Cleaning my new to me 73' Norton Commando

[Mountagrous]

I also use varsol as a first step to clean a dirty oily bike. Mineral spirits is pretty similar to Varsol. Pretty sure white gas is more volatile than varsol, but will work. In the good old days people used gasoline. Kerosene also works, but it stinks. Paint thinner is very similar to Varsol, if available in your part of the world.
Use lots of soft rags soaked in the solvent. Turn them frequently as you are picking up grit. Toss the rags frequently (mine go in a wood stove). Never use a gritty solvent rag on anything chrome, painted, polished, or plastic.
Wear disposable gloves because the solvents go through skin and attack the liver.
After the solvent use soap and water in moderation, and a fine abrasive polish on alloys. And maybe the paint, depending on condition.
Don't use abrasive polish on chrome, you will never get the scratches out.
If the engine, gearbox, center stand, and swing arm are really greasy, start there with an engine degreaser.

Thank you for this. I will pick up mineral spirits locally and use that as you described. I do have a lot of grime so with use the engine degreaser where you mentioned to start off.

 

[Mountagrous]

I bought some Clean-myride.com spray in the UK recently. Just used it for first time to degrease the tappet covers after polishing: it worked brilliantly. It is alkaline based, with almost no smell, and yellow dye added , so you can see where it has covered on a bike. Has very good reviews too. Streak-free finish on many tricky surfaces too!

If I can find it I’ll give it a go, not sure even if it’s available online I can get it here in the states.

 

[Mountagrous]

If your new to Commandos I can definitely recommend the mini series collections from Mike on YouTube Mighty Garage.


For example this series on renovating a Fireflake Bronze tanked Commando.

.

He also has a couple of collection on his Black Mk2A bike.

Mike is very methodical and has a good teaching manner. Some people might think it a bit slow but I find the delivery very mature and even after 50 years of playing with Commando I learn a few things. Of course sometimes I might differ with some steps but your certainly not going to go wrong if you follow his process.

It's a site I check out every few weeks to see what's been happening

I’ve been subscribing to his YouTube channel for a few months now. He lives in Oregon or Washington I believe so many of the products he uses I have access to. I to believe his approach is very methodical and a somewhat calming tone.

 

[marshg246]

Thank you for this. I will pick up mineral spirits locally and use that as you described. I do have a lot of grime so with use the engine degreaser where you mentioned to start off.

BTW, a brass brush can be used with WD40 or mineral spirts on most metal surfaces, including aluminum and chrome to help loosen tough deposits but never use a stainless steel brush. For painted surfaces, brass is usually OK, but nylon is safer.

 

[htown16]

WD-40 is available in gallon cans to use with a hand squeeze bottle. It is much more cost effective than the little aerosol cans.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/WD-40-Original-WD-40-Formula-Multi-Purpose-Lubricant-1-Gallon-For-Heavy-Duty-Use/50111786

 

[Mountagrous]

BTW, a brass brush can be used with WD40 or mineral spirts on most metal surfaces, including aluminum and chrome to help loosen tough deposits but never use a stainless steel brush. For painted surfaces, brass is usually OK, but nylon is safer.

Good info, I just grabbed a new set of brass, steel and nylon and was thinking how I can incorporate them.

 

[Mountagrous]

WD-40 is available in gallon cans to use with a hand squeeze bottle. It is much more cost effective than the little aerosol cans.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/WD-40-Original-WD-40-Formula-Multi-Purpose-Lubricant-1-Gallon-For-Heavy-Duty-Use/50111786

I have a Lowes by me. I'll grab that, wasn't aware that it came in gallon form.

 

[Mountagrous]

I also use varsol as a first step to clean a dirty oily bike. Mineral spirits is pretty similar to Varsol. Pretty sure white gas is more volatile than varsol, but will work. In the good old days people used gasoline. Kerosene also works, but it stinks. Paint thinner is very similar to Varsol, if available in your part of the world.
Use lots of soft rags soaked in the solvent. Turn them frequently as you are picking up grit. Toss the rags frequently (mine go in a wood stove). Never use a gritty solvent rag on anything chrome, painted, polished, or plastic.
Wear disposable gloves because the solvents go through skin and attack the liver.
After the solvent use soap and water in moderation, and a fine abrasive polish on alloys. And maybe the paint, depending on condition.
Don't use abrasive polish on chrome, you will never get the scratches out.
If the engine, gearbox, center stand, and swing arm are really greasy, start there with an engine degreaser.

Thank you for that information. The tossing of the rags was not something I thought about but makes sense.

 

[Onder]

Varsol is used in aviation by the 55 gallon drum. We used to wash our bike engines off with it. Roll up to the watering hole and the denizens were always impressed how we had leak free brit bikes. Er, not really but
they didn't know. Wish I still had use of it.

