I think I know what I should do, but I sure would appreciate some advice on this one –
The valve below came from my ’74 Roadster, it was ‘resting’ from ’82 ‘til ’08. After resurrection per Fred Eaton’s’ check list, it had a minor ‘tick’, seemed to come from the drive side exhaust. Figuring a fatigued spring might be the culprit (26 years possibly at full compression?), I pulled the head and this is what the top of the valve looked like:
Still thinking fatigued spring, I went all in, with new guides, valves, springs, and mushroom adjusters. Guide & seat machine work done by a local guy with an excellent reputation.
Got it back together, and I still have the ‘tick’. Damn. Set the clearance to a “tight” 0.008, and it keeps on ticking. Double damn.
Soooo, I read a bunch of past posts on geometry. Stared at the engine awhile. Stared at the old valve awhile.
Looked at the adjuster/valve contact point with the new stuff, looks the same as the old stuff. So does the scrub path.
Measured the extension of all four adjusters in the rocker arms, and this one is .028” higher, meaning the rocker is closer to the valve stem than the other three.
After all that, I’m thinking I probably need to take about 0.012-.0.014” off of each end of the pushrod. Does it sound like I'm going the right way with this, or should I be looking at something else before cutting metal?
The valve below came from my ’74 Roadster, it was ‘resting’ from ’82 ‘til ’08. After resurrection per Fred Eaton’s’ check list, it had a minor ‘tick’, seemed to come from the drive side exhaust. Figuring a fatigued spring might be the culprit (26 years possibly at full compression?), I pulled the head and this is what the top of the valve looked like:
Still thinking fatigued spring, I went all in, with new guides, valves, springs, and mushroom adjusters. Guide & seat machine work done by a local guy with an excellent reputation.
Got it back together, and I still have the ‘tick’. Damn. Set the clearance to a “tight” 0.008, and it keeps on ticking. Double damn.
Soooo, I read a bunch of past posts on geometry. Stared at the engine awhile. Stared at the old valve awhile.
Looked at the adjuster/valve contact point with the new stuff, looks the same as the old stuff. So does the scrub path.
Measured the extension of all four adjusters in the rocker arms, and this one is .028” higher, meaning the rocker is closer to the valve stem than the other three.
After all that, I’m thinking I probably need to take about 0.012-.0.014” off of each end of the pushrod. Does it sound like I'm going the right way with this, or should I be looking at something else before cutting metal?