Original and new oil junction block.

[Bonzo]

As I'm replacing the oil lines, I also took the precaution of getting a new oil junction block (064134) as I was finding a small leak around that area and suspected that I may have a fracture on the original. In hindsight I should have adopted the 'talcum powder' technique to pinpoint the leak.

Upon removal, I noticed that the gasket was slightly fouling the passageway, as I have seen other report.



It's obvious now, but it was also only when I removed the one that was on the bike that I realised how different the old vs new actually is.



The old one (top) certainly matches more faithfully what I see on the parts diagram (15), and as it seems in good condition, I've decided to clean the original, pop a new gasket behind it and refit it.

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I just wondered what the thinking was behind the slightly different newer design?

 

[L.A.B.]

It's obvious now, but it was also only when I removed the one that was on the bike that I realised how different the old vs new actually is.

I just wondered what the thinking was behind the slightly different newer design?

064124 064134 is the 850 Mk1A/Mk2A/Mk3 junction block redesigned due to the plastic 'A'/Mk3 airbox (RH intake 'horn').

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"06.4134
OIL PIPES JUNCTION BLOCK ASSY (Commando 850 2A & MK3)"
And Mk1A.

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"06.2206
OIL PIPES JUNCTION BLOCK ASSY (Commando 750/850 1970-73)"
And (some? All?) 850 Mk2.

Bonhams Cars : Former property of Eddie Lawson, 8 miles from new,1975 Norton 850cc Commando Roadster Frame no. 317998

Norton's popular Commando had a fulfilling if all too brief lifespan, during which it scooped Britain's prestigious MCN Machine of the Year five years running, spawned eight different styling variations, and won numerous international Sidecar Motocross Grand Prix. During its lifespan the...

www.bonhams.com

"Frame no. 317998"

 

[Bonzo]

Ahh, yes. That makes sense - and I think it's the first time that a part for my particular bike ('74 model Mk2) has been found listed, on the AN site, anywhere other than in the 'NORTON 850 - 1974 INCL. JPN & MK2A' section. I'll need to pay more attention to that in future.

Thanks very much Les

 

[L.A.B.]

Ahh, yes. That makes sense - and I think it's the first time that a part for my particular bike ('74 model Mk2) has been found listed, on the AN site, anywhere other than in the 'NORTON 850 - 1974 INCL. JPN & MK2A' section. I'll need to pay more attention to that in future.

Only the 064134 'A' junction block is listed in the Mk2/2A parts supplement but the straight 062206 apparently continued to be fitted to the Mk2 model.
Edit:
The replacement 064134 junction block I bought for my Mk3 (several years ago) also required some fettling before it would fit correctly as with the junction fitted onto the hollow case dowel, the bolt hole didn't quite line up.

 

[Jdub]

Fiddling my clutch cable between the oil lines made me wonder if the later block might have provided more or less wiggle room. I can see no way to get that cable on one side or the other though.

 

[MichaelB]

The later Mk 3 type rotate down and come across the top of the trans, giving a straighter tie in with the lines.
However, blocks access to adjust the trans on the Mk 1 and 2's.

Notice how the lines rotate up on his Mk2 to give more access to the trans adjuster.

 

[L.A.B.]

Fiddling my clutch cable between the oil lines made me wonder if the later block might have provided more or less wiggle room.

A little less maybe, in my opinion, but not much.

I can see no way to get that cable on one side or the other though.

I'm confident that the clutch cable goes between the oil lines regardless of the junction block type.

Clutch Cable Routing

Hi gents All the photos i see show the clutch cable routing from the gearbox cover plate forward of the rear iso tube... But my cable wants to exit behind the tube as making it exit forward is putting quite a "kink" into it I know i have a odd machine, but even with a worn primary chain, is the...

www.accessnorton.com

 

[Elfix]

Your front tire looks a bit low

 

[Bonzo]

A little less maybe, in my opinion, but not much.




I'm confident that the clutch cable goes between the oil lines regardless of the junction block type.

Clutch Cable Routing

Hi gents All the photos i see show the clutch cable routing from the gearbox cover plate forward of the rear iso tube... But my cable wants to exit behind the tube as making it exit forward is putting quite a "kink" into it I know i have a odd machine, but even with a worn primary chain, is the...

www.accessnorton.com

Hah! I installed both oil lines in front of the clutch cable and thought it looked ok, and then checked on my phone (I'd be lost without photographing everything before), only to find that the cable was in between the pipes before, so switched it back

*EDIT* Please disregard the ramblings above as I am clearly cracking up! The reverse is correct. I'd installed the oil lines either side of the cable, and then switched them back to how they originally were (both in front), Think I need a lie down



Quite a fiddly job routing those pipes to be honest and it took me longer than I thought it would have (usual).

