Drive chain lifespan / tensioner options

[tompkins]

Bought a cheap caltric final drive chain and it’s lifespan seems… short. I know everybody will lambast me and say, “that’s whatcha get for buying cheep!” and I already know it. The plan all along was to just get er rolling and then play around. First time Norton owner here- what’s the average life for a non oring standard duty 530 roller chain of good quality? Even the cheapies seem to last longer on my triumph and Hondas… although they are no Norton! Furthermore, those trick narrow RK UWR sealed chains seem to be the ticket, but at like 200 bux… I could buy a lotta cheapies at that rate.

Second thought- the chain adjuster setup on the 750 is… substandard. Bought some adjusters for an 850 which are of the same type as most normal bikes (IE they go around the swingarm ends and the axle goes through em) but neglected to think about clearance on the bizarre drum brake setup… has anyone retrofitted their 750 to 850 chain adjusters without mangling things up, and if so, pictures perhaps? It would be weird to put a rear disc on a front drum bike, but the benefits of doing an entire 850 rear wheel (big Cush, disc brake , actual chain adjusters) is getting more and more attractive the more I ride this bike and the closer I get to taking it touring this summer…

Sorry for the long post. Lots of musings while we dream the dream of spring…

 

[concours]

Bought a cheap caltric final drive chain and it’s lifespan seems… short. I know everybody will lambast me and say, “that’s whatcha get for buying cheep!” and I already know it. The plan all along was to just get er rolling and then play around. First time Norton owner here- what’s the average life for a non oring standard duty 530 roller chain of good quality? Even the cheapies seem to last longer on my triumph and Hondas… although they are no Norton! Furthermore, those trick narrow RK UWR sealed chains seem to be the ticket, but at like 200 bux… I could buy a lotta cheapies at that rate.

Second thought- the chain adjuster setup on the 750 is… substandard. Bought some adjusters for an 850 which are of the same type as most normal bikes (IE they go around the swingarm ends and the axle goes through em) but neglected to think about clearance on the bizarre drum brake setup… has anyone retrofitted their 750 to 850 chain adjusters without mangling things up, and if so, pictures perhaps? It would be weird to put a rear disc on a front drum bike, but the benefits of doing an entire 850 rear wheel (big Cush, disc brake , actual chain adjusters) is getting more and more attractive the more I ride this bike and the closer I get to taking it touring this summer…

Sorry for the long post. Lots of musings while we dream the dream of spring…

5,000 miles from non o-ring. Lubed regularly.

 

[tompkins]

5,000 miles from non o-ring. Lubed regularly.

Dang, speedy reply! Many thanks- I got about 6500 and we’re nearing the end of the adjusters. I might make a lil more, but it’s getting too sketchy for me.

 

[concours]

Dang, speedy reply! Many thanks- I got about 6500 and we’re nearing the end of the adjusters. I might make a lil more, but it’s getting too sketchy for me.

At $29 for a namebrand non-O-ring chain, when I was running them, I just threw it over my shoulder every season. You can pay five times as much, or more, but the RK non-O-ring chain replaced regularly is pretty cheap living.

This is a trusted vendor that I've used for years for a lot of different things. These RK chains are cheap enough to keep two on the shelf and chuck them at the moment they're anywhere near the end of their life.

RK Chain RK-M 530 Standard Chain Natural Finish

Purchase the RK Chain RK-M 530 Standard Chain Natural Finish from SportbikeTrackGear.com. Get the lowest price, free shipping deal, easy exchanges and no restocking fees - Guaranteed!

www.sportbiketrackgear.com

By replacing them early, before they get excessively elongated. There will be no adverse effect on the sprockets.

Remember, chains are a consumable item. Are there better chains? absolutely. but if you're realistic, how many miles you will actually put on the bike the decision is easier. If you're gonna spend significantly more money, the choice is clear to change to an x-ring type chain, which has a far greater lifespan. The notion of spending five times as much on a regular non-sealed chain is just crazy to me.

 

[MexicoMike]

FWIW - I have nearly 20k+ miles on an X ring sealed chain and there is still most of the total adjustment left. I have never "lubricated" the chain - just wipe it down occasionally with a rag damp with WD40.

 

[ludwig]

If you decide to use cheap chain, buy 2 and alternate when they show some slack. You will get more life out them and you sprockets.

 

[Bonzo]

FWIW - I have nearly 20k+ miles on an X ring sealed chain and there is still most of the total adjustment left. I have never "lubricated" the chain - just wipe it down occasionally with a rag damp with WD40.

Does it run close to/interfere with the primary cover?

 

[concours]

If you decide to use cheap chain, buy 2 and alternate when they show some slack. You will get more life out them and you sprockets.

Do they last longer when rested?

 

[ludwig]

Do they last longer when rested?

Yes and no.
When you use one chain to its maximum wear ( say 2 % stretch) it will also have worn the sprockets somewhat, especially near the end of its usefull life. If you then install a new chain, it will wear excessively while adapting to the ( even slightly ) worn sprockets.
Alternating between 2 chains , ( 3 would even be better..) The sprockets and chains will wear evenly and last longer.
Best is of course to replace chain and sprockets together, but then your 'cheap' 5000 mls chain becomes very expensive.

 

[concours]

Yes and no.
When you use one chain to its maximum wear ( say 2 % stretch) it will also have worn the sprockets somewhat, especially near the end of its usefull life. If you then install a new chain, it will wear excessively while adapting to the ( even slightly ) worn sprockets.
Alternating between 2 chains , ( 3 would even be better..) The sprockets and chains will wear evenly and last longer.
Best is of course to replace chain and sprockets together, but then your 'cheap' 5000 mls chain becomes very expensive.

I say throw them in the bin at 2%.

We must be having a communication difference.

You wouldn't put the worn chain back on, correct.

Replacing chain & sprockets together is not a good idea when it's also a brake drum.

 

[ludwig]

I say throw them in the bin at 2%.

We must be having a communication difference.

You wouldn't put the worn chain back on, correct.

Replacing chain & sprockets together is not a good idea when it's also a brake drum.

I mean alternating the chains every 500 miles, or so.
Personally I use 520 x ring and replace them at slightly over 1% stretch.

 

[robertv]

I bought a chain from Andover/Norton. $100. So far so good. I keep it clean and lubed. A friend swears by Reynolds for his Nortons.

 

[Torontonian]

I bought a chain from Andover/Norton. $100. So far so good. I keep it clean and lubed. A friend swears by Reynolds for his Nortons.

I bought an IWIS chain from Jason the chain man . With a new front sprocket to fit . The big rear sprocket shows the least wear .
Great chain . Can't say enough all goodness about it . 2 years on it with plenty of miles , fastidious cleaning after each big trip and then 80/90 Weight gear oil applied by squirt bottle and rag to the clean chain . I've got several new Reynolds chains in boxes in storage , cheaper yes , but the Iwis is superb . The key , despite brand , is cleaning away dirt and dust as soon as it's noticed , then apply good lube . I'm wiping on tranny oil from here on in , no sprays for me . Plug up the stock automatic chain oiler forever if not done already , at the tank spout . Enjoy .