyer white.

flanker850 said:

I got a wiring harness and headset harness from old britts. I studied the wiring diagramd set uo rectifier, ignitiom switch etc... how they are supposed to be and no juice whatsoever!!!!

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

Power should be getting to the ignition switch from the battery and fuse through the brown/blue [NU] wire so check the various brown/blue connections for volts?

If there's no 2MC (blue can) emergency starting capacitor fitted, then an addtitional jumper wire may need to be connected between the two brown/blue wire connectors that would normally go to the 2MC.[/quote

Hmmmmmm. I have the WY going to my boyer white. plus the switch worked I checked it with my meter. basically I took the ground from the meter clipped it to the engine and put the neg on the YW, hit the kill switch and the current stopped. The W from the handle bar feeds into a 4 unit connector which is then connected to the W from the ignition switch.

I have a blue capacitor in front and near the battery.

NU at the ignition switch has volts. Im turning this thing into a paper weight fast. Sad too because I did everything else well. cluch, layshaft bearing, rebuilt gearbox, primary chain, mikuni carb.....i was on a major hot streak. Ive never messed with electrical before though. any other thigs i should check. Is it correct to rig the meter with red on froame and walk the positive up the wires? I get some current even when the bike is off???? weird? thx rob

flanker850 said:

Is it correct to rig the meter with red on froame and walk the positive up the wires?

Click to expand...

For positive ground, with the meter set to DC Volts, the red meter probe is positive so connects to ground, and the negative is used to probe to the wiring.

flanker850 said:

I get some current even when the bike is off????

Click to expand...

Where?

I get 12 volts everywhere!!! i think that means my battery is in circuit with whatever on touching and maybe not a true read in actual voltage????

With key off and reading 12 v everywhere I'd 1st suspect my meter connection miss connected. White wire from kill switch connectes to ballast resistor then a blue/white wire leaves ballast to feed ignition points or Boyer. I forgot to mention the blue white wire as my Trixie is New Orleans re-wired so she's got an all blue final wire feeding ignition but didn't confuse me a bit. Put your meter red lead on same side of battery as its +red Earth side, ie: frame-engine-cradle-tranny-handle bars-headlamp shell-plastic chrome signal stems return paths. Not a bad id to provide a neg lead off battery that's easy to reach to hook a battery charger to w/o having to open the side cover. Some put a -/+ two wire battery charge connection somewhere for this routine need in storage or before a long slowish traffic commute.

hobot said:

White wire from kill switch connectes to ballast resistor

Click to expand...

White/Yellow! [WY] :roll:

hobot said:

then a blue/white wire leaves ballast to feed ignition points or Boyer.

Click to expand...

As you said yourself (above) there isn't any ballast resistor if electronic ignition is fitted.

White/Blue [WU] (white wire with blue tracer) not "blue/white" feeds from the connector block (where it connects to white/yellow) to the ballast resistor for the standard points ignition also the wire from the ballast resistor to the coils is commonly White/purple (although not marked as such on the wiring diagram) however for electronic ignition, the original coil wiring is normally disconnected.

Thx tons!!! I got the electrical system going pretty well. that was a bear though!!! appreciate all the advice. I read all about electrics and the multimeter. My bike is running but i need to adjust the carb/throttle! its stalling a bit and does not idle really well yet. But it was just a quick test run. Rob

flanker850 said:

Thx tons!!! I got the electrical system going pretty well. that was a bear though!!! appreciate all the advice. I read all about electrics and the multimeter. My bike is running but i need to adjust the carb/throttle! its stalling a bit and does not idle really well yet. But it was just a quick test run. Rob

Click to expand...

These bikes will not idle well till warmed up. Don't go tinkering with a cold motor, you'll get a bad reading.

You likely already know to keep your battery charged up.

The older analog boyers draw more than the newer micro digital ones.