a 40MM belt drive IS NOT a bolt on fit with the alternator as it is a race drive. you could possibly modify the drive and alternator to fit or order a front pulley and 30 MM belt. I had a long thread on britbike arguing with the seller of your drive about the benefits of belt drives over the stock setup but some people have to pi$$ on the electric fence before they learn. I would be Leary of an alloy center on a street bike as you will probably have a high rate of wear especially if you use the bronze plates. I prefer the surflex 750 plates and if you get a couple of .060 steels from old brits and the 850 pressure plate you can stack 5 frictions and have a lot lighter weight clutch.
1973 850 Mono shock / showa forks.
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xbacksideslider
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Maybe I reviewed this thread too quickly and I missed something.
The stock damper/springs upper pick up point is the rear sub frame. That means that the load triangle is completed through the rear isolastics, so yes, that's compromised.
If, however, that pick up point for the upper end of the shocks, whether it is mono or dual, is moved to some extension of the transmission cradle, then the isolastics are taken out of the rear suspension load triangle.
The stock damper/springs upper pick up point is the rear sub frame. That means that the load triangle is completed through the rear isolastics, so yes, that's compromised.
If, however, that pick up point for the upper end of the shocks, whether it is mono or dual, is moved to some extension of the transmission cradle, then the isolastics are taken out of the rear suspension load triangle.
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ludwig said:
I'm not sure how relevant this argument (if that's what it is) is because the stock dampers are attached to the swingarm at their bottoms (part of the isolastic system) and to the frame at their tops (not part of the isolastics) Wouldn't this lead to the same sort of imprecision? Didn't Dr. Bauer and Mr. Trigg think of this way back when?
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Windy, ballpark is close enough to know there is a ugly gap for cover to deal with on 40 mm drive that retains factory charger. Cool to think of the engines that need a 40 mm to hold their torque.
I always built my tree forts with the long pieces under load fastened to trees at the ends of the pieces not the middle, but maybe don't apply to chassis. Attaching rear suspension to cradle only, just puts more twist and side loads on the fairly narrow and central iso rubbers. If only was some way to combine the stiffness of both cradle sides and frame sides together yet allow the iso's to only need to control engine and road jostles, might work a treat no matter the shock placements. If a bike can lean far enough and still hook up it vastly reduces side loads, handling road lumps in same plane as full upright accelerating. Increasing stiffness from rear patch to front iso, would seem to me to help the tail wag the stem/front tire. Mono's sure look sexy and crafty to install that's for sure.
Should work all the better with a one sided swing arm like best modern cripples, for most impressive sex appeal and difficulty. If longer travel would help the off road conditions they were developed for, right up cafe racer alley needs.
I always built my tree forts with the long pieces under load fastened to trees at the ends of the pieces not the middle, but maybe don't apply to chassis. Attaching rear suspension to cradle only, just puts more twist and side loads on the fairly narrow and central iso rubbers. If only was some way to combine the stiffness of both cradle sides and frame sides together yet allow the iso's to only need to control engine and road jostles, might work a treat no matter the shock placements. If a bike can lean far enough and still hook up it vastly reduces side loads, handling road lumps in same plane as full upright accelerating. Increasing stiffness from rear patch to front iso, would seem to me to help the tail wag the stem/front tire. Mono's sure look sexy and crafty to install that's for sure.
Should work all the better with a one sided swing arm like best modern cripples, for most impressive sex appeal and difficulty. If longer travel would help the off road conditions they were developed for, right up cafe racer alley needs.
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Ugh, digging the hole is sure different project than filling it back in well : )
I see the outrageous gorgeous endeavors and admire them and try to follow all the engineering concepts - especially as blurred by the dang ole wonderful isolastics. But I do seem to miss out on the reason that motivates to mono shock or especially a one sided swing arm. Seems a perfect solution for box car size BMW and shaft drive defending off gritty conditions. I've looked into both of these for a reverse trike idea but can't figure out advantage in Commando retaining isolastic chassis which ain't even up tolerating engine vibes if not rubber dampened.
As an art form its tops the charts for half steam punk quaint with hi tech woven in. As a handling aid its lost on me and seems more realistic to put Commando engine in a modern like that green wonder that was offered at $60K then $40K to who knows the final discount. But then would you expect it to hold its own against the engine it replaced? I explored the moderns mono handling limits in V twin and in line 4 on soft fat tires and ain't very impressed, in fact I'm scared to death of em now to get much corner trill out of. Also sucks on my attention and comfort span to feel the valve train buzz even if the major motion counter balanced/filtered out. To me a Commando w/o rubber disappearing act is down graded to live with but for a race length event and even then its an issue to avoid.
