Boosting procedure

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What is the safest way to boost from a car battery a Norton with electric start and stock positive ground. ?
I ask after running lights and 2 electric vests at night. In the morning battery was weak and I was offered a boost.
Also I'm going to buy a small trickle charger in case this happens again to plug in overnight. I'm thinking of using the electric vest plug which leads to the battery. How would I wire it so that polarity is correct ? Thanks.
 
The trickle charger will be agnostic with regards to which polarity is ground - just wire positive to positive and negative to negative.

Most trickle chargers are reverse polarity protected (worth reading the instructions...), so if you do accidentally wire it backwards, it will give you a warning (like a red flashing light, etc.)

Same goes with boosting from a car - always positive to positive, negative to negative. I typically connect the battery to be boosted first, then connect it to the vehicle doing the posting, connecting the negative terminal last.

HTH
 
Worth while , forgetting trickle and getting modern battery maintainer , keep your bike on it anytime bike sitting , they have a chip that cycles through desulfication when needed , won’t over charge , etc … my AGM batteries last for years with this program , have one for every bike …also if you plan on putting that much draw on bikes elec. system you may want to upgrade to 3 phase system for peace of mind , the old bikes were not built with modern comforts in mind , back in the day ….
 
Your question was about how to "boost" the battery.
You probably want to find out why the battery was low the next morning.
If you have a stock charging system, even in good shape, it might not support an electronic ignition, lights, and two electric vests.
 
Worth while , forgetting trickle and getting modern battery maintainer , keep your bike on it anytime bike sitting , they have a chip that cycles through desulfication when needed , won’t over charge , etc … my AGM batteries last for years with this program , have one for every bike …also if you plan on putting that much draw on bikes elec. system you may want to upgrade to 3 phase system for peace of mind , the old bikes were not built with modern comforts in mind , back in the day ….
MK 111. RM 23.
 
Your question was about how to "boost" the battery.
You probably want to find out why the battery was low the next morning.
If you have a stock charging system, even in good shape, it might not support an electronic ignition, lights, and two electric vests.
Stop and go traffic lights 1 hr. to home destination for the evening in dark rain. Bike is fine today , started right up leaving all lights off. Battery 8 months old. Voltmeter test 12. 4 solid.
 
This is the first time I’ve heard a difference between Canadian English and American English. “Boost” is what we call jumping AKA “jump start”. Boosting a battery means it has been stolen. Not a criticism, just observation.
My buddy in Ajax (weightlifter ) clutch in , his push start in 2 nd. gear . He loved that. Got his wife to hold open throttle to 3,000 rpm. , whilst I fitted the helmet and earplugs for the final push through aggressive 401 drivers in Toronto. Lights off.
 
Just tested this the other day
MKIII
PC 625 AGM battery
3 phase Podtronics
LED lights
Boyer MK4
With 1 Gerbring heated jacket liner 3,000 RPM’s is what I need to get a charging voltage (around 13.6v) , at idle it will just get over 12v
Packing a charger and extension cord will help when parked. I think prolonged low speed driving will eventually deplete your battery, or at least put you in a no run condition.
I have a NOCO GB70 jump pack that will start almost anything.
I think the GB40 with the jumper wire harness will easily get you started, and quite possibly work as a secondary battery while driving. I have never tested that so can not vouch for the safety factor.
Pete
 
This one would not push start in any gear….too much compression and 19T counter sprocket. Circa 1973, a ‘72 combat roadster.
Boosting procedure
 
For running accessories, could one wire 2 lithium batteries in parallel for the storage capacity ?
 
The last time I used a heated vest on my Norton, at night, with a Boyer, it ran like shit under 3500 rpm. I had to keep the revs up so it wouldn't die, got pulled over by the cops, and almost had my bike impounded for going 50 mph in a 25 mph zone. Apparently twice the posted speed is extra bad....
Personally, I wouldn't use a heated vest at night unless a three phase alternator was installed.
Two heated vests? You'd need to run the numbers.
 
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For running accessories, could one wire 2 lithium batteries in parallel for the storage capacity ?
What's that going to accomplish except having 2 lithium batteries not being sufficiently charged. Either upgrade the
charging system and ride above 3000 rpm, or put on a battery tender after each ride. Come on folks, these are
vintage machines. You can't expect them to keep up with vest warmers, etc.
 
What's that going to accomplish except having 2 lithium batteries not being sufficiently charged. Either upgrade the
charging system and ride above 3000 rpm, or put on a battery tender after each ride. Come on folks, these are
vintage machines. You can't expect them to keep up with vest warmers, etc.
So how do you get more juice out of a Mk 111 with stock RM 23 alternator ?
Podtronics , Newer battery , solid connections. Holding at 24 V. test.
End of season soon , we need our vests.
 
