Oil Tank Banjo Torque?

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Tornado

Tornado

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Could not find a torque spec for the oil tank banjo strainer bolt on my 850 Commando. I've got about 8 ft-lbs on it but trying to pin down some oil seep down the feed hose. The jubilee clamp on hose spigot is as tight as I can get it but still leaving a puddle below overnight. Thought it was SA spindle oil as it has been recently filled, but seems to keep puddling each night for a week now.
 
Could be the old crack in the oil tank trick, very common and well known, my oil tank was still on warranty when it leaked from a hairline crack way back in 76 with less than 5k on the speedo, and was the last time my Norton ever went back to the dealers for work.

Ashley
 
With new aluminum washers, I tighten it until snug then about 1/4 turn more. Then I watch it for a couple of days - if it weeps, I tighten a little and watch again. Over tightening can easily make it leak.
 
BERT said:
Should aluminum crush washers be annealed?
Click to expand...
I don't but I do use new each time. Annealing AL is not quick and easy like copper and the washers I've bought from AN are plenty soft enough to suit me.
 
BERT said:
Should aluminum crush washers be annealed?
Click to expand...
No need.

Its a big surface and a big thread. So long as the surfaces are un damaged the stock washers are fine. I’ve re used them before and they’re still fine.
 
Increasingly I have been replacing copper and aluminium washers on my various old bikes with dowty type. Less torque needed and no leaks.
 
As we all know, leaking/weeping oil has a propensity to travel sideways, backwards, forwards and even upwards to conceal it's place of origin :-)
I had an annoying drip from the rear of the oil tank which turned out to be due to the sealing surface of the drain bolt not being totally flat. Each 'corner' had a distinct raised point, but after dressing with a fine file, no more leaking.....
 
Fast Eddie said:
No need.

Its a big surface and a big thread. So long as the surfaces are un damaged the stock washers are fine. I’ve re used them before and they’re still fine.
Click to expand...
Nigel, while re-using the aluminum sealing washers has worked for you, it's not recommended. Both aluminum and copper washers "crush" slightly when torque is applied. This work hardens the metal, which will prevent the metal from crushing a second time. Both metals can be annealed, which softens them up, allowing their re-use. However, it is difficult to successfully anneal aluminum, as there is no visible change in the color of the aluminum once you've gotten it hot enough to anneal. Most attempts result in melting the aluminum. Annealing copper is easy. You heat it red hot and drop the glowing metal into cold water.
 
chaztuna said:
Nigel, while re-using the aluminum sealing washers has worked for you, it's not recommended. Both aluminum and copper washers "crush" slightly when torque is applied. This work hardens the metal, which will prevent the metal from crushing a second time. Both metals can be annealed, which softens them up, allowing their re-use. However, it is difficult to successfully anneal aluminum, as there is no visible change in the color of the aluminum once you've gotten it hot enough to anneal. Most attempts result in melting the aluminum. Annealing copper is easy. You heat it red hot and drop the glowing metal into cold water.
Click to expand...
I know it’s not recommended (and I did not recommend it).

And I know all about the supposed benefits of annealing (annealing has a place, but often it’s not actually needed and the result is simply a softer joint, more crush, more re torqueing required).

And I know Dowty Seals are better (these work very well, and are re usable).

Etc.

But…

The purpose of my post was simply to point out that the stock washers actually work fine. They work fine out of the packet, without annealing. And they even work fine when (shock horror) some Neanderthal re uses them. So they’re not really a problem in need of a solution.
 
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My tank currently has copper washers, new when I last fitted but tank has been off/flushed out by the workshop and i've no idea if they removed the banjo, fitted fresh, used old/unannealed washers.

Will have to wait for next oil change so I can take tank out for further elucidation.
 
My last set of aluminium washers failed, they slipped sideways and developed a step from where they leaked, hence my use of Dowty washers, which were 50p each.
 
Gave the feed banjo a wee bit more of a snug and also found the return hose clamp quite loose on the tank spigot. That should not have lead to oil dribble while standing b/c spigot connects well above oil level within tank. After leaving a few days seems no more puddles. Out riding now so keeping fingers crossed.
 
My oil tank leak turned out to be the filler cap. The oil seemed to vanish and reappear lower down. The dripping in the garage was the bike self cleaning after each ride.

But, which oil leaks best? :rolleyes:
 
Mart UK said:
My oil tank leak turned out to be the filler cap. The oil seemed to vanish and reappear lower down. The dripping in the garage was the bike self cleaning after each ride.

But, which oil leaks best? :rolleyes:
Click to expand...
Lower viscosity, more leaks. Penetrating oil leaks best.
 
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