Bearing siezed or am I missing something

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cgarai

cgarai

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The innermost piece (inner race?) in the picture below does not turn. Mounted on the forks the wheel seems to spin OK, but it seems to me that this inner piece should turn. When bolted to the forks the outer shields should compress against this point on the disk side and it's corresponding inner race on the other side and is fixed relative to the axle and forks.

Or am I wrong?
Bearing siezed or am I missing something
 
Without a pic its tricky to know what you are comparing.
The link to the pic is wrong, somehow, although it all seems valid. (?).

But the inner races of the wheel bearings should be stationary on the axle, as should the bearing shield/spacer.
All locked solid to the axle (and thus stationary) in the alloy fork sliders.

Its only the larger outer wheel bearing races (in the hub) and the ball bearings that rotate (with the hub/spokes/rim/tire)
If the inner race is spinning on the axle, or the outer bearing race is spinning in the wheel hub, then that is not good, and not right...
hth.
 
Sorry about the bad image. I think I have it fixed now.

The inner race should be fixed with the axle, I got that. Sadly when off the bike I can't spin the inner race relative to the wheel on the disk side. I'm trying to figure out if the bearing spacer is seized to the hub and the inner race.

I'm trying to get this bike on the road after a long time in storage. I rode it a few miles and didn't notice any problem with the wheel nor did the axle get scored, but it doesn't seem right.

So I think I have to disassemble the hub. The disk side cover (also in this picture)appears to be staked in place. How do I remove it? I think I understand the Clymer manual instructions up to this point.

Thanks
 
If you poke the axle through the centre there, you should be able to spin the wheel and hold the axle in your hands,
and it should spin smoothly and freely.

If in any doubt, or it feels wrong, you are VERY correct in replacing the wheel bearings - having worn or dodgy wheel bearings is a real safety concern.
 
The pressed steel shield is staked in place. You can use a punch to straighten the 4 aluminum stakes and lever the shield out. You then have to lever over the spacer in between bearings (about 2.5" long) and get a long punch on either bearing inner race from either end thru the spacer. Something with a good sharp, square edge to get grip on the bearing levered over to one side will be needed and heat will help. The spacer will only move sideways a few mm in the hub so you can't get a nice straight hit on the bearing.
 
cgarai said:
The innermost piece (inner race?) in the picture below does not turn. Mounted on the forks the wheel seems to spin OK, but it seems to me that this inner piece should turn. When bolted to the forks the outer shields should compress against this point on the disk side and it's corresponding inner race on the other side and is fixed relative to the axle and forks.

The "inner race" is not supposed to turn. This is clamped up tight when the spindle nut is tightened. So it is supposed to remain fixed whilst the wheel, and the outer race, rotate around it.
Click to expand...
 
Get sealed bearings and eliminate the felt seal.
You can find them at your local bearing supply house for about $12 ea
 
The wheel spun on the axle, but I think the inner race must be spinning with the wheel, not stationary with the axle.

I read somewhere that to install a sealed double race bearing that machining needs to be done so that it doesn't stick out. Is that something that can be done on a fully assembled wheel? Are there alternatives?
 
cgarai said:
I read somewhere that to install a sealed double race bearing that machining needs to be done so that it doesn't stick out. Is that something that can be done on a fully assembled wheel? Are there alternatives?
Click to expand...

Correct (16mm) width sealed bearings (4203 2RS) are available-no need for any machining.
 
Fast Eddie said:
The "inner race" is not supposed to turn. This is clamped up tight when the spindle nut is tightened. So it is supposed to remain fixed whilst the wheel, and the outer race, rotate around it.
Click to expand...

That is what I thought. The wheel does turn freely when bolted up, but the inner race won't turn when I try with my finger
 
cgarai said:
Fast Eddie said:
The "inner race" is not supposed to turn. This is clamped up tight when the spindle nut is tightened. So it is supposed to remain fixed whilst the wheel, and the outer race, rotate around it.
Click to expand...

That is what I thought. The wheel does turn freely when bolted up, but the inner race won't turn when I try with my finger
Click to expand...

As already suggested by another poster, if in doubt, its best to fit new bearings.
 
I still don't understand why I couldn't spin this with my fingers. I bolted the axel with a spacer so I could see if I could turn it. No problem. I marked the inner race to see if it moved. It did. So I took it all apart. Much easier than I expected!
To my surprise it appears I must have installed sealed bearings sometime in the 33 years I've owned it:

Bearing siezed or am I missing something


They are MRC 6203 SZZ and SKF 4203 ATN9. The single seems very smooth. The double has a very slightly bit of bumpiness. Should I replace them?

Here is my simple pin spanner solution, two drill bits in a piece of oak flooring scrap:

Bearing siezed or am I missing something
 
You are further ahead on your hub rebuild dis-assembly than I am, and I'm confused by your description of the circumstances for when the inner race won't rotate, but I'm very impressed by your special tool. That I understand - excellent!
Bill
 
Heck if it's been so many years that you can't recall how many years back you changed out those bearings to sealed type then yes it's time to renew. I now use a log book and whenever I do maintenance of any sort it is logged. Gives you a timeframe . :)
 
Torontonian said:
Heck if it's been so many years that you can't recall how many years back you changed out those bearings to sealed type then yes it's time to renew. I now use a log book and whenever I do maintenance of any sort it is logged. Gives you a timeframe . :)
Click to expand...

I used to log maintenance and repairs, but I have gotten lax in my old age. I do, however, strongly advise everyone to do so.

Slick
 
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