Aluminum corrosion Protectant

MichaelB

MichaelB

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What's the go to product for raw aluminum protection, especially the fork lowers.
Thought there was a thread for this. Couldn't find it.
 
MichaelB said:
What's the go to product for raw aluminum protection, especially the fork lowers.
Thought there was a thread for this. Couldn't find it.
Click to expand...
If well polished in most environments, generally none required.

Aluminum self-protects: "Aluminum’s unique self-protective properties come from the formation of a thin, highly adherent aluminum oxide (Al2O3) layer. Upon exposure to oxygen, aluminum reacts to form aluminum oxide, creating a dense and impermeable barrier that prevents further oxidation of the underlying aluminum. This oxide layer is self-repairing; if scratched or damaged, the exposed aluminum quickly re-oxidizes, restoring the protective layer."

However, in salty air: "Salt air, containing chloride ions, can significantly affect aluminum surfaces, leading to corrosion. The chloride ions disrupt the protective oxide layer on aluminum, causing localized corrosion such as pitting. This process is electrochemical in nature, involving anodic metal dissolution and cathodic oxygen reduction reactions. Salt exposure can induce several types of corrosion on aluminum, including pitting corrosion, crevice corrosion, and galvanic corrosion. To mitigate salt air corrosion, it is essential to apply protective coatings and ensure proper maintenance of aluminum components exposed to salty air."
 
Wax tends to be sticky. Alodine is yellow, but its competitor is Iridite which is colourless. Both have hexavalent chromium in them.
 
marshg246 said:
If well polished in most environments, generally none required.

Aluminum self-protects: "Aluminum’s unique self-protective properties come from the formation of a thin, highly adherent aluminum oxide (Al2O3) layer. Upon exposure to oxygen, aluminum reacts to form aluminum oxide, creating a dense and impermeable barrier that prevents further oxidation of the underlying aluminum. This oxide layer is self-repairing; if scratched or damaged, the exposed aluminum quickly re-oxidizes, restoring the protective layer."

However, in salty air: "Salt air, containing chloride ions, can significantly affect aluminum surfaces, leading to corrosion. The chloride ions disrupt the protective oxide layer on aluminum, causing localized corrosion such as pitting. This process is electrochemical in nature, involving anodic metal dissolution and cathodic oxygen reduction reactions. Salt exposure can induce several types of corrosion on aluminum, including pitting corrosion, crevice corrosion, and galvanic corrosion. To mitigate salt air corrosion, it is essential to apply protective coatings and ensure proper maintenance of aluminum components exposed to salty air."
Click to expand...
Unfortunately, the aluminum oxide coating is what causes the dull finish that most are trying to remove by polishing to a 'mirror' finish. Once polished aluminum begins to oxidize as soon as it is exposed to air (oxygen). Waxes in most of the better polishes prolongs the bright finish.
 
Ron L said:
Unfortunately, the aluminum oxide coating is what causes the dull finish that most are trying to remove by polishing to a 'mirror' finish. Once polished aluminum begins to oxidize as soon as it is exposed to air (oxygen). Waxes in most of the better polishes prolongs the bright finish.
Click to expand...
My polished sliders stay polished a long time. I'm not talking about a mirror polish. Aluminum oxide happens within seconds.

As I said, in certain environments (salt air) a different reaction happens - then you need to protect it instantly.
 
acotrel said:
hexavalent chromium
Click to expand...
Hexavalent chromium (Cr(VI)) is a highly toxic, carcinogenic form of chromium used in industrial applications like stainless steel welding, chrome plating, and pigments. It poses severe health risks, including lung cancer (via inhalation), skin ulcers, and liver/kidney damage.

I'm sticking to wax.
 
Ron L said:
Unfortunately, the aluminum oxide coating is what causes the dull finish that most are trying to remove by polishing to a 'mirror' finish. Once polished aluminum begins to oxidize as soon as it is exposed to air (oxygen). Waxes in most of the better polishes prolongs the bright finish.
Click to expand...
This.
Is accurate.
 
Last edited:
robs ss said:
+1 on White Diamond! It polishes without scouring and leaves a protective layer.
Click to expand...
Ok, have just bought some. Am not much of a polisher, but I do prefer it clean. And once or twice a year it does get a bit of Solvol thrown at it. I will see how I get on with the (not very Scot-friendly priced) White Diamond...

Andy
 
I too use White Diamond, both Polish and Super Sheen since RobbSS’ recommendation. I apply it using a Mothers Polishing Foam Cone on a hand drill, wipe off the black residue with a cotton ( NOT microfibre as they leave ultra fine scratches on a mirrored surface) rag [ old T shirt) and then buff with a small cotton buffing mop on the drill. Once you’ve got to the desired level of sheen it’s very easy to maintain. I do this twice a year and ride throughout the year. Should I encounter salt just wash after the ride once cold and dry with pet blower, 30 min job max. No pitting or suchlike ever! I also wipe the fork sliders after each ride if I’ve encountered any wet roads upon my return, just a habit of mine🤣
 
I just use Mother's as it seems to my tired eyes to be as good as the others I have tried. After polishing I use cornstarch on an old T-shirt, that gets any oily residue off. But maybe the leftover polish is a protectant? Works for me, anyway.
 
gpzkat said:
I just use Mother's as it seems to my tired eyes to be as good as the others I have tried. After polishing I use cornstarch on an old T-shirt, that gets any oily residue off. But maybe the leftover polish is a protectant? Works for me, anyway.
Click to expand...
Correct, the "oily residue" is wax. Keep rubbing with clean cotton and it will shine, and last pretty well.
Back to the OP question.
Wax.
Blocks out oxygen.
 
Keeping a glossy wax job on the hull of a fiberglass (or as the UK say Glassfibre) boat cooking in the sun and attacked daily by salt water taught me that all waxes are not created equal.

If the polished aluminum parts on your motorcycle stay away from salt, almost any polishing compound is all you need. With the occasional bath in soapy water, followed by a towel dry.

If you create a bright polished aluminum finish on your bike and you want it to last, apply a wax barrier coat.
Use a paste wax with a high carnuba content. Nothing else stands up as well, and is as easy to remove once it starts to fail.
Liquid waxes are a compromise. Silicone waxes are a mugs game. Clear coat is a nightmare once it starts to fail.
Carnuba paste wax. You heard it here.
 

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