Fitted the Kegler-non-Kegler clamps (after spraying them satin black) and blocked off the chain/bike/leg oiler too with a side stand bung.

I also moved the earth from beneath the Zener, as per eagle eye LAB's observation over on the WDYDTYCT? thread

 

[baz]

Hah! I installed both oil lines in front of the clutch cable and thought it looked ok, and then checked on my phone (I'd be lost without photographing everything before), only to find that the cable was in between the pipes before, so switched it back

*EDIT* Please disregard the ramblings above as I am clearly cracking up! The reverse is correct. I'd installed the oil lines either side of the cable, and then switched them back to how they originally were (both in front), Think I need a lie down



Quite a fiddly job routing those pipes to be honest and it took me longer than I thought it would have (usual).

Fitted the Kegler-non-Kegler clamps (after spraying them satin black) and blocked off the chain/bike/leg oiler too with a side stand bung.

I also moved the earth from beneath the Zener, as per eagle eye LAB's observation over on the WDYDTYCT? thread

Did the Kegler type clamps work? I assume they have no centre bolts ?

 

[Bonzo]

That's right baz, no centre bolts, so no drilling.

I'll get back to you about any change in the ride, though the swing arm has no discernable lateral play, so it may turn out to be a preventative upgrade

 

[Fast Eddie]

… so it may turn out to be a preventative upgrade

They’re the best kind !

 

[YING]

Hah! I installed both oil lines in front of the clutch cable and thought it looked ok, and then checked on my phone (I'd be lost without photographing everything before), only to find that the cable was in between the pipes before, so switched it back

*EDIT* Please disregard the ramblings above as I am clearly cracking up! The reverse is correct. I'd installed the oil lines either side of the cable, and then switched them back to how they originally were (both in front), Think I need a lie down



Quite a fiddly job routing those pipes to be honest and it took me longer than I thought it would have (usual).

Fitted the Kegler-non-Kegler clamps (after spraying them satin black) and blocked off the chain/bike/leg oiler too with a side stand bung.

I also moved the earth from beneath the Zener, as per eagle eye LAB's observation over on the WDYDTYCT? thread

Bonzo,
I like the rubber cap you put over the crimped line on the oil tank. I am going to find one!
Mike

 

[Bonzo]

Bonzo,
I like the rubber cap you put over the crimped line on the oil tank. I am going to find one!
Mike

You mean to block the chain oiler?

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Motorcycle parts and spares for Andover Norton motorbikes: Andover Norton manufactures and supplies all Factory Spare Parts for Norton motorcycles built before 2002.

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I don't actually know if it works yet as I haven't ridden the bike since, but it was a tight fit, so should do the job

 

[KiwiShane]

Bonzo,
I like the rubber cap you put over the crimped line on the oil tank. I am going to find one!
Mike

The steel oil tube that branches of the tanks return oil pipe for the chain oiler sits hard up against the back of the guard....(bung might be to big...just a thought)...but while the back guard is off I'd block/squash it ...and braze it up...with a small piece of alloy plate with a hole in it to slip over the pipe as a heat shield...while using the torch ...never ta haunt you again

 

[Bonzo]

The steel oil tube that branches of the tanks return oil pipe for the chain oiler sits hard up against the back of the guard....(bung might be to big...just a thought)...but while the back guard is off I'd block/squash it ...and braze it up...with a small piece of alloy plate with a hole in it to slip over the pipe as a heat shield...while using the torch ...never ta haunt you again

Hah, you're right Shane, I just fitted the mudguard and it just touches. Not causing any distortion to the guard, but I think I'm just gonna trim a bit off the edge with a Stanley blade for now

 

[baz]

Most chain oiler pipes I've seen have been squashed flat and bent over

 

[KiwiShane]

Most chain oiler pipes I've seen have been squashed flat and bent over

Thats effective & reminds me of some plumbing I've done

 

[daveforty]

I have a short piece of rubber hose over the stub, with a suitable sized bolt in the 'free' end. All held in place by a couple of jubilee clips. Works well enough without any engineering work required.

 

[Bonzo]

As a few of us say on this forum.

It's not pretty, but neither am I.