Painting Barrel In Situ

[swooshdave]

So one of the things I wanted to do this wi yet was tidy up the barrel. The paint is peeling and it’s getting rusty.

I’m sure some of y’all have done this before, any tips? So far I’ve been using bore bristle brushes and those work great between the fins. And some really course steel wool. That’s knocked down the really ugly stuff.

I’m not going for concours, more to protect and remove some of the unsightliness.

Some of the nuts aren’t looking great but I’ll deal with them later.

I painted the barrel on the other bike (off the bike) and it’s holding up well although it has nowhere near the miles this one does.

 

[gortnipper]

Rustoleum.. It turns the rust into something else.

 

[swooshdave]

Rustoleum.. It turns the rust into something else.

Yes, definitely going to use something like that.

 

[jan nelder]

Yes, definitely going to use something like that.

but first, rust convertor chemical!!

 

[SteveC]

I am also planning to do this job over the winter.
I am planning to use a black high temperature paint, but still deciding on best rust treatment.
This page is worth a read.

Rust Converter Vs. Rust Encapsulator - Frost Auto Restoration Techniques

Rust products might be the most confusing as far as when to use them and which one is correct for your rust situation. We offer both rust encapsulator and rust converter for DIY automotive restorations. The question isn’t “do rust converters and encapsulators work?” Both are very effective at...

www.frost.co.uk

 

[kommando]

Phosphoric acid 5% sprayed on to the barrel will convert any remaining rust into Iron Phosphate and in rust free areas the top layer of iron also to Iron Phosphate. Most of the rust converters are based on this chemical reaction.

 

[bsaboss]

The bore bristle brush in the picture looks to have steel bristles. I can only find nylon or bronze ones on eBay. Could I ask where you buy the steel ones, as they do look perfect for the job?

 

[Mark Savage]

I used Rust-oleum Hard Hat 750° C rattle can spray on my barrels a couple of years ago and it's still ok.

 

[maylar]

It's not clean enough for paint yet. POR 15 Metal Ready or Evaporust will get the remaining rust off.
Do you have an air brush? Less masking than with a rattle can and better results than a brush.

 

[Schwany]

Kind of between a rock and a hard place.

Given how easy it is to remove the head in a Commando frame, you would be better off pulling the barrels, but you already know that.

I painted my barrels a long time ago. Probably some kind of automotive engine paint. If I were to do it again today, I would use Black Rust-oleum disc brake caliper paint. It resists any chemical typically associated with motor vehicles, and it's good to 900F degrees. Engine paint does not resist brake fluid as well.

 

[worntorn]

Shwany I hate to be such a disagreeable so and so all of the time, but I sure wouldn't take an engine top end apart just for cylinder painting. You are likely thinking that a better paint job can be had by removing the cylinder. This is true, but I don't think it's worth the trouble! We might be on a different levels with our cosmetic expectations
Yes the head comes off easily, but it doesn't go back on all that easily and head gasket leaks are a common problem on Commandos. My thought is, if it's sealed up, leave it on there!
Each time you torque things up there's the risk of those wimpy threads letting go, or if already pooched, the helicoils letting go
Then there's lifting the barrel and losing the ring to bore seating- you want to avoid that.
About five years ago, I painted my barrel in the same way Dave is proceeding. It might have taken an hour tops and it still looks good. That was with a spray bomb of VHT gloss black high heat caliper paint.

I like the way Jim paints a tatty frame.
Gets it looking good and back on the road without tearing the bike to bits. I'm sure he can tear it to bits and then put it together a lot faster than I can, but not as fast as this

tires again

Well just like clockwork. The Avon Cobra is at 6500 miles and it's toast. Unfortunately it's has been the only tire I have used so far that I got decent mileage from and still handled OK. And now it has been discontinued and there are no more to be found. Anybody tried a Heidenau K65. I have a...

www.accessnorton.com

 

[jbruney]

I painted mine with high heat semi gloss in the early 80's, prior to storage, and only recently cleaned & repainted with the same Krylon because I felt a need to refresh things.... Have not pulled anything off... Let sleeping dogs lie if they're not biting or barking.

