74 MkIIA Resto/Mod

Much appreciated. Now that I know it can be done, I will carry on.

Head goes to head builder today. Gotta drive it 150 miles south. Then aluminum bits go to polisher. Then, I hope I can borrow the pinion gear remover, and I will be able to split the cases.

Onward, into the fog! :D
 
rockitdoc said:
Any suggestions on how to do this appreciated. I did the above and can not see how this lump is coming through the hole in the mount.
Click to expand...

You probably need to remove the oil hoses from the oil filter mount. That will allow you to rotate the gear box further to the desired position for removal.
 
Gearbox took some prying/persuasion to get it rotated into the proper position. But, once there, came right out.

Many thanks for the tips. The shop manual is sometimes a bit hard to translate.

74 MkIIA Resto/Mod



So, bike got from fully functional, running Commando to what you see below in about 18 hours. Not bad for a complete amateur that never disassembled one before. Hoo Rah :D I am sure it could be done in half that time, easily, for one experienced in the art.

74 MkIIA Resto/Mod


Next, I'll get the jig required to keep the thing from folding in half without the engine in there. Then, I can roll him around the shop, if need be.
 
Since you've already pulled the advancer plate, this won't mean much, but for those who need to do so in the future, threading the hold down bolt into the unit and tapping it lightly in different directions will pop the taper out of it's seat, no puller necessary.
 
Danno said:
Since you've already pulled the advancer plate, this won't mean much, but for those who need to do so in the future, threading the hold down bolt into the unit and tapping it lightly in different directions will pop the taper out of it's seat, no puller necessary.
Click to expand...
That probably depends on how tight it is. Some of those tapered fits are ON there!
 
rockitdoc said:
And, finally......

Now the funnest part begins. Getting new stuff to put back on! :D

74 MkIIA Resto/Mod
Click to expand...

I think you spelled it wrong there, it´s not "funnest", it´s spelled "expensive" :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
Tommy
 
The nice thing about where you are at now is you can decide how the finished result is going to look like, It's funner to $pend !
 
fiatfan said:
rockitdoc said:
And, finally......

Now the funnest part begins. Getting new stuff to put back on! :D

74 MkIIA Resto/Mod
Click to expand...

I think you spelled it wrong there, it´s not "funnest", it´s spelled "expensive" :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
Tommy
Click to expand...

'Expensive' is relative. See that red Laverda in the background. That's expensive! :shock:
 
rockitdoc said:
fiatfan said:
rockitdoc said:
And, finally......

Now the funnest part begins. Getting new stuff to put back on! :D

74 MkIIA Resto/Mod
Click to expand...

I think you spelled it wrong there, it´s not "funnest", it´s spelled "expensive" :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
Tommy
Click to expand...

'Expensive' is relative. See that red Laverda in the background. That's expensive! :shock:
Click to expand...

I saw it, I´m actually a big fan of those, especially the SF 750 twin (that´s a secret, don´t tell anyone). I know they don´t come cheap these days.
Tommy
 
Now your this far down you might want to look at this.

the-world-straightest-commando-t20576.html

There is considerable difference of opinions one way or the other as to if this is worth while but I think you should investigate the basics anyway.

My reason being that you almost certainly have an Italian frame. I also own a 1974 MkII and it does track badly at low speed with your hands off the bars. It pulls badly to the left. It is also a lot less stable at high speed than my featherbed framed Dommie.

There are "rumours" "stories" "legends" on how these Italian frames had to be sent back to Reynolds to be straightened. Who knows the truth but for certain the next time I have my frame stripped down I intend to do a good check of the basics at least as described in this article.

John
 
Maybe the Italian frame is the reason the Cdo is so at peace next to my SFC, and vice versa. :D

Interesting article. I wonder if adjustable isolastics helps solve the problem (if it is indeed present), though. Especially for an old man like me that doesn't intent to take it around the IOM at speed (although that is on my B list for some bike, some day). :mrgreen:
 
Did a bit more rooting around re the frame straightness 'issue'. Probably not a factor. At least for me. Diminishing returns. Interesting science, but for me, not worth the trouble.

I'll definitely check to make sure the thing wasn't hammered by a Buick, though.
 
Strippping parts off and bead blasting prior to powder coating. Everything was going well until I reached the centerstand and battery tray. Would not blast off. Previous powder coat or really heavy paint. I dunno. But, a coating of Aircraft Remover and poof!

74 MkIIA Resto/Mod


74 MkIIA Resto/Mod


Gonna bead blast after the Remover did it's thing and then powder coat.
 
While you have the oil tank out you might want to do a mod to prevent breaking of rear mounting tab if it hasn't been done...I had CNW do mine and when retruned had reinforced bottom , powdercoated and heavier rubber mounts...Some people prefer to do it themselves..Should be several posts here...

Below is a link to CNW mod...

http://coloradonortonworks.com/part-cat ... /#post-295
 
Frame, gearbox cradle and swing arm are back from powdercoater. Also have triple trees, battery tray, and coil carriage, center stand and sidestand coated, Does anyone have a good sequence that is recommended for building this thing back up?
 
Put the horn in before you get too far along, otherwise you will never be able to get the bolts in. Have it sitting by handy and when the space starts to disappear bolt it in.
 
rockitdoc said:
Frame, gearbox cradle and swing arm are back from powdercoater. Also have triple trees, battery tray, and coil carriage, center stand and sidestand coated, Does anyone have a good sequence that is recommended for building this thing back up?
Click to expand...

Assemble front suspension to frame, w/handlebar(s).
Assemble swingarm to tranny cradle.
Assemble tranny cradle/swingarm to frame w/ rear iso unit & shocks.
Install rear wheel assy.
Install front wheel assy.
Attach an approx 12" length of steel strap or heavy (coathangar) wire between tranny cradle bottom mount and front iso mount tab.
Install sidestand.

You will then have a rolling chassis that can stand on it's own to be photographed. You can also sit on it and make "vroom vroom" sounds..

Next thing to install is the tranny.
Install oil filter housing and hoses to tranny cradle.
Then the horn to the battery tray, then that assy to the chassis.
Part of horn mounting involves the rear fender and the square bent bracket/plate.
 
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