Am i missing something here?

DogT said:

Is this another solution looking for a problem?

Dave
69S

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I don't know Dave. People just get bore or wake up sweating in the middle of the night with these half brained realization.

Unless drained, the sump will always collect 5 to 7 oz from drainage of the upper end. Anyone can shut down their bike, close the valve( it you have one) go out the next morning and drain off a good amount of oil out the sump.
I am sure many will scratch their heads thinking that their valves are leaking.

comnoz said:

Any Norton I know of- even a MK3 - will have collected enough oil in the sump in 4 weeks time to dip the crank and provide lots of lubrication for start up.
The cam on my Norton is rifle drilled with holes drilled in each lobe. I have an oil line connected to the left end of the cam with a .010 orfice to limit the oil. Seems to work as I have not seen any cam wear since I did this over 20 years ago. I did it after I had two cam failures in one year but I have no doubt they were caused by a poor choice of oil. Jim

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Would that be something to be done with the timed breather (if I took out the valve) and installed your sump drain valve?

Dave
69S

DogT said:

comnoz said:

Any Norton I know of- even a MK3 - will have collected enough oil in the sump in 4 weeks time to dip the crank and provide lots of lubrication for start up.
The cam on my Norton is rifle drilled with holes drilled in each lobe. I have an oil line connected to the left end of the cam with a .010 orfice to limit the oil. Seems to work as I have not seen any cam wear since I did this over 20 years ago. I did it after I had two cam failures in one year but I have no doubt they were caused by a poor choice of oil. Jim

Click to expand...

Would that be something to be done with the timed breather (if I took out the valve) and installed your sump drain valve?

Dave
69S

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I think Jim's drillings and oil directing from a pressure feed cam is the answer.

Used to be common on machinery to have oiling ports...better install some in the top of the valve covers so while you are tickling the carbs you can pump some oil into the push rod tunnels!

Install those little oil cups with covers that they have on the old hit n miss engines.

L.A.B. said:

john robert bould said:

I am right in thinking the cam spins towards the crank? thus throwing off the "crank spray"

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I honestly don't know.

It would be interesting to observe exactly what was going on inside the crankcase?
Anyone feel like motoring up a Commando crank with the barrels off?

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Looking at the timing chain it looks to me that the cam rotates in the same direction as the crankshaft so oil from the crank will hit the cam lobe before it pulls under the cam follower which is for the best.

rx7171 said:

Looking at the timing chain it looks to me that the cam rotates in the same direction as the crankshaft so oil from the crank will hit the cam lobe before it pulls under the cam follower which is for the best.

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Looking at it from timing side, crank running clockwise, crank pinion turning idler gear counter clockwise, rotating cam chain and therefore cam turning counter clockwise.

john robert bould said:

DogT said:

comnoz said:

Any Norton I know of- even a MK3 - will have collected enough oil in the sump in 4 weeks time to dip the crank and provide lots of lubrication for start up.
The cam on my Norton is rifle drilled with holes drilled in each lobe. I have an oil line connected to the left end of the cam with a .010 orfice to limit the oil. Seems to work as I have not seen any cam wear since I did this over 20 years ago. I did it after I had two cam failures in one year but I have no doubt they were caused by a poor choice of oil. Jim

Click to expand...

Would that be something to be done with the timed breather (if I took out the valve) and installed your sump drain valve?

Dave
69S

Click to expand...

I think Jim's drillings and oil directing from a pressure feed cam is the answer.

Click to expand...

Answer to what? Doesn't almost every cam in the world have the same issues? If you want to go nuts with this, although not Commando related, what about overhead cams?

Dominators had an oil bath tub, could that be restored in a C'do with a .400" lift cam? Half a tub was still there in '72's. CW Crank/rods sling oil forward and down onto cam lobe while CCW cam slower spin slings oil up and backwards. Cam bushes get what ever oil can slick to case walls to dribbles into tiny hole at each end.
Has anyone opened them up and grooved walls to assist oil entering and keeping the holes full?

Steve, Yes in the past i have counter sunk the collecter dimples ,just to improve the collection "Oil wells" Bigger is better.

I'd want to do this on Peel's Maney race cases but they are now black body coated and wouldn't want to distort by welding up a lip. I'll eye soon to see how hogging out might work out. Otherwise best I can figure is contour Al piece and bolt it in through the cases. I have way to pressurize my oil feed into engine 100 PSI for a spell so wondering about that just wet sumping or actually dribble some start up oil on the lobes via lifters front groove and drilled drain holes like Jim's BSA kit.

When-if I wear out the factory liters I'll likely spring for Jim's deal as he can supply the radical Norris D+ profile Peel needs to exist on pump gas & sane throttle use.

Off to photo broken axle ends and go though Trixies rear hub and brake to get back to rock and roll practice.