The Lucas RM 23 is rated at 180 watts. With EL, Halogen headlight/taillight demand is about 120/130 watts. Your battery will soak up a number of watts (can't say). Let's say that demand is about 150/160; others may be able to refine these numbers.

Heated vests, based on a quick search use somewhere in the neighborhood of 50 to 70 watts.

Based on my arguable numbers it would appear that demand is somewhere between 170 and 200. If you use a lot of brake you can add (halogen) 35 watts, when you queue the directionals the demand for 2 bulbs and the bi-metal blinker box can be as high as 90 watts/side.

It appears that your charging system is losing the battle.

So get a 220 watt charging system or greater. The bad news is that during your short summer with no vest your reg/rec may not hold up for long.

Solution: get a maximum 3 phase alternator and team it with either a Shindigen or a TriSpark MOSFET reg/rec; you will sleep much better...

Best.
 
This is the first time I’ve heard a difference between Canadian English and American English. “Boost” is what we call jumping AKA “jump start”. Boosting a battery means it has been stolen. Not a criticism, just observation.
First time hearing differences to how us Canucks communicate, Eh? Schedule much? How about colours or ever had candy floss? Heck we even do dates differently (today is 27/09/21, not 9/27/21). Don't get me started on the metric system ;-)
 
What is the safest way to boost from a car battery a Norton with electric start and stock positive ground. ?
I ask after running lights and 2 electric vests at night. In the morning battery was weak and I was offered a boost.
Also I'm going to buy a small trickle charger in case this happens again to plug in overnight. I'm thinking of using the electric vest plug which leads to the battery. How would I wire it so that polarity is correct ? Thanks.
First, if you're draining the battery while riding you must reduce consumption and or increase generation. LED lighting helps reduce consumption. So does prudent use of your creature comfort vests. Try one on, one off for short periods at a time.

Higher output alt needed if you insist on continuously being toasty.

For boosting a positive earth bike, just hook up jumpers positive to positive, negative to negative. But why not use your kickstarter? Do you still have the 2 MC capacitor on the bike? Should be possible to fire it up with dead battery on kicker, even with EI (my Wassell EI started off the capacitor after my zener bloated the battery one day).
 
First, if you're draining the battery while riding you must reduce consumption and or increase generation. LED lighting helps reduce consumption. So does prudent use of your creature comfort vests. Try one on, one off for short periods at a time.

Higher output alt needed if you insist on continuously being toasty.

For boosting a positive earth bike, just hook up jumpers positive to positive, negative to negative. But why not use your kickstarter? Do you still have the 2 MC capacitor on the bike? Should be possible to fire it up with dead battery on kicker, even with EI (my Wassell EI started off the capacitor after my zener bloated the battery one day).
PS if setting up a trickle or maintenance charger, be careful if it has an SAE type connector with an exposed negative contact. If that touches the bike frame etc you'll see sparks.
 
First, if you're draining the battery while riding you must reduce consumption and or increase generation. LED lighting helps reduce consumption. So does prudent use of your creature comfort vests. Try one on, one off for short periods at a time.

Higher output alt needed if you insist on continuously being toasty.

For boosting a positive earth bike, just hook up jumpers positive to positive, negative to negative. But why not use your kickstarter? Do you still have the 2 MC capacitor on the bike? Should be possible to fire it up with dead battery on kicker, even with EI (my Wassell EI started off the capacitor after my zener bloated the battery one day).
I've struck a deal with my wife to never kick start a Norton again. She nursed me for a year. I owe her big time. So all my money now goes into the electric start situation. I'm 63 and kicking is now over.
LED lights all over the bike , Podtronics , RM 23 , newer battery , but I fear 2 vests are sucking a lot of power , but grateful for them on the cold dark ride home.
 
I've struck a deal with my wife to never kick start a Norton again. She nursed me for a year. I owe her big time. So all my money now goes into the electric start situation. I'm 63 and kicking is now over.
LED lights all over the bike , Podtronics , RM 23 , newer battery , but I fear 2 vests are sucking a lot of power , but grateful for them on the cold dark ride home.
I see. Well if in doubt of having enough power to start, you could carry a jump start battery pack. I take on with my modern Bonneville when going far from home. It has got her fired up on cold mornings when the bikes computer prevents starter from operating when it feels the volts are just not enough. The jumper pack is about the size of a small paperback and has clamping jaw leads with polarity protection etc. Ran me about $100 at a local parts store.
 
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