Attaching a Pre-1971 wheel to a 1973 swingarm

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elk

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Jan 13, 2009
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I'm trying to fit a pre-1971 wheel to a 1973 swingarm and things are off a bit. The brake plate stop peg does not stick out from the wheel far enough to slide into the swingarm slot - it is about 1/16" away from the swingarm edge. The wheel and chain alignment looks pretty good and the left axle is inserted into the swingarm as far as it will go, even without the spacer, so alignment doesn't appear to be the problem.

Since everything lines up ok, my solution is to weld a few small blocks on the inside of the swingarm to create a slot for the peg. Has anyone else run into this and come up with a different solution, or an idea of something else to try?

I've attached a picture showing the brake. Thanks for any input.

--Bill

Attaching a Pre-1971 wheel to a 1973 swingarm


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Kinda looks as if the axle is not all the way into the swingarm, Undo the nut and try turning the axle till it goes into the swingarm.
 
Hi there, it seems you had an Atlas (or featherbed rear back plate ), look at the protruding shoulder where the cam pivot is , it's atlas and thus the "peg " which engaged into the slots of the swingarm is not longer as the commando should be..........my two cents.The frozingfrog.
 
Marinatlas may be correct, I have just checked a couple of backing plates that I know to be Commando and the brake peg is 5/8" long on the flat part on both.
 
i have fitted a mk2 rear wheel into a mk3 swinging arm and i had to weld a locating slot onto the swinging arm No big deal Sorry i cannot post pics but can email some I since cut it back of to fit other wheels(disc brakes)
 
Just been out to the fridge I call a garage - The torque stop appears to be in the same relative position as yours, but is long enough to go completely through the swing arm, so I would agree with Marinatlas and Dave. You need 060325 TORQUE STOP PIN - about £3 from NMG.
 
Usually the shock bolt head is practically touching the brake backing plate. I vote for the spacer being too thick. The shock bolts on this bike look to be very long and the heads are thick. Normally the heads are thinner so the brake backing plate can get even closer.
 
The shock mounting bolt on the left side is a special thin head bolt, specifically to fit into the mounting slot on the chain guard. On my MkI the left spacer is about 10mm thick.
 
Thanks everyone. The bolts that I'm using on the shocks are plain old bolts that I'm using to dry fit everything - I've got a whole bike full of mismatched or missing parts and I'll order some nice shiny bits after I have everything attached.

My torque stop pin is only 1/4". The 5/8" pin will solve my problem.

I'm going to keep the existing spacer. That spacer extends just under 1/8" past the round part of the axle, so the most that I could reduce the spacer is about 1/16". I won't need the shock bolt with the thin head, but will probably get one anyway to cleanup the look.

Thanks again,
Bill
 
Elk, If you need a pin I have a 5/8" one I can send you cheap if you pay the shipping. Make sure the spacer that goes in between the swingarm and the plate is 3/8" thick, Also have one of those. Let me know, Chuck.
 
With your current spacer and drum/sprocket, does the chain align with the gearbox sprocket? It certainly looks like it is too far inboard, but photos can be deceiving.
 
Hortons - I need to order a few other things and I'll include the pin on that order. OldBrits has a few used at $3. Thanks for the offer.

Ron - The drum to gearbox sprocket alignment looks good. The wheel could actually be moved away from the swingarm just a bit. I took that picture off to the left side of the bike, so it is a little deceiving.

--Bill
 
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