 

[MikeG]

I cleaned mine like this with a soda blaster then painted

 

[Fast Eddie]

Shwany I hate to be such a disagreeable so and so all of the time, but I sure wouldn't take an engine top end apart just for cylinder painting. You are likely thinking that a better paint job can be had by removing the cylinder. This is true, but I don't think it's worth the trouble! We might be on a different levels with our cosmetic expectations
Yes the head comes off easily, but it doesn't go back on all that easily and head gasket leaks are a common problem on Commandos. My thought is, if it's sealed up, leave it on there!
Each time you torque things up there's the risk of those wimpy threads letting go, or if already pooched, the helicoils letting go
Then there's lifting the barrel and losing the ring to bore seating- you want to avoid that.
About five years ago, I painted my barrel in the same way Dave is proceeding. It might have taken an hour tops and it still looks good. That was with a spray bomb of VHT gloss black high heat caliper paint.

I like the way Jim paints a tatty frame.
Gets it looking good and back on the road without tearing the bike to bits. I'm sure he can tear it to bits and then put it together a lot faster than I can, but not as fast as this

tires again

Well just like clockwork. The Avon Cobra is at 6500 miles and it's toast. Unfortunately it's has been the only tire I have used so far that I got decent mileage from and still handled OK. And now it has been discontinued and there are no more to be found. Anybody tried a Heidenau K65. I have a...

www.accessnorton.com

+1 Glen. You’d have to be a hard core sadomasochist to strip the top end of a Commando just to paint the barrels !

 

[Fast Eddie]

IMHO gloss accentuates the imperfections of old barrels. I use a satin brush on paint, it seems crap when you open the tin cos it’s like water. But it’s easy to apply, brush strokes disappear, its long lasting, easy to touch up / re apply, and hides a multitude of sins !

 

[Schwany]

Shwany I hate to be such a disagreeable so and so all of the time, but I sure wouldn't take an engine top end apart just for cylinder painting. You are likely thinking that a better paint job can be had by removing the cylinder. This is true, but I don't think it's worth the trouble! We might be on a different levels with our cosmetic expectations

I am but a ripple on the sea of opinions. Dave wasn't ever going to take the barrels off. This I knew.

I've had the joy of messing the threads up and putting in inserts during a rebuild. Didn't happen until the second rebuild of the motor. I only have the one Norton, but I've been dragging it around with me for 48 years. Torque values are so low it's hard to believe the metal gives up like it does. I wish I could remember how easy it was to screw it up. I was thinking about one more rebuild before the dirt nap, but maybe not now that you reminded me of how soft that metal is. Damn Norton.

 

[Craig]

First time I used flat stove black stuff ( polish maybe?) , lasted longer than I thought , done with engine on bench, frame stripped and painted then too , this last time done in-situ with spray bomb gloss black header paint ..... I did a serious cleaning removing as much of existing black as possible then spent most of an afternoon cleaning and masking out anything and everything I could hit with overspray .... that was 2009 has lasted well in most places , there are a couple of chips in paint now but ... impressed me that a relatively quick job has lasted so long and well ....

 

[MichaelB]

Recently I noticed these barrells have been painted in place.
Not perfect, but 'rider' respectable.
Not sure of the process, I got it like this. I only cleaned it up.

 

[texasSlick]

IMHO gloss accentuates the imperfections of old barrels. I use a satin brush on paint, it seems crap when yiu open the tim’s cos it’s like water. But it’s easy to apply, brush strokes disappear, its long lasting, easy to touch up / re apply, and hides a multitude of sins !

Not only all the above, but flat black radiates more heat than gloss. OK, not much more, but still more ....

I used gloss black on the fin edges, to gain a little pizzazz. The edges do not contribute much to heat transfer.

Regarding rust removal:

All the phosphoric acid based rust removers/converters generally require soaking for hours. If the OP goes that route, be prepared to brush it on, wait, and repeat.

MikeG's soda blast method seems best, but soda blasters are not in everyone's toolbox. Available from tool rental shops?

Slick

 

[Fast Eddie]

For me, the biggest ‘sin’ is to not protect your nuts

The hexagon nuts on the barrel flange I mean...

Painted over nuts just yells BOTCH to me.