1971 Roadster - Long Slow Play

PB Blaster in between bushings and spindle, and into top via the locating bolt and leave overnight. Heat the swingarm around bushings and the spindle tube. Maybe best done off bike.

I tried that too. Plugged the sides and over the course of a week filled the entire cavity with PB blaster. Topped up every day and still nothing.

Also tried applying heat, but the heat source was only from a small hand held propane torch. My dad has a oxy acetylene setup that might be better.
 
I was always ready for anything with my neighbor friend's 30 ton free-standing press.

However, I've had to beat out more than one Commando swingarm spindle with my long handled 10-pound sledge hammer after properly supporting everything with various 2x2, 2x4 and 4x4 hardwood and softwood blocks. One time, it took a half-dozen very stern smacks.
 
I was always ready for anything with my neighbor friend's 30 ton free-standing press.

However, I've had to beat out more than one Commando swingarm spindle with my long handled 10-pound sledge hammer after properly supporting everything with various 2x2, 2x4 and 4x4 hardwood and softwood blocks. One time, it took a half-dozen very stern smacks.

Thanks grandpaul,

I will have to try and rig something to hold everything in place.

The hardest part was trying to hold the swing arm and cradle to get an effective swing of the sledge.
 
You may have to get a press anyhow to get the iso bolt out. If you have to cut it, it's not going to come out with banging. I had to use my 20 ton press to get that effer out. Do you have Harbor Freight up north, or something similar that sells Chinese crap tools? Some tools you want to spend money on and others it's not worth it. The HF press is good enough for most jobs and is probably paid for after three presses (vs paying someone)
 
You may have to get a press anyhow to get the iso bolt out. If you have to cut it, it's not going to come out with banging. I had to use my 20 ton press to get that effer out. Do you have Harbor Freight up north, or something similar that sells Chinese crap tools? Some tools you want to spend money on and others it's not worth it. The HF press is good enough for most jobs and is probably paid for after three presses (vs paying someone)

Rear ISO was just as struck and had to be hacksawed off. Came out pretty easy cutting on each side. Spindle appears to be hardened steel, so no luck there trying cut at the bushings.

Our version of Harbor Freight is Princess Auto. Will have to look into what is available next time I am there (Which is pretty much once a week).
 
ALWAYS grease (lightly) the iso thru bolts (front & rear), as you install them.
 
I’ve set aside the frame for a bit and shifted focus to the engine.

1971 Roadster - Long Slow Play


The engine was 95% disassembled when purchased. I fabbed up a quick engine stand, bolted the cases together and dropped on the barrels and head.
 
The crankshaft was complete but needed to be split to check the the sludge trap. The nuts were staked and looked to have not been disturbed.

1971 Roadster - Long Slow Play


Made sure to punch/ mark the timing side for re-assembly.

1971 Roadster - Long Slow Play
 
Took some persistence and persuasion with mallets, but finally got everything separated.

9A277B59-FCB8-43DD-B314-40DCB35B71BE.jpeg

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Surprisingly, there was very little material on the inside. Maybe the crank had been opened up previously.

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Next up on the schedule will be to pull the remaining bearing, clean, and check the tolerances.
 
As was expected, after nearly 50 years some parts were beyond stuck.

Had to cut off the rear iso bolt to remove the cradle. I cannot for the life of me get the swing arm spindle to budge. I’ve broken a punch, soaked with penetrating oil, applied heat. I even fashioned a puller per the manual. Nothing has worked. Next is to find someone with a press....

I am open to other advice from those that have been in the same situation. I am trying to not be ham fisted and damage the parts. I‘ve picked up a spare swing arm just in case.

View attachment 17236
A previous owner of mine decided the single 1/4 set screw wasn't sufficient so welded the tube to the pivot pin!!!!!....
The tube was so badly damaged as a result (the rest of the cradle in very good condition) I obtained from AN a replacement tube and had a local engineering company cut out the damaged one and weld in the new tube
 
The engine was also disassembled when I purchased the roadster.

After I had everything home, I noticed that one of the bottom fins on the head had been cracked. I kick myself for not noticing and trying to negotiate down the price a bit more.

Unfortunately, the crack was deep enough that a portion of the fin came off with a bit of prying.

View attachment 17245

Currently searching for someone local who is good with a TIG to weld back on. The good news is it is on the bottom and accessible.
I did the same to my barrels a while back. Used JBWeld . Still holding strong.
 
A previous owner of mine decided the single 1/4 set screw wasn't sufficient so welded the tube to the pivot pin!!!!!....
The tube was so badly damaged as a result (the rest of the cradle in very good condition) I obtained from AN a replacement tube and had a local engineering company cut out the damaged one and weld in the new tube

I am starting to wonder if mine Was somehow welded as well. Will have to take a closer look.

Had to stop and change my focus, as I was worried I was going to wreck something.
 
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Spent most of July getting the XS650 sorted and road worthy (new tires, oil change etc.) and think the Norton was feeling neglected.

Dropped by my buddy’s dads place last week with the cases, barrels, crank, rods, and head.

We mic’d everything up and all parts are within spec. and standard bore. For having 22,000+ miles on the clock, the internals look very good.

All the parts were also run through his 30L ultrasonic cleaner. Ther are a few spots to touch up, but am overall very happy with how they turned out.

This said, I think that I am still going to get the head vapour blasted. Cases will be painted.

I just need to decide on the barrel colour. Because it is a 71’ and titled as 72’, I could go with either silver or black. Still on the fence.

1971 Roadster - Long Slow Play


Headed to the fabricator tomorrow to get the broken fin welded back on. He‘s a Harley guy, but comes recommended by one of the largest speciality aluminum welding shops in town.

We did not realize how dirty the head actually was. Upon pulling it out of the ultrasonic cleaner it was discovered that someone had already undertaken a fin repair (see highlighted dark area). Whoever it was, did a really nice job. You can only tell from the bottom.

1971 Roadster - Long Slow Play


Upon closer review it looks like one of the previous owners tried to loosen the head with a hammer and chisel. I can’t imagine using that much force to damage the bottom fins so extensively and leave chisel marks.


1971 Roadster - Long Slow Play
 
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I just need to decide on the barrel colour. Because it is a 71’ and titled as 72’, I could go with either silver or black. Still on the fence................. Great build thread,,,,, I vote to paint the barrels black...... I'm guessing your XS already has silver cylinders :). Again great thread, thanks for posting.
 

Never thought of it that way.... Yes, the XS has silver barrels. Might be nice to have one each of each colour.

Truthfully, when I think of a British motorcycle, I think of a black barrels.
 
Black is easier. Finding a good silver paint ain’t as easy as it used to be, some go yellow ish with heat and time. Black tends to stay black.
 
While looking to mask off the barrels for paint, I noticed the the bores for the cam followers need some love.

The barrels appears to have have sat for some time off of the engine and corrosion has set in.

Wondering the best way to clean up the bores from those who have done it before.

Would a brake cylinder home be too aggressive? Other thoughts were brass brushes in a drill.

Any help would be much appreciated.
 
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