‘70 Commando Roadster rebuild in GA

I hear ya, that’s why I took the time to test, but danno is not giving me any ‘warm and fuzzies’ irt ‘Lucas’. I’ll inspect the harness tomorrow and post.

It's the old metal(!) bullet tube connectors (singles, doubles etc.) that should all be replaced with the latest type as the originals are often brittle so they fracture and break up unnoticed inside the rubber tubes/blocks (below) causing all kinds of odd electrical problems.


‘70 Commando Roadster rebuild in GA


‘70 Commando Roadster rebuild in GA


Examples:
https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product_list/6

http://www.britishwiring.com/category-s/266.htm
 
Time for a cold one.

Got in a good number of tasks the last 24hrs. A few mistakes, but mostly steps forward rather than mostly backward.

Not sure about most of you guys and gals, but it’s so therapeutic to watch and feel how all of this engineering is cleaning up and fitting together.

Went through a few Rolling Stones albums during this session. Fitting. And first fit did fit.

‘70 Commando Roadster rebuild in GA
 
It's the old metal(!) bullet tube connectors (singles, doubles etc.) that should all be replaced with the latest type as the originals are often brittle so they fracture and break up unnoticed inside the rubber tubes/blocks (below) causing all kinds of odd electrical problems.


‘70 Commando Roadster rebuild in GA


‘70 Commando Roadster rebuild in GA


Examples:
https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product_list/6

http://www.britishwiring.com/category-s/266.htm

Pictures do tell!

Thanks for the links. I think I’ve got a lot of wiring to take care of. Or another $100 for new.

I’m wondering if the stator should be replaced with new as well. That’s some heavy gauge stuff being manipulated outside that primary port.

Some things weren’t made to last 50yrs.
 
Part of owning old motorcycles is accepting that will sometimes you will spend more time turning wrenches than riding.

I elected to keep my bike the way It emerged after 35 years in a storage closet. Sort of a time capsule so to speak (see lazy). Don't have Amals, just a single Mikuni so I can't help you there, forunately there are tons of members more qualified than I who can.

I had installed a number of EI units on other bikes prior to the Norton so the Pazon was not daunting. Just follow the instructions and double check your connections and you will be fine.

I have received nothing but kind words and great advice here thus far with my build, no doubt you will the same. Looking forward to your progress!
 
Part of owning old motorcycles is accepting that will sometimes you will spend more time turning wrenches than riding.

I elected to keep my bike the way It emerged after 35 years in a storage closet. Sort of a time capsule so to speak (see lazy). Don't have Amals, just a single Mikuni so I can't help you there, forunately there are tons of members more qualified than I who can.

I had installed a number of EI units on other bikes prior to the Norton so the Pazon was not daunting. Just follow the instructions and double check your connections and you will be fine.

I have received nothing but kind words and great advice here thus far with my build, no doubt you will the same. Looking forward to your progress!

Cheers!
 
1. Head steady. (May go with AndoverN race if it fits.

3. Swingarm clamps. Would like to study and ‘diy’, but may go with NYCNorton Kit.

6. Dual Amal and airbox upgrades? -my Amals are cleaned/rebuilt. (I know there is a float upgrade. I like airflow, proper, efficient airflow. Don’t know if there is any upgrade except for velos or socks.)

12. Electrical wiring mods? Turn signals, flashers?

1 CNW/Jim Comstock - best of the best and makes a noticeable difference

3 NY Norton kit is good, with clear instructions. I fit it and like it.

6 https://www.accessnorton.com/Norton...-for-flatslide-carbs.16119/page-2#post-233898

12 I fit the CNW indicators and switch gear. I like them. You could DIY it with BMW/Ducati cast offs or spares and a Honda LH switch. In either case, much more ergonomic and sexy than stock.
 
1 CNW/Jim Comstock - best of the best and makes a noticeable difference

3 NY Norton kit is good, with clear instructions. I fit it and like it.

6 https://www.accessnorton.com/Norton...-for-flatslide-carbs.16119/page-2#post-233898

12 I fit the CNW indicators and switch gear. I like them. You could DIY it with BMW/Ducati cast offs or spares and a Honda LH switch. In either case, much more ergonomic and sexy than stock.


Fantastic stuff, gortnipper!

(edit-NYCNorton T-shirt and clamps ordered. Thanks)

Appreciate your opinions.

I’m going to spend a lot more time using the search function. It’s all here, just have to find it.
 
