Another! oil pressure question...

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Nov 19, 2024
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Hello all! Having a strange oil pressure reading that I can't quite get my head around. Read Dan1950's threads about his OPRV and weird oil pressure after rebuild, and while I'm having a similar problem, it's not quite the same. 1971 750 Commando. Just rebuilt the motor, new JS ultralightweight longer rods n pistons bored 40 over, new STD big end shells, crank polished (not reground) new AN roller main bearings, original cam, bushes and lifters, removed timed breather disc and spring, blocked off breather port, went with NYC norton sump breather. AMR modded OPRV discharge and put seals in the oil pump along with the check ball and spring in the timing case. New seals all around. Head rebuilt concurrently with kibblewhite black diamond valves and standard springs, new rocker shafts, original rockers.

Bike runs like a top! Trouble is, oil pressure drops off after a long hot ride. I live in a place where it is generally really hot in the summer (+100 highs, generally for a month or so) and I'm wondering if my pressure gauge acts more like a temperature gauge. Cold oil shows 60-65 psi, first 20-30 miles into a journey shows oil pressure around 40-45psi. Then oil pressure usually drops off around mile 30 or so to 15-20psi as the oil in the tank heats up to really hot. Usually cruising at 70-80 using the rest of the tank of fuel it hovers around 15 psi. Stopping in traffic, the pressure at idle when reeeeel hot shows like 0-5psi, which i'm told isn't all that unusual. Comes back up to 15-20 when you get rolling around 3000-4000 rpm. Oil is returning to the oil tank normally even when at hot idle, showing the 0-5psi. ORPV is new from andover, 2 shims, pulled and reinstalled to ensure no binding, everything is smooth as silk.

This is the first bike ever that I've put an oil pressure gauge on, so other than reading here, I've never known or cared what the oil pressure was in any of my 5 other vintage bikes. My CB750 has an oil pressure light, and that's up town for me! Am I worried over nothing, as there is adequate flow returning, and over several hundred miles there's been no damage? I'm about to do the 500 mile oil dump and I'm thinking about pulling the timing cover to check the oring on the oil pump, but... if it was gone or shot, wouldn't there be like zero oil pressure all the time? Mexicomike and marshg have mentioned that the oil pressure gauge is... superfluous at best. Should I chuck it?

Further oddity- took the bike up our mountain pass to 11000 feet this weekend and when we got up where it was colder, the oil pressure went from 15ish back up to 30-35ish! I have no idea what that means. Maybe install an oil cooler! Or just ride in winter....
 
oh yeah, oil pressure taken off of timing side exhaust rocker plate, and if bike is allowed to cool off for a period (i.e. stopping for tasty bevvies or gas) the pressure cycle starts over, high to low
 
oh yeah, oil pressure taken off of timing side exhaust rocker plate, and if bike is allowed to cool off for a period (i.e. stopping for tasty bevvies or gas) the pressure cycle starts over, high to low
Are your rocker shafts the correct way around , mine weren't and this added 10psi , are you on running in oil ? Or need to go to 25-60 , 1 more shim to relief , will bring it up . If your ignition is retarded your engine will run hotter , mine when I got it had electronic ignition fitted but was set to the factory 28 , the header pipes were black and I burnt my ankle from the searing heat , now reset to 31 deg as per Electronic ignition manufacturer, it runs so much better .
 
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I just bent a small piece of .80 wire and trimmed it to slide up the rocker shaft ,to feel for the hole, if you have your motor hot and they are the wrong way around , you can just turn them around , I think there are some flats . Cheers
 
Well you have hit your lucky day! Look at some hot weather motor oil we have on offer in the Olde Country!
A DEAL!
 
Well you have hit your lucky day! Look at some hot weather motor oil we have on offer in the Olde Country!
A DEAL!
Probably because it's superseded - by PENRITE CLASSIC MEDIUM 25W-70 (Mineral)
The new product's Zinc & Phosphorus levels (ppm) are 1800 & 1560 respectively!
Cheers
 
Hi all. Regarding oil pressure, i finally got my 72 750 together last october, from boxes of junk. 2 years and a lot of money and a steep Norton learning curve, a lot from this forum, thanks to all. As i am in hydraulics, thought i would be smart and install a pressure switch and gauge test point from rocker box. Also made an o ring sealing washer for the pressure relief valve. Got bike started and riding around w/shop car park, when the engine got hot i lost oil pressure at idle, light would come on. Pressure gauge confirmed the situation. After much searching i found i was losing a lot of oil around the thread of the relief valve. My thick sealing washer was making it worse as only a couple of threads were engaged at the bottom and the thread is very sloppy in the housing. Ended up disposing of my sealing washer, using hydraulic sealant on the bottom of the relief valve and also on the upper threads a little bit and not using the copper washer. Pressure problem solved. 45 psi cold idle, 45 psi hot idle. Done 3500 miles since March and no oil pressure problems. I think the sloppy threads of the relief valve could be a major reason for a lot of oil pressure problems. All the best, Graham.
 
