Norton Electrical Upgrade

Status
Not open for further replies.
MexicoMike said:
Yes, the points/AAU require regular maintenance to perform at optimum level. But all it takes to keep the points/AAU working correctly is that occasional maintenance/lubrication.
Click to expand...

The AAU is metal on metal; a metal pin inside the slot of the weights. I was VERY anal about maintaining my bike when I bought it new and no amount of regular maintenance will prevent wear on those parts.
 
maylar said:
The AAU is metal on metal; a metal pin inside the slot of the weights. I was VERY anal about maintaining my bike when I bought it new and no amount of regular maintenance will prevent wear on those parts.
Click to expand...

Frankly, I didn't have any problems with my '71 back in the day - just did periodic greasing of the slots whenever I did the periodic tune up. But I certainly can't argue with folks that did the periodic maintenance and had trouble. ;) Hmmm, I wonder if there were variations of hardness in the advance weights during the production period?
 
EI is a wonderful invention
Poke's put the Boyer on the MK3 back in the 80s. PO never touched it and neither have I, other than to tidy up Poke's wiring.

Bike always starts and runs the same.
Boyer might not be the best EI but it has been an upgrade to points on that bike. I don't hate points, they can do the job.
Thanks to Jerry, I carry a complete spare Boyer, which isn't much to carry at all.
I have Pazon Smartfire on another bike, no issues there either. That is the brand mentioned by the OP. From my reading of this forum and others, it's one of the best.
I've posted this before, but check out the idle with bad old Boyer (34 years old)

Glen

 
Last edited:
maylar said:
The AAU is metal on metal; a metal pin inside the slot of the weights. I was VERY anal about maintaining my bike when I bought it new and no amount of regular maintenance will prevent wear on those parts.
Click to expand...

PTFE bushes wasn't invented at the time. Now you can make the AAU last, if you so wish. ;-)

-Knut
 
Fast Eddie said:
Is it possible to buy high quality AAU / points components these days ?
Click to expand...

Points and condensers yes; AAU units not that I am aware of. However, there are plenty of used ones out there which can be reconditioned and improved upon. A small side business for someone? I know new AAUs are available for HD.

-Knut
 
I have heard that points are much lower quality than they were back in the day - don't last nearly as long. I removed a troublesome Boyer, put the OEM ignition back on the back shortly after buying my Norton in '06 and ran the points for 2 years without what I would have considered abnormal wear. At the time I had no intention of installing an EI but the TS interested me when it came out so I bought one in 08. I haven't purchased any conventional ignition parts since then so no idea about the current quality of ignition points.

FWIW, many current aftermarket high performance auto distributers use the same type of AAU they (and Norton) did back in the day. In the modern version the ignition is electronic but the advance curve is determined by the springs/weights .
 
MexicoMike said:
Frankly, I didn't have any problems with my '71 back in the day - just did periodic greasing of the slots whenever I did the periodic tune up. But I certainly can't argue with folks that did the periodic maintenance and had trouble. ;) Hmmm, I wonder if there were variations of hardness in the advance weights during the production period?
Click to expand...

Aau weights were cast iron I believe, but I am thinking of the mag type ingition.
 
Fast Eddie said:
Is it possible to buy high quality AAU / points components these days ?
Click to expand...

Just the breakers and springs. The mounting plate and AAU assembly aren't listed anywhere. I still have mine, including the "upgraded" mounting plate (MKIII?) that had better adjust ability. I fondle them once in a while when I'm in that box of old parts. The AAU slots are noticeably worn though I can't remember them ever actually getting stuck.

It's the 2500 mile maintenance that finally got to me. Points get pitted and high resistance there lowers the coil current and spark energy. The rubbing block wears which reduces the gap and changes timing. I will confess though to having carried the whole mess with me for a while after fitting a Boyer, just in case.
 
maylar said:
Just the breakers and springs. The mounting plate and AAU assembly aren't listed anywhere. I still have mine, including the "upgraded" mounting plate (MKIII?) that had better adjust ability. I fondle them once in a while when I'm in that box of old parts. The AAU slots are noticeably worn though I can't remember them ever actually getting stuck.

It's the 2500 mile maintenance that finally got to me. Points get pitted and high resistance there lowers the coil current and spark energy. The rubbing block wears which reduces the gap and changes timing. I will confess though to having carried the whole mess with me for a while after fitting a Boyer, just in case.
Click to expand...

AAU is listed on Andover's Mk3 Page (Does it fit earlier?)
 
Actually Boyer (and others) make a "Points assisted" Inductive discharge ignition, so you can keep your standard advance curve. The current through the points is vastly reduced and hence they last a lot longer.

http://www.boyerbransden.com/IDunits.html

I presume you would need one for each set of points though?

Cheers,

cliffa.
 
Yorkie said:
I am working my way through a '74 Interstate restoration and I would like to make sure that the electrics are reliable. I have purchased a new wiring harness but the reason for this post is to ask the mind-share as to what other upgrades should I look at. I am thinking of using the Pazon Sure-Fire ignition system but are there any other parts I should upgrade such as coils, stator, etc? Thank you in advance.
Click to expand...
So, meanwhile back at the original question ;)

Good ground connections (or return paths to the battery if you like), especially to the engine.

Ditch the orginal Lucas style bullet & tube connectors and purchase a good quality crimping tool such as this ( which is the best I've ever used) the Knipex 97 21 215 B. It's the second one down here https://www.knipex.com/index.php?id=1216&L=1&page=group_detail&parentID=1299&groupID=1318

and then get Japanese style 3,9mm bullet connectors e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Japanese...hash=item4685093e0a:m:myuq5ErXG7RnagRsGy6PKbg

They have four advantages. Only one contact inside, a clear boot so you can see any issues, they are slightly more compact, but the main advantage - you can pull them apart easily and you don't need a pair of pliers to re-insert them. hence no bleeding knuckles or trying to reconnect pulled off bullets.


Cheers,

cliffa.
 
cliffa said:
Ditch the orginal Lucas style bullet & tube connectors and purchase a good quality crimping tool such as this ( which is the best I've ever used) the Knipex 97 21 215 B. It's the second one down here https://www.knipex.com/index.php?id=1216&L=1&page=group_detail&parentID=1299&groupID=1318

and then get Japanese style 3,9mm bullet connectors e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Japanese...hash=item4685093e0a:m:myuq5ErXG7RnagRsGy6PKbg
Click to expand...

OK if you're refurbing old wiring but he said he bought a new harness.
 
EstuaryBoy said:
AAU is listed on Andover's Mk3 Page (Does it fit earlier?)
Click to expand...

maylar said:
Thanks. Yeah, I wonder if it's different than earlier versions.
Click to expand...

AAU is interchangeable except for 20M3 (opposite rotation). Edit:
And the Lucas part number 54419344 quoted by AN is for the earlier AAU.

The later AAU (in the AN photo) was introduced during 1973 (with the 10CA points assembly) was 54425656 then later, 54426429.
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

Yorkie
  • Locked
850 Electrical upgrades
Replies
13
Views
3,784
850commando
850commando
R
  • Locked
Lucas Norton electrical data sheets
Replies
1
Views
791
Hobot
Hobot
Back
Top