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Transmission should go in before the power unit, or you'll tear out some hair if you aren't already bald...
 
Transmission should go in before the power unit, or you'll tear out some hair if you aren't already bald...


Thanks grandpaul. Took two of us to get ithe gb out during tear down. The tear down took place months ago and it’s a chore for me to identify the puzzle pieces and mount bolts.

Just a dry fit last night to get the motor off the garage floor. I’m able to wheel frame and motor between the other bikes and start the next task... looks like hours on the wiring harness, stator

I live in one of those communities where I have to make room at the end of the day to park the vehicles out of sight. Then I empty the garage and start over the next day.

Good news is I found and identified all the fasteners, even for the gearbox.
 
I live in one of those communities where I have to make room at the end of the day to park the vehicles out of sight. Then I empty the garage and start over the next day.
HA!!!

That's EXACTLY what we are moving into (just hauled up the first load last weekend). $20 fine if your garbage can stays out by sunset on trash day.
 
HA!!!

That's EXACTLY what we are moving into (just hauled up the first load last weekend). $20 fine if your garbage can stays out by sunset on trash day.


Oh my. I’m so done with the ‘grass police’ here. You may get some enjoyment out of the manicured look, though

With retirement coming up, I have the chance to leave the rat race behind and get some property, barn, shop, etc.

I hope to have room for all the projects after the move. ‘I want a LIFT.’ ‘I want compressed air on hand’ and ‘electric sockets where I need em!’ And a shop ‘frig’ full of beverages.

Cheers
 
the side stand looks good to me. Use it. The part that wears out of spec is the hole in the lug, not the pin, so unless you're going to drill the whole thing out to a slightly larger size and get an oversized pin/bolt. I wouldn't worry much about it. If the lug wears out, you buy a new one to bolt up to the plate... that's what I did, after 40 years of use.

‘70 Commando Roadster rebuild in GA


If you look at your cradle/swingarm assembly, you see the swingarm tube has a single bolt. That was the deficiency that the kegler clamps correct by eliminating slop between the tube and the swingarm axl. I know that I changed perfectly good swingarm bushings because I thought that they were the problem, when it was the single bolt swingarm tube design which was the cause. I would bet you that your swingarm bushings are fine. I would inspect them and only replace them if they are sloppy.

‘70 Commando Roadster rebuild in GA

Did some experimenting with a few of my old and new modern side stands.

Seems that the wear/metal fatigue is most likely related to the circlip design, as stated in a few earlier posts.(Bobz, Pete)

The circlips do well for certain pressures and once compromised by an uneven load that is sure to happen on this side stand... the circlip is toast and slack causes the metal to compress, enlarging the bolt hole.

All the stands I have, use a partially threaded bolt and lock nut vs circlip. A much better fastener for the side stand.

I’d hate to tell a nice looking lady ‘not’ to sit on the seat while the side stand is in use, “the circlips can’t handle your weight.”

More later if I find the right dimensions for replacement
 
Just spent the morning perusing the technical information sticky section.

Looks like L.A.B. was responsible... thanks for all that knowledge in one area.

I will be looking at those references more than asking questions here in the future.

Highly recommend novice owners read through.
 
Transmission should go in before the power unit, or you'll tear out some hair if you aren't already bald...


As an experienced Norton wrenched, you probably have loads of ‘what not’ and ‘what to’ do.
You will move along quickly, and seem to be already...

Got any pics of your harness? I usually replace as many electrical components as I can on my bikes, it can be maddening searching for that one tiny failure somewhere.....


I checked the harness again, I may have a not-so-original newer one. The hardware is ‘solid’ and all the connections are tested and tight.

That said, I am thinking about upgrading for better light use and 12v. I may be changing out the whole system.

I have a little time to mull it over.

‘70 Commando Roadster rebuild in GA


‘70 Commando Roadster rebuild in GA


‘70 Commando Roadster rebuild in GA
 
Transmission should go in before the power unit, or you'll tear out some hair if you aren't already bald...


I trust your Norton experience serves you well in your wrenching. Good call

However, I’ve done it both ways now and the puzzle piece method from the manual, ‘anti-clockwise’, ‘tipping’, ‘cutaway’, ‘shifting’ worked out fine with the engine pivoting on one mount and the rear iso still mounted. Single old man operation.

I hope I have the correct swingarm cradle for the ‘70!

The frame, engine, gbox #s all match.

‘70 Commando Roadster rebuild in GA


‘70 Commando Roadster rebuild in GA
 
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