12" Floating disc

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Torontonian said:
I have this front brake on My new MK111. And a matching MC. Handlebar brake lever was outside of my physical reach , so I filed down the fulcrum point where it hits the piston so now can at least reach it. Don't know anything about it. :? Should I silicone grease these bobbins and elliptical plate to prevent the wear you speak of ? :?:
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If you are not careful, the lever will jam at the handle bar position. The 'heel' that contacts the piston operates through a swept arc, when you file some of it away it can go past the edge of the piston as the arc has changed, the piston will return under spring pressure and prevent the lever from returning.

I have very small hands, and the MK3 brake lever is no problem - it sounds like you have a pre-MK3 lever fitted that has less dog leg in it. I advise you fit the correct lever for safety's sake.
 
Thanks for the lever safety advice. I'm running a brake MC (not stock), and lever that matches the huge AP racing front Mk111 brake , both are a cast charcoal grey. There's a couple of photos in the Norton Motorcycle Rebuilds section under the Mk111 Project thread by Torontonian. I think this is the brake we are talking about , but correct me if wrong or...someone tell me what it is ? :wink: :?
 
Be careful with AP levers, including the MK3 lever there are 3 levers that all look the same and even with two of the AP M/C levers in your hands it is very hard to see the difference - AP put out a safety call about this some years ago identifying what each has as a marking and to what M/C they should be fitted to.
 
Thanks again. Since I've filed down the lever fulcrum fulcrum to piston point to enable my fingers to actually get a grip around the lever , I will observe the action before using it riding. I've been told to start looking for an adjustable Magura lever but don't like the looks or colours much from the little research I've done. This is one big handfull of brake.
 
Just went outside to peel off the cover at the lever area (all under our first 20 cm. snowfall of the year..). Applied the brake lever a few times to determine the filed down heel action. It went well with no sign of potential over-travel of heel to piston movements , stayed central on piston at all pressures. A dab of silicone grease here to make things smooth. It's a polished aluminum lever with no ID marks that I could see . Easy to fully grab with 4 fingers vs. 2 now. 4 1/2 months to spring. :|
 
I went ahead and ordered new buttons and a set of thrust washers from L emery at fairspare/norvil.
However, when assembled with the thrust washer as well as spacer, circlip, there is virtually no movement of disc relative to carrier.
Surely this defeats the purpose of a floating disc?
Excuse my ignorance but I would rather get it right and look like an idiot than get it wrong when it comes to front brakes.
 
Going by the 2 brembo discs I have hardly is correct, if that is wrong then as its a Norvil disc the wear will rapidly re-appear and give you the extra movement.
 
anybody tried one of these?

12" Floating disc


http://www.britcycle.com/products/06/06_1885ss.htm
 
johnny Langdon wrote;
However, when assembled with the thrust washer as well as spacer, circlip, there is virtually no movement of disc relative to carrier.
Click to expand...
Surely this is how they are meant to be when correctly set up? The forces applied by the brake and any twisting of the forks will be greater than any force you can apply by hand?
You haven't replaced the carrier, and as I have already said, IF the carrier IS worn, it'll soon be rattling like a good one.
 
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