Any ideas?

seattle##gs

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I received a 73 Commando with an 18" rear wheel. The shocks are standard 12.9" long. The problem is that now it's a real bear to haul it up on the center stand including the possibility of tipping over every time.
The solution (s) is to put the original 19" rim and tire back on. Approx $700, rim, tire, spokes and labor. Or change shock length, perhaps 1/2" longer? and much cheaper. What is the downside of using longer shocks?
 
I use 13.5" shocks on my 850, 18" Rear and 19" front, K81 Dunlops. Mostly to get the rake and trail back to standard.
Centerstand works fine, but the rear wheel is pretty close to the ground - My centerstand pivots may need to be looked into.
 
If you have a welder or a mate with one just shorten it a bit
Or junk the centre stand
 
I received a 73 Commando with an 18" rear wheel. The shocks are standard 12.9" long. The problem is that now it's a real bear to haul it up on the center stand including the possibility of tipping over every time.
The solution (s) is to put the original 19" rim and tire back on. Approx $700, rim, tire, spokes and labor. Or change shock length, perhaps 1/2" longer? and much cheaper. What is the downside of using longer shocks?
IMHO, the only noticeable downside of longer shocks is interference with the chain guard. the 13.4" shocks have the standard-length bottom part. Proper Norton rear shocks have a longer bottom part. The new Girling shocks have a little adjustment in overall length and bottom length which might resolve that.

I see no reason why the rear wheel will make it significantly hard to put on the center stand with the later stand that is on a 73. Stand on the stand lever and lift the frame with your right hand. My right shoulder is destroyed and needs to be replaced and I can still easily do it. I did it several times yesterday with a 73 850 Interstate with a full tank of gas and a cNw e-start. You may need to look into the stand itself.

You could test by putting the rear wheel on a 1x4 and see if it is actually easier (a 1x4 will make the rear wheel close to the equivalent overall diameter of a 19" wheel)
 
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I'll try the 1/4" plywood idea.
This bike requires a lot of effort to put it on the stand. The feet of the stand earlier than they should.
 
I run 18" rear on my 74 850...no big problems getting up on CS. There is a definite technique that works well....got to grab the bike with the right hand as low as practical before straightening the bent leg/foot on the CS peg, motion should be essentially straight up, not trying to drag it rearwards., and using the leg muscles and not the back or arm to drive bike vertically. If you are grabbing bike too high up in the frame, you will have much harder time.
 
-Buy a Norton commando 19" rear wheel off ebay for about $300.
-Buy lightweight wider aluminum rims and new spokes to outfit the bike with lighter rims and more modern tire shapes.
-Cut down the center stand legs
-swap the birkenstocks for actual man-shoes 🤣
 
It like anything new to you, you got to learn how to do things with each bike same as when jumping on a Norton for the first time you have to learn the knack of kick starting, gear changing, putting up on the CS, how to get that very long side stand out or in, everything has it's own technique of doing so, putting a bike up on a CS shouldn't be a task of hard work, if done right the bike should do most of the work if you have the technique down pat, but changing wheel height will make a change to the stock CS position.
I am a big leaner of my bikes into corners and have had CS (when my 850 was in Commando form) while cranking over hard scrape on the road and have once had it dig in and lift the rear wheel off the road while in a corner, scary stuff.
 
Yes the centre stand on an 850 anyway drags really easily. With 19 in wheels standard shocks and Dunlop TT100 tyres.

I cut the lever section off with an angle grinder. It's a bit difficult to hook the stand down but better than sliding across the road as it digs in.
 
A big leaner in corners. 🤣

Any ideas?


I took that pic. Photography was about as close as I ever got to road racing.

I sort of agree with Ash... could be a technique issue. My BMW R1100GS was a bit of work to get on the center stand. I know I couldn't have done it wearing Birkenstocks or barefoot.
 
A big leaner in corners. 🤣

Any ideas?


I took that pic. Photography was about as close as I ever got to road racing.

I sort of agree with Ash... could be a technique issue. My BMW R1100GS was a bit of work to get on the center stand. I know I couldn't have done it wearing Birkenstocks or barefoot.
Jorge Martin at a 59 degree lean angle, ON HIS SHOULDER! Those guys are aliens.
Any ideas?


As for the centerstand problem, a 110/90-18 Avon is very nearly the same diameter as a 100/90-19. A change of tire could make a big difference. I have found that most 120/90-18 tires are too wide and interfere with the chainguard, but a 110/90-18 cleared. I changed back to a 100/90-19 because it looked better and seemed to handle better.
 
Yes the centre stand on an 850 anyway drags really easily. With 19 in wheels standard shocks and Dunlop TT100 tyres.

I cut the lever section off with an angle grinder. It's a bit difficult to hook the stand down but better than sliding across the road as it digs in.

It wasn't the leaver that dug in it was the foot of the CS on the side I was leaning into the corner, when I converted my 850 to the Featherbed frame, I had no stands at all on the Featherbed conversion for over 20 years before putting a clamp on side stand, leaning the bike on whatever was handy, everything on my Featherbed is built up high so nothing touches anything while pushing it to its limits in corners, its built for tight twisty cornering.
 
It wasn't the leaver that dug in it was the foot of the CS on the side I was leaning into the corner, when I converted my 850 to the Featherbed frame, I had no stands at all on the Featherbed conversion for over 20 years before putting a clamp on side stand, leaning the bike on whatever was handy, everything on my Featherbed is built up high so nothing touches anything while pushing it to its limits in corners, its built for tight twisty cornering.
It was the bit circled in red that ground on my 850 Mk2. When I say ground I mean lifted the back wheel into the air. I couldn't grind the foot part. I think the foot peg and pipes would need to disappear for that to happen on my bike.
 

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There is an upside to longer shocks with softer springs. When you gas the motor the rear goes down, the rake on the front becomes more, and the bike is more likely to steer in the direction you want go as you accelerate out of corners (it increases the trail). On the T250 Suzuki racer I built , I cut the top shock mounts off the rear of the frame tipped them upside down and welded them back on the other sides of the frame. I got more ride height, more travel, because the shocks were laying down, and much better handling. Most two strokes do not oversteer if you gas them in mid-corner. If you do not know how to ride with a two-stroke peaky power-band, that sort of set-up can crash you . With a Commando, you should not have that problem.
 
It was the bit circled in red that ground on my 850 Mk2. When I say ground I mean lifted the back wheel into the air. I couldn't grind the foot part. I think the foot peg and pipes would need to disappear for that to happen on my bike.
If you're grounding that on the road then a) you are riding much faster than I am and b) you probably have rather less traffic than what I see here on our small island of Zealand :)
 
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