 

[gpzkat]

I gave up on solvents for general degreasing a long time ago and have fully degreased and prepped dozens of grimed out basket case parts, engines, and full bikes to paint / polish level with dollar-store yellow spray degreaser. 'LA's Awesome' will cut through anything, save carbon/varnish level baked on gook. No, I don't get a cut of the $1.25 it now costs, just a recommendation. I'm sure there's a reason I shouldn't be saving big money and cleaning stuff up as good as it can get, but I haven't heard why yet.

 

[Stephen Hill]

A useful tool for cleaning a dirty bike: take a couple of old paint brushes of different widths and shorten up the bristles by about half. This creates a brush that is stiff enough to move the debris and won't abrade the surface you are working on. And it gets in to all the little nooks and crannies which are normally hard to clean.
You can use it with solvent or with soap and water, depending which cleaning stage you are at.

 

[Deckard]

Your Commando appears to be a '72, not '73 by the taillight. Not uncommon to have a earlier year titled and registered next calendar year. May also be a Combat. You'd have to check for a "C" stamped on the front of the head near the top ISO and 932 carbs. Obviously you'll need a chainguard for safety.
I used Green Stuff and power wash, blow dry with my compressor. All the other methods recommended work.

 

[gpzkat]

Funny thing, after my endorsement of cheapo surfactant cleaner, I spent today going through a large storage unit and was told 'take what you want' (well don't take the guns, ammo, rare coins and gold, stamps, etc.) So now I have 4 XL cans of 1980s era 'Gunk', and 'Foaming Gunk' that still shoot, several gallons of Coleman white gas (AKA naptha), and all sorts of new/old tools & collectible/questionable magazines. Maybe I'll come back and say that Gunk is king!

 

[Mountagrous]

Your Commando appears to be a '72, not '73 by the taillight. Not uncommon to have a earlier year titled and registered next calendar year. May also be a Combat. You'd have to check for a "C" stamped on the front of the head near the top ISO and 932 carbs. Obviously you'll need a chainguard for safety.
I used Green Stuff and power wash, blow dry with my compressor. All the other methods recommended work.

Interesting you say that because I have gone back and forth in my research using the serial/v.i.n# the stamped plate say's July of 72' the vin look up says 73 based on the 209# of the vin. It was registered as a 73' in NM where I purchased it and here in Colorado as a 73'. I have been unable to find the Combat "C" in my attempts to look for it where it should be. All #'s match but getting a good history from the previous owner who bought it at an estate sale and "restored" it has also been hard to come by.

I guess it doesn't matter much they didn't change much within those two years. I just want to make sure in sourcing parts I don't buy the wrong ones. By Green Stuff is that the brand or another name for Simple Green if not I'll look for that all the other recommendations you offered I have and will be using. Thanks Deckard.

 

[L.A.B.]

Interesting you say that because I have gone back and forth in my research using the serial/v.i.n# the stamped plate say's July of 72' the vin look up says 73 based on the 209# of the vin.

July '72 would be about correct. Where did you get the VIN look up information for 209xxx being '73 as that is certainly wrong.

For instance they were up to 212278 by November '72.

 

[batrider]

The Combat "C" may be hidden by the headsteady bolted to the head. By July 72 I think the Combat bearing problems were being addressed. My bike has Jan 72 on the plate but may have been reworked and then sent out in June 72 based on crossed out entries in the factory serial number book.

 

[L.A.B.]

By July 72 I think the Combat bearing problems were being addressed.

No, not until after Combat production ended.

 

[Matt Spencer]

I am new to these bikes coming from a 73' Honda CB450.

If youve not right foot shifted , Sitting in the ockpit till you can hit every switch , blindfolded , was the proceedure . In Spitfires etc .
As the Nortons just as lethal , Siton it & play ' shift the gear lever ' so youve at least some ' muscle memory ' before you have at it .

Sometimes some people use their heel , gently , on the rear brake , when coming to a standstill .
DONT clobber the shift lever with No 10 boots . It snicks in with your toe .

 

[Mountagrous]

I am new to these bikes coming from a 73' Honda CB450.

If youve not right foot shifted , Sitting in the ockpit till you can hit every switch , blindfolded , was the proceedure . In Spitfires etc .
As the Nortons just as lethal , Siton it & play ' shift the gear lever ' so youve at least some ' muscle memory ' before you have at it .

Sometimes some people use their heel , gently , on the rear brake , when coming to a standstill .
DONT clobber the shift lever with No 10 boots . It snicks in with your toe .

That has been an insane adjustment, probably comparable to manual shifting from Europe to U.S.

I will say it has to be easier with your feet than having to use your left arm if that is not your dominant hand/arm.

 

[Carl H]

Just remember the front brake and clutch are always in the same old place. Think of GP Pattern, 1 up and then all down. I used to put it on my gas cap for the guys who rode them , 1 up , 3 down.

It's amazing how most of the men had raced a Commando over the years of their careers. And they effortlessly rode, to go out and race them very fast after a few practice laps, But their skill with cornering speeds and late braking, really proved their abilities and why they were all Champions. They certainly had a higher lack of fear factor than I ever did. And luckily my equipment gave them the platform to put on a great show and get into Victory Circle one more time. And sadly, for some the last time.