Amal carbs

Hi,
I suspect my Mk2 has this problem as it idles well when cold but consistently hangs up at about 2000rpm when hot.
So where does the warping occur in the body? In what dimension do they go out of shape? Is it down low in the choke?
In the photo of the Amal on the press, is a mandrill being pushed through the throat of the carby, it’s a bit hard to see from the picture.
id like to have a go at trueing mine up but am unsure how.
any explanations greatfully accepted
Alan
 
Hi,
I suspect my Mk2 has this problem as it idles well when cold but consistently hangs up at about 2000rpm when hot.
So where does the warping occur in the body? In what dimension do they go out of shape? Is it down low in the choke?
In the photo of the Amal on the press, is a mandrill being pushed through the throat of the carby, it’s a bit hard to see from the picture.
id like to have a go at trueing mine up but am unsure how.
any explanations greatfully accepted
Alan
Pull the top off your Amal and disconnect the cable and from the slide and move it up and down in the bore and see where it sticks, do each carb at a time to see which one is sticking not a hard job.
How long has it been since you have service your Amals as jets and needle do wear, I be pulling the carbs off the bike and go through them.

Ashley
 
Hi
Pull the top off your Amal and disconnect the cable and from the slide and move it up and down in the bore and see where it sticks, do each carb at a time to see which one is sticking not a hard job.
How long has it been since you have service your Amals as jets and needle do wear, I be pulling the carbs off the bike and go through them.

Ashley
Hi Ash,
Thank you for your reply
Ive had them off numerous times and everything looks good. The bike starts well, with a tickle when cold and quickly settles down to a lovely even idle. The bike’s fuel consumption is a little heavier than I would expect at about 50mpg albeit with spirited country riding and one very oversized rider. It certainly is acceptable. However as soon as it warms up the idle hangs up around 2000rpm. interestingly when I stop it when hot I’m sure I can hear both slides click down all the way inside the carburettor which I find really confusing. I can’t reproduce any tightness of the slides when the carbs are on the bench but I guess they are cold and not under stress bolted to the manifold. I can’t see any witness marks where the slides a rubbing.
I might be guilty of over tightening the carburettors in the distant past but now I’m very careful not to do that.
I am really perplexed, it acts like the slides are hanging up but all evidence indicates they are not. So the question is, if the slides are returning to their closed position where is the engine getting the extra air/fuel to run at 2000rpm.
As 99% of my riding is in the country i have put up with it, though it does make riding through a town a little unpleasant not to mention it must put e tra load on the brakes.
I guess the simple solution is to buy a new pair of Premium Amals but i would still like to know what’s going on.
Again, any thoughts greatly appreciated
 
What happens after a spirited run on a hot day, stopped for four or fife minutes, like for a fuel up? Give the throttle a twist to full and see if they snap shut again on their own. I had a heat soak issue that locked up the slide on a single amal setup. Touching float bowl while still lockup up and it was too hot to touch with bare fingers. Within a another minute or so it snapped shut as it cooled back down.
I fitted the thicker type phenolic insulators at intake to manifold flanges and a thinner type to carb to manifold (previously only had the thin ones at head) this prevented it ever happening again, bowl stayed much cooler.

Since gone to dual carbs and still run thicker insulators at head, o-rings at carbs.

From your description maybe it is not a sticking slide at all and just some fueling issue when warm? Heating of fuel in bowls may lead to a leaned out mixture into engine. Higher rpm at idle.
 
Hi,
I suspect my Mk2 has this problem as it idles well when cold but consistently hangs up at about 2000rpm when hot.
So where does the warping occur in the body? In what dimension do they go out of shape? Is it down low in the choke?
In the photo of the Amal on the press, is a mandrill being pushed through the throat of the carby, it’s a bit hard to see from the picture.
id like to have a go at trueing mine up but am unsure how.
any explanations greatfully accepted
Alan
Make sure the outer cables dont have too much free board in the plastic junction ,one can become half cocked and hold the slide up out of sync with the other . Cheers .
 
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Hi Al have a look at your springs in the slides they could have lost a bit of spring to them and could need a bit more stretch in them or replace with new or stronger springs I had this problem way back in the early 90s as the slides were a bit slow in dropping back down fully, also look at the O rings in your carb adjusters or anywhere air could be leaking into the carbs, are you running with chokes or none, back in the early days with my new Norton mine would idle a lot higher on hot days while out riding and stopping, I sorted this out by installing a Lochard oil cooler and never had a problem with high idle when hot ever since, does it do it now in our colder weather or is it only in our hot weather does it do it.
Carbs when pulled down could look good but needle and jets do wear out depends on how many miles you clock up, my Norton was a everyday rider most of its life till 2013 when I brought my new Triumph Thruxton but when riding all those years every day I would replace needle and jets ever 3 years without fail as from vibrations the jet wear oval and Amal rebuild kits are cheap for keeping great running.
does your Norton idle just right when cold but as soon as it warms up its sits too high could just need the idle screw to be adjusted out a bit more as the slide not dropping down enough when hot, your bike should not idle good when cold unless you using chokes, I would take a small screw driver with me and adjust the idle/slide when the motor is hot.
I have just gone back to running with my old Amals after a 12 year absent and when tuning the carbs up in the shed I had to readjust them while out and about to get things set right when the bike had done a few miles and stops, I be dropping your idle screws down a bit when it does it, put your hand over the end of your mufflers when stopped and feel which side is doing what, you be able to feel if one cylinder is running higher than the other if both side are doing it just lower your idle down, no use doing this till your motor is at running temp.
I run K&N air filter on mine so its easy for me to remove them and stick my fingers in the back to feel my slides and feel if both slide are dropping right down while on the bike or feel for tight spots.
If I had your Norton in my hands I am sure I would workout what the problem is but as we don't its hard to know but I am sure its only something simple causing it if the bike is running good other than the slides not fully retuning.
If the Norton is running good no need to replace the carbs, I have ran my Norton for years with worn out slides and it still ran good but didn't idle so well had to keep the throttle open a little but a new set of Amals way back in 1980 which I am still running and to my surprise the slides are still good even with a lot of miles on them.

