Atypical sump question

Got kinda lost doin' a sump search, imagine that...came close to an answer, but didn't...
I pulled my sump plug, and it's been out a good week, I didn't get a chance to
get right back to it as I usually do. So of course it's completely empty, it's never
been a concern before as my normal procedure is to let it drain until it's a drip
and then replace the plug, put oil in the tank and start it.
Do I need to kick it through a few times before I
start it ? Or do I need to pull the tank and remove the hose and pour some oil
down the line for a "pre-prime" ? Just don't want to starve anything.

I always kick it over till I see oil return in tank. May not have to but feel better knowing system is purged of air. Take the plugs out for easier kick!!!

Thanks Gene.

This topic is usually found in a search for "wet sumping".

But, the easiest way to know if you should be concerned is to check the oil tank level when you get where you're going, but be aware that hot oil can burn you (you knew that). Take a dipstick reading and note the level keeping in mind that hot oil does expand some. Do the same check before you ride off. If the level is significantly lower you'll see it; the missing tank oil is in the sump.

You can get quite a bit more empirical at your next oil change. Drain the hot oil check the sump plug for metal, let the bike cool. With a very clean measuring cup under the open sump add 1 quart of new oil, mark the dipstick. Now add 1/2 a quart, mark the stick, you get the picture.

When you have finished adding the new oil have a look at the measuring cup, that will give you a good, but rough idea of your wet sumping condition is, but do keep in mind that hot oil will find its way in the sump much faster.

Don't be worrying about "priming" the oil return, if your engine was returning oil it will continue to do so; I watch, like a hawk, with a new engine and have nothing against those who make the observation part of the pre-ride check. The better check would be to loosen one of the rocker banjo bolts and see if oil is trying to escape, but beware it's potentially very messy check; an oil pressure gage is much better. If the gage doesn't move in 10 seconds or less, then you have a problem.

Best.

Thank You for that Scholar. As stated, I didn't quite find my answer doing the search,
my main concern was a completely dry lower end on start-up.
A very good concise explanation to evaluate it that makes a lot of sense. At 52 years old, and 44
of them with me, my Fastback can be excused for it's malady ! ...(and at 60, I've got MY share !)

I wouldn't worry much about it. Pull the plugs and kick it over a few times if you want a little bit of extra oil in the sump before firing it up. Draining the sump won't drain the oil film off the bearings if using motorcycle oil, or oil in the 20-50 Wt. range. The rotating assembly is not completely dry on an engine that has been run previously. Besides as soon as you screw the sump plug back in and pour oil into the oil tank, the wet sump process starts all over again, unless you have an oil input side shut off valve between the oil tank and engine that is closed.

My engine has full oil pressure at the rocker spindles in about 2 seconds and I do use an oil input side shut off valve to prevent excessive wet sump when the bike is parked. I open the valve about 5 minutes before I start my engine (not sure if it does any real good opening it 5 minutes before starting, but I do it anyway), and I also kick my engine over key off a few times to get fuel into the combustion chambers. I would imagine that process moves some oil around. Every once in a while I'll take a look inside the oil tank to see if the return oil is dribbling back in. Always is.

Thanks Schwany, yes, Your'e right of course, the process starts all over again....
as do other "processes" in life ! I appreciate Your time and info.

Here is why the spring loaded AWS valves are not good:


Basically, the type of pump we have does not generate much of a suction so if the supply hose is dry, it can take a long time for any oil to reach the pump.
I, like others here, run a manual ball valve with an ign circuit shut off if valve is closed.

Wow, impressive demonstration. Internals have to be very thirsty by
the time it gets to them. Thank You, yes the ignition shut off is probably the route
I need to go as well.

Tornado said:

Here is why the spring loaded AWS valves are not good:

MEDIA=youtube
Basically, the type of pump we have does not generate much of a suction so if the supply hose is dry, it can take a long time for any oil to reach the pump.
I, like others here, run a manual ball valve with an ign circuit shut off if valve is closed.

Click to expand...

That's worrying. My auto valve must go and soon. Thanks for posting.