Cush drive "rubbers"......

NickZ said:
Be careful doing this. When I used red rubber grease to help the paddle insertion, some of the grease migrated into the brake drum as it heated up. Ruined rear brake effectiveness.
Click to expand...
How the hell did grease get from behind the brake drum, towards the axle (against centrifugal force) along the inside of the drum bore, past the bearing and seal and into the drum?
 
That is not the path it took. If the riveting (or what ever the attachment of the paddles to the drum is called) does not fully seal, it will leave gaps. If that is the case, the melted grease can easily flow directly thru the gaps into the drum.
 
Andy Higham said:
I've pulled the trigger on a Madass / Don Pender cush drive hub. I am already rebuilding the rear wheel so I wont need to touch the original now. I can sell the original on and recoup some of the cost
Click to expand...
Andy,
Let us know how the Madass kit works out for you. I have always had good luck dealing with Don with everything he makes.
Mike
 
Andy Higham said:
It's on It's way according to the tracking. Due Thursday
Click to expand...
I have Don's cush hub setup. On mine there is a pretty loose fit. Much slack at the rim. Not happy Don said you will never feel it. Took some pieces of alloy sheet and glued them in to take out slack. Does it help does it matter? Seems to me it does. Reminds me of a very slack chain when you load and unload the driveline.
Having a BNR clutch felt it necessary to provide some cush. Also wanted to be able to get the wheel off if I had
a flat out on road and more importantly back on again. The rubber buffers are huge compared to stock early
type. Overall I say a good upgrade.
 
Onder said:
I have Don's cush hub setup. On mine there is a pretty loose fit. Much slack at the rim. Not happy Don said you will never feel it. Took some pieces of alloy sheet and glued them in to take out slack. Does it help does it matter? Seems to me it does. Reminds me of a very slack chain when you load and unload the driveline.
Having a BNR clutch felt it necessary to provide some cush. Also wanted to be able to get the wheel off if I had
a flat out on road and more importantly back on again. The rubber buffers are huge compared to stock early
type. Overall I say a good upgrade.
Click to expand...
How many miles on the big cush hub?
The bike overall?

Have you ever rebuilt the transmission? Replaced gears?

Thank you for indulging
 
Onder said:
I have Don's cush hub setup. On mine there is a pretty loose fit. Much slack at the rim. Not happy Don said you will never feel it. Took some pieces of alloy sheet and glued them in to take out slack. Does it help does it matter? Seems to me it does. Reminds me of a very slack chain when you load and unload the driveline.
Having a BNR clutch felt it necessary to provide some cush. Also wanted to be able to get the wheel off if I had
a flat out on road and more importantly back on again. The rubber buffers are huge compared to stock early
type. Overall I say a good upgrade.
Click to expand...
Same sloppy fit on mine too, about 12 mm backlash movement at the rim. No problem Don said. I didn’t like it so applied some rubber strips to the outside of the cush rubbers. It’s about 3mm at the rim now. I also had one of his early cush hubs fitted with a crap 4203 2RS brake hub bearing that collapsed. He said he has changed them for a better one now.

Two other Commando owners I know had the same backlash. It could be totally unrelated of course but one of them, who hasn’t altered the back lash yet, has repeatedly had spokes break.
 
Last edited:
I’m another Commando owner with backlash on Don’s hub. I sliced up an old inner tube and stuck some strips in to fill the gaps a few years ago and it helped.
 
marshg246 said:
I would call that a bad drum in need of replacing and also using way too much grease.
Click to expand...
That's why I posted that people should be careful if doing this.
I don't remember using an excessive amount of grease, but obviously it was too much.

Regarding the drum, out of a sample of 4, I have seen 2 drums with paddles that can rotate slightly. This led me to believe that this might be normal. Now looking into it, I see that the paddle to drum attachment method has changed over time, likely to fix that issue.

Cush drive "rubbers"......Cush drive "rubbers"......Cush drive "rubbers"......
1972 (paddles move) New from AN (no movement) 1974 (no movement)
 
Onder said:
I have Don's cush hub setup. On mine there is a pretty loose fit. Much slack at the rim. Not happy Don said you will never feel it. Took some pieces of alloy sheet and glued them in to take out slack. Does it help does it matter? Seems to me it does. Reminds me of a very slack chain when you load and unload the driveline.
Having a BNR clutch felt it necessary to provide some cush. Also wanted to be able to get the wheel off if I had
a flat out on road and more importantly back on again. The rubber buffers are huge compared to stock early
type. Overall I say a good upgrade.
Click to expand...
Order,
What is a BNR clutch?
Thanks,Mike
 
Cush drive has been processed at East Midlands, expected delivery by end of day 26/02.
2 days from Philippines to East Midlands, around 6500 miles. 4 days from East Midlands to Bolton, around 100 miles
 
There is backlash, but not excessive. There is backlash on my 5000 mile 209mpm Ninja H2

If it feels uncomfortable I will shim. The backlash also makes assembly easier
 
NickZ said:
That's why I posted that people should be careful if doing this.
I don't remember using an excessive amount of grease, but obviously it was too much.

Regarding the drum, out of a sample of 4, I have seen 2 drums with paddles that can rotate slightly. This led me to believe that this might be normal. Now looking into it, I see that the paddle to drum attachment method has changed over time, likely to fix that issue.

View attachment 123884View attachment 123885View attachment 123886
1972 (paddles move) New from AN (no movement) 1974 (no movement)
Click to expand...
At the risk of hijacking the thread I have a 72 drum on my bench with one paddle quite loose like photo one. Is there a standard way to address this to keep the offending drum in service?
 

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