Ashley
 
Also check cables and junction box where the single cable goes into 2 cables and having a straight run to your carbies with out any tight spots in your cables, because my 850 is in the Wideline Featherbed frame my cables have a free run to the carbs.
 
Need some advice.
Put some new amals on my 71 Commando about 12 months ago and they have both been running fine until recently when the right slide started sticking at half throttle and up.
I’ve been running about 2mil hard gaskets between carb body and manifolds and hard gaskets between manifolds and head. Is this ok?
I’ve also been using locktight in the screws and nuts. What torque is recommended for the nuts carb to manifold and manifold to head.

I’ve just taken the carb off again (I’m getting pretty good at it) and the slide is a little tight in the carb barrel from about halfway up. Is it ok to lightly sand the barrel with wet n dry till I get free movement?
Thought I would ask before I do something I can’t undo.
Thanks
Simon
I should also say that I’ve only been doing the nuts up on the carb to manifold tight when it just bites and then about half a turn.
 
Thank you all for the advice.
The idle screws are well out and not contacting the slide at all, yet it still has the fast idle.
The timing is correct, the balance tube intact but I will check the o rings on the air screws.
Yes, to me it seems a little rich, it requires an initial tickle when cold but within a few seconds settles down to an excellent idle. Hot starting is good (no tickle).
Is it possible that wear is causing air is sucking around the sides of the slides?
Alan
ps, the engine never seems overly hot when stopped and I don’t believe the cards are particularly hot.
im sure I could dip my finger into the oil tank quickly without being scalded.
 
Have you got electronic ignition, or points and a advancer , "if" it had the latter, the advancer could need a clean and lube , just thought I'd mention it .
 
Which Boyer, black box is simple advance, red and blue box have idle stabilisation and so advance at low revs to keep the idle up. This messes up the idle tuning by ear so colortune is best.
 
Could you have worn intake valve guides ? and they are passing unmetered air , like worn throttle shafts on a car carb .
 
Thanks for all the good advice.
I’ve used a lot of it and done the split washers and nylock nuts and done away with gaskets between carb and manifold retained the hard gaskets between manifold and head. I used a tool I have similar to a c clamp and the slide now moves freely. Haven’t started or ridden yet to late too wet here in Aus fingers crossed it all works tomorrow.
Once again thanks again for the great heads up.
Simon
 
I had to lap mine several years back to rid them of being slightly sticky. When i take them down for cleaning, etc. I also use the marker to check for drag spots.
 
After all of these painful fixings , I decided to $pend the money . New Wassel carbs , new cables , new junction block , new filters , new rubbers , a new kit for brass big grab adjusters for richness and throttle adjustments . Money well $pent .
 
Thank you all for the advice.
The idle screws are well out and not contacting the slide at all, yet it still has the fast idle.
The timing is correct, the balance tube intact but I will check the o rings on the air screws.
Yes, to me it seems a little rich, it requires an initial tickle when cold but within a few seconds settles down to an excellent idle. Hot starting is good (no tickle).
Is it possible that wear is causing air is sucking around the sides of the slides?
Alan
ps, the engine never seems overly hot when stopped and I don’t believe the cards are particularly hot.
im sure I could dip my finger into the oil tank quickly without being scalded.
With the idle screws backed off, can you hear the slides hit the bottom when you release the throttle?
Even with badly worn carbs they shouldn't tick over with the screws fully out.
Is there sufficient slack in the cables?
If the air slides have been removed, have the cable holes been plugged on the carb tops?

I've surprised myself in the past at how totally knackered carbs can be made to perform again by replacing the slides, needles & jets.
 
Tha
With the idle screws backed off, can you hear the slides hit the bottom when you release the throttle?
Even with badly worn carbs they shouldn't tick over with the screws fully out.
Is there sufficient slack in the cables?
If the air slides have been removed, have the cable holes been plugged on the carb tops?

I've surprised myself in the past at how totally knackered carbs can be made to perform again by replacing the slides, needles & jets.
Thank you ,
I still have the choke slides installed.
I believe the slides are definitely touching the bottom of their travel. I can hear the very slight double click when the throttle is released. I have adjusted all cables so they a slack by a mm or so with no throttle.
As I have said, it absolutely has me confused. It appears to defy logic
I’m not opposed to spending money on my bike but I would just like to understand what’s happening. The carbs don’t appear particularly worn.
For the vast majority of my riding, which is less than I like, it’s not really a problem but a nicely idling British twin is a thing of joy.
Alan
 
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