Only strong place at rear of Cdo frame, is between the upper shock mounts, next would be the rear frame bends if they were tied/gusseted together. I don't quite see the caution in mounting swing arm to frame as the amount of motion iso allows is barely 1/4" fro/aft from road loads, well within chain tension range that still allows normal Cdo suspension motion. Only front lifting, clutch burning, or raw rock/log course could actually get iso's to move fro/ aft 1/4". Then a fully adjustable mono might be cat's meow, until the isolastic you know what onsets.
Swing arm on frame would take away a lot of the rear patch pivoting through rear iso from slapping the front iso/forks sideways in sweepers. May bump up Cdo's tolerance to hang harsh sweepers, but don't know if it would dull or magnify the hinged handling onset every bike can get into [but one] easier than out of. Its magnified to higher freq less warning onset in the modern versions.
I'd love to find out so lose some more sleep on it and for gosh sakes don't put no rod links near the rear or I may lose my peaceful sleep.
I see the outrageous gorgeous endeavors and admire them and try to follow all the engineering concepts - especially as blurred by the dang ole wonderful isolastics. But I do seem to miss out on the reason that motivates to mono shock or especially a one sided swing arm. Seems a perfect solution for box car size BMW and shaft drive defending off gritty conditions. I've looked into both of these for a reverse trike idea but can't figure out advantage in Commando retaining isolastic chassis which ain't even up tolerating engine vibes if not rubber dampened.
As an art form its tops the charts for half steam punk quaint with hi tech woven in. As a handling aid its lost on me and seems more realistic to put Commando engine in a modern like that green wonder that was offered at $60K then $40K to who knows the final discount. But then would you expect it to hold its own against the engine it replaced? I explored the moderns mono handling limits in V twin and in line 4 on soft fat tires and ain't very impressed, in fact I'm scared to death of em now to get much corner trill out of. Also sucks on my attention and comfort span to feel the valve train buzz even if the major motion counter balanced/filtered out. To me a Commando w/o rubber disappearing act is down graded to live with but for a race length event and even then its an issue to avoid.
Only strong place at rear of Cdo frame, is between the upper shock mounts, next would be the rear frame bends if they were tied/gusseted together. I don't quite see the caution in mounting swing arm to frame as the amount of motion iso allows is barely 1/4" fro/aft from road loads, well within chain tension range that still allows normal Cdo suspension motion. Only front lifting, clutch burning, or raw rock/log course could actually get iso's to move fro/ aft 1/4". Then a fully adjustable mono might be cat's meow, until the isolastic you know what onsets.
Swing arm on frame would take away a lot of the rear patch pivoting through rear iso from slapping the front iso/forks sideways in sweepers. May bump up Cdo's tolerance to hang harsh sweepers, but don't know if it would dull or magnify the hinged handling onset every bike can get into [but one] easier than out of. Its magnified to higher freq less warning onset in the modern versions.
I'd love to find out so lose some more sleep on it and for gosh sakes don't put no rod links near the rear or I may lose my peaceful sleep.
There is a guy in town who made a commando custom and used a mini drag racing alternator in the old magneto spot. I talked to him today, he used stock drive parts, and modded the alternator. 600W of power. Here is what he used.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... MEWAX%3AIT
Talk amongst yourselves.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... MEWAX%3AIT
Talk amongst yourselves.
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There have been at least one other Norton twin art work custom bike featured in a cycle mag a couple years ago that drove a DENSO mini 600 watt off points by using
and P11 or Atlas TS case to get the drive installed. Ms Peel has similar but more stream lined less under hood looking version. I can't use points drive d/t Maney cases so will jack shaft off 40 mm belt drive. Its a 3 wire sensor type so make best of its watt even at slow idle, so tiny battery don't pitter away and stall in minutes.
Will be a treat to have heated everything on top of great lighting power.
It would be good to know what rpm a single wire Altn. begins to make 12+V for drive ratio's.
and P11 or Atlas TS case to get the drive installed. Ms Peel has similar but more stream lined less under hood looking version. I can't use points drive d/t Maney cases so will jack shaft off 40 mm belt drive. Its a 3 wire sensor type so make best of its watt even at slow idle, so tiny battery don't pitter away and stall in minutes.
Will be a treat to have heated everything on top of great lighting power.
It would be good to know what rpm a single wire Altn. begins to make 12+V for drive ratio's.
bwolfie said:
That is the same one I used on my café, it is also the same one used on some big Suzukis (Bandit 1200S...) I got mine from a Kubota dealer, new pull from a stationary engine. That e-bay one is a very good price. The only thing wrong with the one I have is a bit a leakage current when not in use, if I leave it connected for a long time without using it, the battery will die.
Jean
I should have the trans cradle welded up tonight. Then on to modifing the swingarm. My alternator came today, and my intermediate gear came yesterday. I found a place to buy triplex primary chain in bulk with links. My rear hub shows up tomorrow, hopefully I win my front hub tonight. then on to rims and spokes.
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