1974 mk2 clutch issues

[1216bandit]

With the engine off and the clutch lever pulled in the kick starter will not turn the engine over. With the engine running and put it in gear it stalls. From what have read it appears the clutch plates are sticking. I adjusted the clutch through the primary case as directed in the manual. Is there anything other than sticking plates that would cause this? Other than taking the clutch apart is there anything else I can try to free up the plates?

 

[jimbo]

With the engine off and the clutch lever pulled in the kick starter will not turn the engine over. When the clutch is disengaged, the kicker will not be engaged with the engine and should be able to be pushed through with very little effort. To unstick the plates, get it running , hop on, paddle it down a incline, throw it into gear and ride off. Then just pull in the clutch, it will eventually disengage ,if sticky clutch plates is the issue.

 

[kommando]

With the engine off and the clutch lever pulled in the kick starter will not turn the engine over. With the engine running and put it in gear it stalls.

If the kickstart lever is easy to move with the clutch lever pulled in then the clutch plates are unbound, not sticking and working as they should. The Commando clutch has a very short window between disengaged and engaged more like an on/off switch, making it very easy to stall the engine until you are used to it, release the clutch lever very slowly and keep the revs up.

 

[1216bandit]

The clutch cable at the perch is adjusted with minimal free play..so so lack of adjustment is not the cause. When in gear and clutch pulled in it wants to pull and will stall if I release the throttle. Other than sticking plates might there be anything else that would cause the issue? With the lever pulled in the kickstart does move freely with very minimal resistance.

 

[kommando]

With the handlebar clutch lever fully out on the handlebars there needs to be free play at the lever and also the clutch rod inside the gearbox mainshaft needs to spin freely. You adjust the clutch rod free play at the primary side through the inspection cover with the free play up at the clutch lever at maximum. As your clutch is dragging its missing some free play somewhere, start at the primary again.

 

[B+Bogus]

The operating lever in the gearbox can drop out of position against the ball bearing. May be worth checking?

 

[concours]

The clutch cable at the perch is adjusted with minimal free play..so so lack of adjustment is not the cause. When in gear and clutch pulled in it wants to pull and will stall if I release the throttle. Other than sticking plates might there be anything else that would cause the issue? With the lever pulled in the kickstart does move freely with very minimal resistance.

That is called a "dragging clutch"

Different from stuck.

Open it up, clean & inspect. Report back.

 

[1216bandit]

Thanx for all the tips! I think I know where I went wrong. When I made the adjustment through the primary I believe I did not have enough slack on the cable at the lever. Will go over everything tomorrow and let you know how I make out.

 

[L.A.B.]

Yes the cable must be completely slack or even better if disconnected at one end. The manual says to turn the pushrod adjuster back by one full turn but a third to a half can be better but that's up to you.

 

[ashman]

Its not a hard job to open the primary case and pull the clutch apart for a good clean, its part of general maintenance, but you need a clutch spring tool but is easy to make one, should be part of your workshop tools if you own a Norton, I be pulling it all down and give the clutch a good service, also a good time to check everything else inside the primary case.
Replace the primary oil with ATF oil and you will never have sticking clutch plates again.

Ashley

 

[1216bandit]

Clutch cable is disconnected at the lever now. When adjusting the clutch rod how far in do I turn it...just till it soft bottoms, as in feeling a bit of resistance or beyond that?

 

[L.A.B.]

When adjusting the clutch rod how far in do I turn it...just till it soft bottoms, as in feeling a bit of resistance

Yes.

https://www.classicbike.biz/Norton/Repair/70up_Commando/70upCommando.pdf

Section C35,6 and 7.

 

[1216bandit]

Thanx!

 

[Tornado]

I believe its turned in until you detect the leaf spring starting to move, then back off the nut 1/2 or 1 full turn.


Other possible issues with dragging clutch...plates gummed up from gearbox oil comtamination....it migrates along the operating pushrod and onto friction surfaces. Books says to glob grease on the rod to help reduce this. Parking on CS, not SS, helps keep gb oil from migrating. Next best option is to use the rod seal aftermarket mod...i believe AN now lists them.

Other things to check with clutch apart...notching of the inner or outer plate basket/cage grooves. If excessive replacment of these is needed. CNW does case hardened cutch baskets.

Finally, the operating lever assembly inside gb can have worn parts limiting clutch lift amount. The two clutches ive worked on both had badly worn parts in this assembly...arm and or the pivot pin. Need to take gb cover off to access these.

 

[johnm]

The operating lever in the gearbox can drop out of position against the ball bearing. May be worth checking?

Important point. This happened very often with mine and you almost need two people. One to keep it sitting right while the second took up the slack in the cable. I could do it by myself but often back and forth a few times.