You should talk to Andy Molnar at TGA, or Bruce at TTi. I don't think they would agree with your doom and gloom scenario.
If you have wanted to have the forks flush with the top of the fork clamp there is a first class suspension guy near Renton who could do that work easily. He is the best with suspension and a few decades involved with racing. One thing he does quite often is lower off-road bikes for people.Did not start it, but primed the oil system, and made some other small things that are not seen.
As I said the pics are nothing special. Looks same as it ever was to me.
Note how far back the sliding disc is in the inner cover. That location is with the gearbox nearly touching the back of the timing chest. With the belt adjusted the mainshaft goes right through that hole. Shortest belt I could use was the 890mm. All in all a crazy fit. It does work however.
The shiny bumpy part is where I had to grind off a full circle around the sliding disc area and then extend it for the RGM clutch basket. Also did a fair share of grinding on the backside, but it is extra ugly back there.
I need to go over the fasteners before I ride it, but this is what the timing side looks like.
TTi gearbox in the house with kickstart and shift lever.
Not sure what I might do next with this bike. I'll get it on a dyno machine this summer. Don't care what opinions are about dyno machines. I just want to see a baseline from a guy that dynos primarily inline 4 race bikes that make a lot more HP than a Norton 750. I'm sure they'll get a kick out of the old thing. It always draws some attention.
For pure HP and tuning accuracy, I'm thinking maybe I need a GoPro and a dynohill of my own.
Stay frosty.
Usually when putting on a different and more modern set of forks the tubes are a bit longer and allow for adjustment up and down through the fork clamps. For me it's strictly an appearance thing...once the position is found then I want them flush with the top of the clamp.Didn't see that coming.
Even though it is a '67 P11 desert sled it's not much of an off road bike. P11 is a good bike on the street unless one is a wuss and can't man up with the vibration. I had a Commando and chose to keep the P11 because it handles better with me on it. With the 4LS on the front it stops better than that 70's something Commando ever did. Also has a lower seat height and weighs about 60lbs less than a stock Commando. I had the Commando in the mid-'80's. No brake kits or other upgrades with a click of the mouse. The web wasn't up and running yet.
I bought the long forks purposely. I can adjust the way the bike handles and they can be used for clip-ons above the top clamp providing a less annoying go fast riding position. Of course, I would have to come up with rear sets to go with clip-ons, but I am personally done with that riding position so have never imagineered rearsets. I have no plans to ever shorten the sanction tubes. If I wanted them shorter, I would have bought them shorter. I'm funny that way.
I figured it was your personal choice. Kind of an abrupt lane change, but it is Access Norton.
Hi Schwany,Didn't see that coming.
Even though it is a '67 P11 desert sled it's not much of an off road bike. P11 is a good bike on the street unless one is a wuss and can't man up with the vibration. I had a Commando and chose to keep the P11 because it handles better with me on it. With the 4LS on the front it stops better than that 70's something Commando ever did. Also has a lower seat height and weighs about 60lbs less than a stock Commando. I had the Commando in the mid-'80's. No brake kits or other upgrades with a click of the mouse. The web wasn't up and running yet.
I bought the long forks purposely. I can adjust the way the bike handles and they can be used for clip-ons above the top clamp providing a less annoying go fast riding position. Of course, I would have to come up with rear sets to go with clip-ons, but I am personally done with that riding position so have never imagineered rearsets. I have no plans to ever shorten the sanction tubes. If I wanted them shorter, I would have bought them shorter. I'm funny that way.
The brake is a 230mm Cafe Racer Suspension (CRS) Ceriani 4LS copy. CRS are more or less out of business now. Others that cater to the Manx and Euro vintage race crowd carry similar brakes. Probably a lot of them for sale used too, but I've never checked. Don Pender designs, has manufactured, and sells larger diameter 4LS brakes. Shipping from his location is pricey, but the brakes he sells are nice looking. I went with CRS to save some money at the time. Penny wise pound foolish. I often fall victim to my inner miser.
I gotta ask... Who are are you? I'm not that familiar with legends on Nortons.
OK I misinterpreted your comment. I thought you were saying the gearbox was not shifting correctly. It's definitely my bad feel for it. I thought I had it all figured out, but not so much for panic stops. Oops
I did read your question earlier, but don't have the weight numbers, and definitely no numbers for the magnesium shell version. I skipped that comparative weighing step entirely. I was going to do it, but totally forgot and started the imagineering install. It's been too long since handling the two gearboxes for me to even make a guess at which gearbox weighs more. Members here that race probably know the weights.