Well you have hit your lucky day! Look at some hot weather motor oil we have on offer in the Olde Country!
A DEAL!

That’s an interesting oil, not seen a 25w70 before. Wet clutch friendly too. I might try that in the transmission and primary on the 961 and see if it helps reduce the clatter …

Edit: just noticed the price… avin a larf 🤣

It appears discontinued, I’ll try contacting Penrite to see if what has superseded it is also wet clutch friendly.
 
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"This is the first bike ever that I've put an oil pressure gauge on, so other than reading here, I've never known or cared what the oil pressure was in any of my 5 other vintage bikes."

There you go! Putting an oil pressure gauge on a vintage machine just gives you something to worry about. These (and other vintage machines) ran (and are still running) for many thousands of miles without anyone worrying about oil pressure.
 
Probably because it's superseded - by PENRITE CLASSIC MEDIUM 25W-70 (Mineral)
The new product's Zinc & Phosphorus levels (ppm) are 1800 & 1560 respectively!
Cheers
You are correct Rob, I spoke with the Penrite importer here and that is the replacement for the ‘Enduro’ oil (in fact they believe it is, and always was, the same oil) and it is also wet clutch friendly.

Got 4l arriving tomorrow to try in the 961 …
 
How did you determine the crank would get away with a polish rather than a regrind.

If you have an AMR anti sump valve then you would have needed to block off the outlet in the cases with a threaded bung, this may be leaking.

See first pic post 2

 
How did you determine the crank would get away with a polish rather than a regrind.

If you have an AMR anti sump valve then you would have needed to block off the outlet in the cases with a threaded bung, this may be leaking.

See first pic post 2

Sorry im not the OP , but spent more than 2 years grinding crankshaft on a schou crank grinder , we'll your question can easily be answered, they used to make very comprehensive bearing books , from Vandervell, repco etc for cars anyway , your manual has some of the info but basically it has the top and bottom limit they are usually. 001" , apart, those books also had the bigend tunnel size and again high and low limits , I was always amazed at the minimum clearance could be .0008" or so , mainly because a friend bought a V8 351windsor in bits that had been ground and bored etc and the clearance on one big end was .0008" the min spec we gave it a polish , removed naff all and that motor never gave any issues , it had good oil pressure .🙂 that was a 2.311 std size, it was ground though, normally have .002+ , we generally like to grind to suit the new measured bearings in the torqued rod etc .
 
Sorry im not the OP , but spent more than 2 years grinding crankshaft on a schou crank grinder , we'll your question can easily be answered, they used to make very comprehensive bearing books , from Vandervell, repco etc for cars anyway , your manual has some of the info but basically it has the top and bottom limit they are usually. 001" , apart, those books also had the bigend tunnel size and again high and low limits , I was always amazed at the minimum clearance could be .0008" or so , mainly because a friend bought a V8 351windsor in bits that had been ground and bored etc and the clearance on one big end was .0008" the min spec we gave it a polish , removed naff all and that motor never gave any issues , it had good oil pressure .🙂 that was a 2.311 std size, it was ground though, normally have .002+ , we generally like to grind to suit the new measured bearings in the torqued rod etc .
I know the answer, I was asking the OP for how he or his grinder determined a polish would suffice.
 
How did you determine the crank would get away with a polish rather than a regrind.

If you have an AMR anti sump valve then you would have needed to block off the outlet in the cases with a threaded bung, this may be leaking.

See first pic post 2

yeah, threaded the hole and installed the grub screw with some loctite per the instructions mike @ AMR sent. My machinist mic'd the crank when we were checking the cylinder bore and said that the crank was in spec and didn't need ground. Clearance on the big ends looked good when I plastigauged it before final assembly
 
yeah, threaded the hole and installed the grub screw with some loctite per the instructions mike @ AMR sent. My machinist mic'd the crank when we were checking the cylinder bore and said that the crank was in spec and didn't need ground. Clearance on the big ends looked good when I plastigauged it before final assembly
By the book then 👍
 
You are correct Rob, I spoke with the Penrite importer here and that is the replacement for the ‘Enduro’ oil (in fact they believe it is, and always was, the same oil) and it is also wet clutch friendly.

Got 4l arriving tomorrow to try in the 961 …
Well I must ask what you paid. I was amazed only you saw the price asked in my post.
 
Its a common ploy in Ebay by commercial sellers to amend a listing to a huge price instead of deleting the listing. Used a lot when the seller is out of stock, knows more is coming but wants to save the bother of writing out the listing again. But sometimes they just forget, especially when the new stock never arrives.
 
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Yes, your oil pressure gage is acting like a temperature indicator. Pressure is a little low when hot. Oil cooler will help. Also I put a new Andover norton oil pump and significantly increased pressure and minimized wet sumping. A good decision.
 
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